zoomzoom

By the way the only code I an pull up is code 21 - injector signal. Im not sure if thats related as I dont have injectors connected to the stock ECU, only the adaptronic. Im not sure how to check any other codes, like gear box or attessa?

Hi, I just had my stagea dyno'd with an adaptronic 440 running in tandem with the stock ECU. I didn't have any trouble with the stock ECU while doing preliminary drives on the base map, but while on the dyno, the tachometer stopped working, the synchro, 4wd and abs lights came on. While the tachometer has stayed totally dead, the other lights would come on when you start the car, but sometimes go away after 10 mins or so. While the lights were on, you could feel the transfer case locking up. The wheels and drivetrain would slip and grind while turning sharply at low speed. That went away once the lights had also gone. I checked all the fuses and found that the 7.5 amp "ECU" fuse had blown under the drivers side coin tray. I replaced it with another, which has not blown yet, however it has not solved anything. Now the more crazy stuff. Due to the transfer case locking up, I removed the 4WD fuse and relay in the engine bay, as per the photos. However the warning lights were still on and the transfer case still was still locked up! How is that possible? What is actually powering the attessa pump? I am thinking I should remove the front driveshaft to avoid further damage.

Its for removing fine particles from the surface of the clear coat http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=clay+bar&look.x=0&look.y=0

I have an ECUtalk consult cable. Will gearbox codes come up in the same system that logs engine codes?

Ive nearly finished the install, Ill know in a couple of days whether the car runs.

I spent a bit of time reading SAU threads on people running auto skylines with PFC or other units which lose the timing retard feature. Judging by the responses, you'd think it was like running liquid glass in your transmission.

Maybe Im getting my terms mixed up. The 440 will be controlling fuel and timing, so it won't incorporate the timing retard feature from the stock ECU. Which brings me to something interesting. Ive been looking through consult logs of the stock ECU, and it seems the timing retard feature only occurs under heavy acceleration. I found periods of around 100-200ms where the timing was reduced to between -1 and 3 degrees at gear change points. However under regular partial throttle driving I couldn't find any similar timing cuts at gear changes. For a while I was quite worried about losing the gearchange timing feature. It will be interesting to see if the evidence in the logs mean that losing the timing retardation is inconsequential for regular day to day driving.

Crankcase breathers or catch can setups are post afm but not post turbo, which is what I assume you have tested.

Have you just checked for leaks post air flow meter?

Indeed it would, but to be honest I am not really willing to spend too much more time and money on this vehicle. The auto behaviour has some annoying aspects, but it isn't the end of the world. Im hoping a slightly skewed (to a lower voltage) TPS signal at low throttle openings will allow me to use some more throttle without kickdown as well as keep the torque converter clutch locked up. My biggest concern is the ECU reducing line pressure in those situations. I might even be able to make a rudimentary timing retard feature (on gear changes) with the assistance of a programmable microcontroller.

Im going to be installing an adaptronic 440 in my s1 stagea soon. One aspect which Ive been thinking about is controlling a few functions of the auto, ie, sending the ECU a modified TPS signal, and also controlling the line pressure solenoid. Does anybody have any literature on how the pressure solenoid functions? When the duty cycle applied to the solenoid is higher, it bleeds off more pressure? To err on the side of caution, I would like to ensure the line pressure is at least slightly higher than stock at lower rpms to cope with the increase in torque. Also, if the standard ECU is receiving a modified TPS signal, it may also reduce line pressure based on that variable. Has anybody seen or made measurements about when and how much line pressure is reduced?

The manual says 0.3mm is the limit of distortion. A thick gasket usually takes care of the problem.

I believe I replaced them with a pair of generic maxima struts. Cheap and very strong. Doing the rear tailgate is still going to be a trick. Other than regassing its a custom job to make new ones. I don't mind making new brackets, but finding similar struts is trickier.

I would avoid ebay due to many fuel pumps being cheap copies and then sold as a big name brand like walbro. Best to buy from a established dealer like Kudos motorsports etc.

Addendum 1: Judging by this document, amongst other sources, wiring injector pairs 1-6 2-5 3-4 is a functioning way. However a better option is 1-5 3-6 2-4 (however I don't like the asymmetry of it). That makes more sense on the ECU's wiring diagram, however the pin numbers are still different. If you cut the injector wires at the ECU, you should be able to determine the injectors by probing each ECU pin and coil plug with a multimeter?

Just in the process of planning out my ECU install. Ive been supplied a wiring diagram for the install, and there are some discrepancies between the one supplied and the ECU pinout which I found on this forum. Ive attached the one found on this forum. For example, on the forum's wiring diagram: Pin 101 - Fuel Injector 1 Pin 103 - Fuel Injector 3 Pin 105 - Fuel Injector 5 Pin 110 - Fuel Injector 2 Pin 112 - Fuel Injector 4 Pin 114 - Fuel Injector 6 On the ECU wiring diagram: Pin 101 - Fuel Injector 1 Pin 103 - Fuel Injector 3 Pin 105 - Fuel Injector 2 Pin 110 - Fuel Injector 5 Pin 112 - Fuel Injector 6 Pin 114 - Fuel Injector 4 The ECU will be semi-sequential. The firing cylinder pairings makes sense: 1-6 2-5 3-4 Shouldn't injector pairing be the same? Half sprayed at an open intake, half sprayed at a closed? Ill consult with the ECU tech support, but I wanted to check with the SAU community whether the attached pinout here is indeed correct, or whether there are different series 1 ecu's, or perhaps the ECU diagram is based on an auto skyline etc... Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls

If you're replacing the turbo yourself, set aside around $1k for a turbo. The standard r33 high-flow from hypergear is a fairly proven item. I use one as well. Keep in mind you'll probably spend a few hundred more on gaskets and a new set manifold studs and nut kit. (might as well fix the manifold while the turbo is off) Is your vehicle supported by nistune? If not then you are looking at an aftermarket flex-fuel capable ecu. The cheapest would be an adaptronic e440d. Even if you get that at a good price, with the accessories (air temp sensor, ethanol sensor, loom) you wont have any change from $1.5k Then factor in +$1k for a GOOD tune, where the tuner has paid attention to partial throttle drivability and fuel consumption. That would be a single tune on one fuel, that wouldn't be a flex tune with runs on 98 & e85.

What are your: a) Goals (ie just a bit more top end power, whilst retaining some low RPM response) b) Existing supporting mods c) Budget

What is your budget? Its not too bad living in Queanbeyan north of Canberra then driving into Canberra for work.

Not to threadjack, but I thought my questions would be relevant here, and more helpful than starting another thread. Is 6mm automotive wire sufficient for an aftermarket fuel pump direct wire mod? The stuff Im looking at is rated for 50 amps, which should be more double what is needed. For a moderate pump like a 255lph, are there any concerns with daily drivers running the pump at full flow all the time? Ie temperature of the fuel. What else is out there other than a bosch 040 and walbro 255 for light mods/fuel requirements? Back to your regular schedule, hope the questions are useful clkngezz

I like the idea of plenty of low end. I figured my upgrade would always be a big comfy V8 holden of some variety. Still, can't beat the theatrics and sound of a turbo spooling up through a full 3 inch exhaust.

Slight increase in vibrations, but you wont notice it after a while.

Run your hand all around the exhaust pipe and see if its close to touching anything. An exhaust touching the body can cause some wild in-car noises.

That's quite a few kms. I am curious how many "lifetime of the vehicle" parts you went through? Like wheel bearings, cv joints, big bushes like subframes etc

There does seem to be a browser error. When I use Internet Explorer on Win 8.1, the problem doesn't occur. It also works when I sign in to SAU on one of Firefox's private windows. The problem occurs when I use Firefox's default state. The difference now is that the up-to-date threads appear on the main SAU forum, but then if I go into a subforum like forced induction, then the threads are still limited to the 25th of October.