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A 3.5L M35 would be great, but if your only other option is an NA 2.5 litre wagon I think you'd be better off putting some money into a commodore's suspension and drivetrain setup.

When you say you read a suite of gauges, do you mean aftermarket ones you've installed? If so, then you need to check the ECU's sensor values via a consult cable. Eg, if the coolant temp was reading something anomalous like -15 degrees, it would run a very rich cranking and post start enrichment. It would be very hard to start and it would blow lots of soot. Purely a guess though...that's why you need to see what values the ECU is reading.

Cool, that just leaves the question of the BSC1251 AC Delco coils being worth the effort to install over a set of yellow jackets. Even if theyre the chinese version, I believe they are still regarded as an OEM replacement by AC Delco?

Yes, one side of the relay power circuit is powered by the battery when the key is in the on position. When the relay activates, the power is earthed through the compressor and it turns on the magnetic clutch. Since that worked manually it seems that circuit is fine. The relay coil always receives 12v when the key is in the on position, then the ECU grounds that circuits when it wants to switch the A/C relay on. That is the other main one to check. Have a look on top of the relay for a diagram of which one is the relay coil pins. Unplug the relay and ensure that one of the relay coil pins is reading battery voltage, otherwise that circuit probably has a blown fuse (or worse). The relay coil fuse will be the one I mentioned near the drivers knee compartment. If you do have battery voltage to one side of the coil, try manually earthing the other side of the coil (with a little jumper wire or similar while the relay is plugged in). That should also activate the relay and turn on the A/C. If that is the case then the issue is closer to the ECU.

Dont forget there is also a fuse in the drivers side coin tray area which supplies power to the relay coil, as well as a few other things like vct, o2 sensor, and idle.

How did you check the relay? If you tested the relay itself while removed from the fuse box, and its functioning correctly, probe the pins on the relay harness to earth and measure the voltage. With the relay coil, one side should supply 12v power, while the other side is earthed to the ECU when the ECU wants to switch on the compressor. The power circuit on the relay should have 12v when the key is switched on, and the other side is earthed through the compressor. Post up the results and that should narrow it down.

I'm weighing up this mod vs a set of yellow jackets for a sub 15psi setup. So far in terms of cost it would be slightly less but still similar to a set of yellow jackets. Would be nice to run a 1.1 mm plug gap This is looking at a set of ACDelco D585 coils with the BSC1251 part number, plus a full set of suitable connectors and wire etc. Are the BSC1251 items to be avoided if you're not chasing high boost, or would it be no better than chucking yellow jackets in and calling it a day? Lastly, I would want to make a coil on plug setup which still fits in the valley. I notice in this thread that the pictures are of engines with forward facing plenums, therefore they do not have to consider clearance between the coil setup and the crossover pipe. Will the d585 coils still fit?

Z31, exa turbo, pulsar et. The era of ugly. Dont know why you would bother with a car yard at that price range however.

Thanks, I guess the old fashioned way will have to do, ie 2 person road tune. One screen watching WARI, the other watching consult, tweak timing to suit.

Thanks, it looks like my map is retarded in the cruising area. I guess I have your ecu file off the adaptronic forums. If that closely matches stock, Ill copy the low load cells. Actually my map is quite similar in other areas of the map, good to know that the tune is "relaxed" on full boost.

Im trying to find a stock timing map for an RB25DET for the purposes of comparing it to my adaptronic setup, mainly in the partial throttle region. The base maps that come from adaptronic are even more conservative with timing (for safety, liability etc), and aren't a good comparison. That would be the first step. Secondly does anyone know how to convert a AFM based load map to a MAP sensor load map?

I installed one on my stagea just before the cat, then ran the cable up through a hole in the transmission tunnel (drilled a hole). The "proper" way to power it is to wire a relay to the battery, then activate the relay via a 12v source when the key is in the on position. This ensures you know how much current is flowing through a circuit, whereas if you draw 3 amps through an existing circuit, that may blow the fuse, create a voltage drop etc For me, the cigarette lighter turns on with accessories, so not desirable. Test yours with a multimeter to be sure. A workshop manual will have wiring diagrams which you can use to find an "ON" position 12v source.

I was going to make a thread about this a while back. If you look up "landcruiser exhaust mount" you should find these rubber bushes with bolts attached like so: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Landcruiser-HZJ80-HDJ80-Series-Exhaust-Mount-Rubber-Set-3-/201205416170?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ed8c700ea I have replaced my rear exhaust hangers, and the cat converter brace with custom brackets and these rubber mounts. The rubber has flex in order to absorb vibration and allow for expansion of metal, but the exhaust cant sway in any direction very far. I find even hard hangers dont work because even if they dont stretch, the pendulum effect allows the exhaust to swing and touch things.

Like any of these? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-FACTORY-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-PIPE-R33-01-93-12-96-93-94-95-96-/271382099788?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2fa2374c http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-skyline-r33-gtst-intercooler-pipes-/221685793182?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339d80c19e http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-skyline-R33-intercooler-side-mount-with-pipes-1996-GTST-/261567312103?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce6a070e7 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-skyline-R34-intercooler-side-mount-with-pipes-1998-GTT-/261567310942?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce6a06c5e

One big drawback is I had to make a completely new custom bracket to hold the kinugawa actuator, the supplied one did not fit on the turbo .

Im using a kinugawa as well, and I have noticed the pressure values of the springs don't actually correspond to what pressure your turbo will produce. However I don't think that should be a problem, just experiment with the different springs available to get the closest one below your target boost. I have a hypergear standard 21u highflow (which means a larger wastegate flap, therefore more force on the gate) and the kinugawa actuator set with about 3 turns of preload. With the 0.8 bar spring it held around 0.6 bar of turbo pressure. Even at that modest spring pressure it has no problem holding wastegate in conjunction with boost control. The benefits over a factory actuator is the ability to change spring pressure, adjust preload and greater actuation length (which is helpful if you get some boost creep up high revs due to practice of widening the mounting holes on the bracket and adding preload that way)

Well I came up with a solution. Here is the wiring diagram for an s1 stagea: Its a bit unorthodox, but I have a relay wired directly to the battery which is activated by a 12v feed from the A/T power/snow switch. It was in the location that I was working in, and the 12v only comes on when the key is in the on position. Also its on a 10amp fuse, so running a relay coil shouldn't be a problem

This would be a good discussion for tuners. While some things associated with chasing power can negatively affect efficiency, like cams and larger injectors, I consider power figures and economy to be at different ends of the spectrum. Full power runs are about using as much fuel as you need to keep the engine safe, efficiency isn't a concern. But the smaller combustion charges at partial throttle pose less risk and so more energy can be extracted safely. From personal experience, even the BEST dyno tuners can't spend long on the full map unless you are going to pay them many 1000's of $ for their time. Partial throttle is where all your economy will come from, and tuning it takes a long time to get right. Manufacturers spend millions on getting a tune right. There's a fine line between efficient AFRs and the engine getting a lean misfire when variables suddenly change, eg throttle position changes.

The autech stageas still command a higher price than regular C34s. Im not sure the extra money is (only) buying you hardware, you pay for the rare factor. If you are going to mod a C34 with plenty of cash to spend, you might as well get a cheap chassis then do an RB30 conversion. Stageas need the torque down low.

Just wondering where the best place to find an 12v source (in the dash area) that is on only when the key is in the ON position, not ACC. Cigarette lighter is on the ACC circuit. Its just to run a relay coil, so it would not need to be high current tolerant. What are the wire colours on the key barrel? Also I have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser fitted. Im not sure how that will affect anything.

Another option would be a kinugawa adjustable wastegate actuator. I had to make a new right angle bracket out of some thick steel plate, but the pay off is an actuator which has a variety of spring tensions available, adjustable preload and a longer actuation throw than the stock actuator.

Ive had superpro eccentric bush bolts work themselves loose. I spotted it before it came all the way out. Pretty scary. To be fair, I'd say it's the tyre place not doing them up properly rather than the design of them. I had it happen twice after tyre alignments.

Does Haltech themselves give out base maps?

While I don't know the exact part numbers, fuel pump models don't seem to be too picky between R33, R34, S1 or S2 stagea. Are you wanting to replace yours?

Was pretty easy as far as I remember? The rear window surrounds obviously have to come out, as well as the trim above the tailgate opening. The roof lining should just be clipped on, what usually breaks is those little plastic clip on buttons on the plastic trim pieces. They can be replaced though with ones from supercheap auto.