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The adaptronic e440d is one of the main options. I haven't looked into a remap, because I did like the idea of a tuneable (even flex fuel) setup. I figured a read-only remap would be a bit of a risky guess in terms of results, but I am open.

S1 Stagea auto, hence the problem finding an ECU....

I guess the main options will be a 4 driver ECU, so 3 would be used to provide spark and fuel for pairs of cylinders on the RB. It wouldn't fire all injectors at once. So in essence the fuel which goes into each cylinder would be 50% from the injection that occurred while while the intake valve was closed, 50% while on the intake stroke. My mods are a hypergear r33 high flow turbo, and a 3 inch exhaust. I only intended to ever have light mods, though even that seems to be too much for the stock ecu. I realise that technically going to paired batch injection is a "step down" from stock sequential, but can you achieve more efficiency with a tuneable batch injection system compared to stock? For example if I was to end up with worse cruising or highway economy, I wouldn't be too happy. Ideally I would like it to pay itself off a little....

Just curious what the difference would mean for tuning a daily driver. How does a batch injection/spark ECU setup compare to a (much more expensive) full sequential system, all compared to stock tune in terms of: Fuel economy for cruising between 2-3k rpm, or general fuel economy. Idling, any driveability or practical issues etc. Is any aftermarket ECU with a good tune going to beat the stock tune? Thanks.

Logs are done through a consult cable, logged in ECUtalk. Quite possible that the turbo is flowing too much in the midrange for the ecu's liking. Thanks guys, back to looking at aftermarket ecu options now.

Just did some sensor logging and some full throttle runs to see how my setups is running: Stock ecu, but hypergear high flow @ 9-10psi and a 3 inch turbo back exhaust. From second gear pulling to about 100kmh, I notice there is 30 degrees of timing around 4k rpm which drops to 12 degrees by 4.7k rpm. Interestingly it climbs back to 20 degrees by 5.5krpm and holds that until ~6.2k rpm. Max AFM signal reaches 4.94, FWIW. Normal, abnormal? Or anything else I should look out for in the logs?

Reminds me of a mix between a jaguar f type and a ferrari california. Credit for going with something sleek.

Yes the studs weaken and snap after many years, especially if yours have not been replaced from the factory. However mine are new and my car still makes little pops and burbles on the overrun. Was particularly noticeable after fitting a new 3 inch exhaust. If you don't notice any issues with fuel consumption I wouldn't be too concerned.

The easiest way I can think of is with a consult cable. You can see the signal in realtime or you can create a log over a period of time, ie going for a drive. I think theyre a must for any skyline etc owner who needs to track down a fault.

"i dont want to loose back pressure" and "That should give you the drone your after" Wait, what? Anyways, its just unburnt fuel. You could double check using a consult cable. Maybe the "closed throttle" signal isn't working properly when you let off the throttle.

The 100cpsi ones can be purchased for less than 200cpsi ones. I paid $250 for a 100cpsi 5 inch cat. Would a 200cpsi cat pass an emissions test anyways? You might as well slap on a 400cpsi (or most dense one you can find) cat if you need to do emmisions. The car does smell more like a car from the 80's, so as I mentioned above if you're really unlucky and some officer doesn't much care for the smell it may be a problem. Visually it is noticeable since its stainless steel, but it is nice and fat, so it does look like a legit cat. Bigger = more legit. lol

Attention is overrated, particularly when you need to park the car and subject it to the risk of theives and stray sets of keys running down the sides of the doors. Plus who wants a defect magnet?

Good question, I wonder if there is a brake sensor to stop power being applied to the front wheels under those conditions.

It would probably be a worth a shot adding some silicone spray after cleaning, I just find that WD40 has a superior ability to dissolve and flush out crap. Leave the car for a week or two after cleaning until the WD smell goes away, then add the lube.

I can almost guarantee the alignment will be out. You will scrub your tyres and waste money. In general its simple though, if the taper is the same on the pin and wheel assembly, it should go together by hand and shouldnt wobble about. Putting a jack under the tie rod to provide force is helpful to hold the pin up while you tighten the bolt, however you should not be applying force to the grease fitting directly. A hole drilled into the wood would have put the force onto the body of the tie rod.

I had the same problem and fixed it by spraying the whole pedal mechanism with WD40. You will need to put down newspaper and plastic sheets or garbage bags in the footwell to catch the run off - you will need to spray a lot. Spray the whole mechanism while moving the pedal in and out (try to hold open the release catch somehow) I also used a tube and a nozzle attached to the WD40 can because you need to hold the can upright, while the tube and nozzle allows you to get the WD40 right onto the mechanism. It has now been more than a year since I did this, and at the moment there is only the faintest sticking at the top of the pedal travel. Might be time to give it another shot.

Ive heard of american DSM guys doing their own rebuilds, but wouldn't you want it checked by a turbo workshop afterwards anyways? It needs to be measured on a balance machine, which is well beyond the means of an individual mechanic.

The wife said: Get rid of that god damn money pit. He says: Honey, Im trying to sell it, but its just not getting any offers....

If the threads are correct then its better to get ones that are too long. They can always be cut down, and still leave plenty of adjustment thread. Some cheap ones are quite short, and so you end up with only a small length of thread holding the outer tie rod in. Obviously a dangerous situation if they strip out....

Ive consistently returned 12-13L/100km with canberran "city" driving. Highway is 11-12L/100km. Ive installed a new exhaust so I am curious to see whether that has affected the economy. Lots of WOT runs has probably negatively affected economy....

Seems like a bit of engine oil deposits in the cam area for only 14000kms.....

Also should mention, the 5 inch 100 cell cat is getting rather close to a decat pipe. If you're REALLY unlucky, the exhaust smell might raise some scrutiny....

I have found a reduction in ground clearance with the 5 inch cat and a Just Jap Racing (bell mouth, mild steel) dump pipe. Even with standard ride height I have to be careful with bumps and driveways, ie if you go over them too fast, the suspension compresses too far and the cat scratches the ground. The cat seems to be made well and the flanges are straight. On the other hand I think the JJR item isn't very good quality. For starters the turbo end flange is poorly finished, and the angle that the end points at leads me to think it may have alignment issues. I had a custom catback made so it bolts up fine, but a stock exhaust (or any pre existing catback) may pose problems. The cat end of the dump pipe appears to point towards the ground slightly, further reducing ground clearance. Its not a lot, but the custom catback definitely had to be angled back up towards the car.

Can't you get up in there with a mobile phone camera or something? Best to see what you actually have rather than what you "should" have.

Any reason why you're limiting yourself to the Autech? Id recommend finding a very clean manual C34 AWD and then spending the cash you saved on doing thorough repairs and maintenance. If its going to be a daily driven practical vehicle, the RB25 with basic mods like exhaust and reconditioned/high flowed turbo is a good pick.