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I deleted all the cookies, and it seemed to make a difference at first. The most recent threads seemed to come up on the main SAU forum, but when I went into the subforums, the problem still remained. The log out button on the main SAU forum tab doesn't log me out. If I click it once, nothing appears to happen, then if I click it again, it sends me to a page which says "Oops, something went wrong" or to that effect. However when I go to another tab, eg "SAU Community" "Gallery" etc, then it will show me as being logged out, and my username is replaced with the "Sign In" label.

Just to throw another variable in the mix... I have been pretty disappointed with a very popular brand inexpensive dump pipe. Apart from some alignment issues, just take a look at the opening where it connects to the turbo: The wastegate flap on a hypergear turbo can foul if you have an aftermarket actuator which opens a little further than the stock one. Keep in mind on a hypergear turbo, the turbine outlet is even larger, meaning that even the gasket opening will be slightly smaller than the turbine outlet diameter. It would be a good idea to have one made, or modify and existing one. The stuff coming out of china can be just too variable in quality and shape.

Hi, since the 25th of October, I have noticed that the topics/posts in the forums/subforums only go up until the 25th of October, and that posts made on the 25th of Oct are listed as "Today". Ive attached 2 screencaps (made today 4/11) of the problem. Ive tried logging out, but I cannot. When I try to logout, it goes back to the main SAU page, and if I try to log out again it gives me an error. If I use firefox's private window feature, I can then see the most recent posts in forums

I bought an off the shelf JJR dump pipe, but now Im having a custom one made. There's enough things that can be wrong with a pre made dump pipe that it may be worth handing your money to an exhaust shop to do a full turboback system. It will have better ground clearance and alignment and you shouldn't have to worry about it again.

They probably exist, but good luck finding them. Also good luck finding one that hasn't degraded. I made one many years ago. 1) Purchase a length of rubber matting from a rubber store, one that would be larger than the boot space. I paid around $60-$80 from memory. 2) Remove the screwed in plastic carpeted sections of the boot. 3) Place them face down on the underside of the rubber, assembled how they fit together in the boot. 4) Trace and cut the boot shape out of the rubber. 5) Test fit and trim the rubber where necessary. 6) Enjoy your new boot mat. Mine has stood up to 5 years of heavy wear and tear, leaving the carpet underneath pristine.

Absolutely, you'll let unmetered air into the engine below boost, and let out tons of air on boost. Definitely would run like crap.

That's really cool, but jesus that article has been derailed by feminist trolls who are unhappy with the semantics of a guy "letting" his wife completely cover his car in ink.

Internally there are different mirrors available for the c34 stagea. I have an S1, but I replaced the mirrors with some second hand S2 ones. I had hoped to transfer the correct coloured plastic outer shell from my originals to the new ones, but internally they were different. I would also try to find a good second hand set, from either S1 or S2.

A built awd box with a shift kit, a trans controller and custom paddle shifters would be kinda neat

Yep its "safe" to remove the whole assembly with just the nut holding the springs. As you say it is only containing the spring preload, not the full compressed force. However its not like I would hold it towards my face and stare at it for any length of time. The riskiest part is going to be the use of spring compressors, since the spring is tapered. It is difficult (for me it was impossible) to only use 2 wide grip compressors. I had to use a couple of extra "death sticks" to compress the spring all round safely. If you know of anyone at suspension shops, it would be a good time to call in a favour and use their professional compressors. Also its probably a good time to get a good new dust boot. Im using dirtbike ones. Also, the rubber donuts that sit between the strut piston and strut mount degrade and crack over time, especially when you get new hard shocks. Possibly some polyurethane sway bar bushes would work.

Flux solder probably wont be enough. I use Comweld 965 soldering flux to prepare surfaces, and have had no trouble soldering to steel.

I think you'd be better off buying an aftermarket transmission controller unit if you wish to remain auto, while adding features like tiptronic/manual gear selection. If you have cash you could look for someone selling a built box (someone on SAU was selling a RWD skyline box a while ago) You'd also be able to control shift points and alter when the torque converter clutch locks up. You could copy the stock shift map (Im sure I have it in a PDF somewhere), and then tweak it to suit. I think the TC clutch could lock up far more often (and probably get better fuel econ as a result)

This reminds me of the internet debates on "torque vs horsepower" of the early to late noughties. So much bench racing, so much wasted time...

Hmm I didn't realise it was that much hassle. Ive done them quite a few times, and done it when I have the car up on 4 stands. As I mentioned, a few flex joints helps to do the twisting outside the wheel well. Another pair of hands helps too! It's tricky keeping a floppy pole in a hole.

Big breaker bars work to a point....then usually something breaks. If you work on cars you should really have a strong impact gun (not a cheapo). The impacting motion helps to break nuts loose more than just constant torque.

A few flexi-joints on the wrench will help

The only real problem I see is that you must train your left foot to have the same fine motor skills as your right foot, much like the differences between dominant and other hand. The whole pad-wearing argument could be equally applied to using your left foot for the clutch. Many clutches have been burned out by clutch-riders. Just don't do it. Then again I frequently shift vehicles, and so the -brakes may be my right hand, right foot, or left foot -accelerator may be my right hand or right foot -clutch may be left foot or left hand Its just situational muscle memory.

Im not sure about HICAS ones, but the regular ball joints in the lower control arms are quite easy even with a 6 ton press. You just need the right bits of scrap metal pipe to press the body of the ball joint out (not the moving pin), while bracing the arms. Theres no doubt what you're planning is a lot of work, so make sure to get reliable quotes. You might reconsider taking it to a workshop when you get the quote, even if it is a lot of work. Also make sure to read the instructions for whatever bushes you're using. Some may require you to leave the metal shell inside the subframe, so that may work to your advantage.

Don't bother, threaded puller tools have specially hardened threads. A regular piece of threaded rod will strip before a pressed in shell gives way.

God this stuff is doing my head in. I might just have to fork out for an adaptronic in the end. Basically I have a hypergear highflow (with the 21u? exhaust housing), MV shift kit and full 3 inch exhaust sorted. I don't feel like I am getting my money's worth out of the turbo or exhaust, since it feels very sluggish under boost in the mid range. My main concern about the full standalone (apart from the price, but it costs what it costs) is that there is no timing retard on gear changes, and it will inject and ignite cylinders in pairs rather than individually. That may or may not be a big deal, but I am worried about sacrificing economy or low rpm smoothness. Also when I purchased the shift kit, the guy at MV said that the ignition retarding issue would no longer be a concern. Im sure the shift kit decreases the wear on clutches when shifting, but shifting under full load still seems like a bad thing.

Do you mean the latest revisions will solve the ignition problem? This seems like quite a major issue, and I can't really find a definite answer to ensure the safety of the coils.

Ive nearly decided on one of these things. Doesn't look like a type 6 nistune board is likely to be found any time soon. I have attached a pin diagram which I found on the forum, the installation seems fairly straightforward. Anyhow I still have a few questions about how it operates: In terms of controlling ignition, does it intercept the triggering of the ignition from the stock ECU, then delay or advance the signal, or does it have its own ignition maps (it seems possible since it has AFM and RPM signals from the harness). This seems relevant to maintaining ignition retarding on gear changes, even though the timing might be slightly advanced (ie gear changes are normally 0 degrees, which may be advanced to 5-10 degrees on heavy throttle - still better than no ignition retarding at all) Are diodes still required? Stories of the emanage burning out coils are old, but still concerning. Are the injectors handled in a similar way? From reading the literature, my understanding is that it reads the rising edge of a signal from the stock ECU (ie when the injector turns on) then the emanage determines the pulse width. I have read the phrase "adds pulse width", though if my understanding is correct, it could also remove fuel to correct for richness. Otherwise does it simply bend the AFM signal being sent to the ECU? This seems the least controllable way since the ECU will also vary the timing with the amount of fuel injected. WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls

So is a Greddy E-Manage (Blue) going to be a safe option for very mild tuning, ie removing the mid range timing retardation and leaning the AFR when its going rich? I have seen a few passing comments about them frying the coil packs.

Once I get most of those parts, it wont be far off the cost of a tuneable ECU anyways. The tuneable ECU will be more future proof, and useful in other projects, and even has the ability to run a flex fuel setup. I know I wont be maximising the functions of an ECU immediately, but it seems to be the proper way to go about fixing up the stock timing and fuel maps.

It would have to be piggy backed to retain the auto functions.