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Are any of them washable ones? I wouldn't even bother with that, because of the wire air flow sensor just after the filter. If you get that covered in oil, the negative effect on performance will be far greater than any air filter difference. Paper is fine for flowing more air than you'll need. Also if you lose the airbox in favour of a pod filter you'll lose the cold air snorkel.

This is a repost of what I put in the audio and security section. Not sure if that was the best forum for it: I have a stepper boost gauge which is powered by an accessory circuit. When starting the engine, the gauge switches off and on again. The problem is I think the gauge has a self zeroing startup procedure, ie it centres the dial to 0 boost/vac. When it turns on the second time I believe its zeroing to about 0.1 bar boost (that is what it ends up on when turning the engine off, back to accessory position without disrupting power to the gauge) Could a large capacitor be used to keep the gauge running in the short time while cranking the engine?

I have a stepper boost gauge which is powered by an accessory circuit. When starting the engine, the gauge switches off and on again. The problem is I think the gauge has a self zeroing startup procedure, ie it centres the dial to 0 boost/vac. When it turns on the second time I believe its zeroing to about 0.1 bar boost (that is what it ends up on when turning the engine off, back to accessory position without disrupting power to the gauge) Could a large capacitor be used to keep the gauge running in the short time while cranking the engine?

For oil filters Ive used ryco and even a bluepoint filter. (like a european ryco I guess). Nothing really to say about either of them, no problems. For air filters, I had a red coloured one, but not a K&N washable one, now just using a ryco paper filter. For oil, I just stick with 10w-40 and the only difference Ive found between brands is semi-synth ones caused a bit more ticking from the cam area on startup, particularly winter, so I stick with synthetic.

Another option is to go for an aftermarket alarm and immobiliser. Its a pretty good investment, and you'll get a new remote. Then just buy a key blank like this and get any key cutter to duplicate your existing key. Its much more attractive than the standard key

Im mulling over whether its worth upgrading to a comfy HSV or maybe a G6E turbo.... Ive managed with an old car that was never even sold in this country, I dont suppose ford and holden ceasing production will make a huge amount of difference to spare parts, though it would be smart to double check how many new parts will be produced in years to come.

Upgrade to a C34.

I had the same issue when I replaced the stock bushing with a superpro one. If its not adjustable, you get what you get in terms of castor. Mine is slightly uneven. Buying another set of arms is probably your easiest option.

Go to the doctors and ask for a leakdown test.

Are you young? Because it just sounds like a lack of buying savvy on your part. Not that it excuses the dealer for their responsibilities (even just ethical ones), but at least you'll know better next time. I wouldn't bother with dealers, unless I decide to buy new.

I think my S1 will still be running after WW3....in 18 months Ive rebuilt the suspension and steering, slapped a rebuilt turbo on it and put a shift kit in. That breathed new life into a soggy auto wagon. Probably should have waited and spent the coin on a S2 manual back in the day.....

I miss the stock turbo's response sometimes. On the other hand the engine now gets run through a larger rpm range, for better or worse. I could basically run the car under 3000rpm all the time. The hi flow is very much on light duty for what is essentially a stock replacement.

At the moment I am running 9psi max boost. I am trying to improve the turbo response under 3000rpm. Currently it starts to build boost from perhaps 2300 rpm, it can produce the full 9psi by 3000 rpm, but I would like to improve that around 2500 - 2700 rpm band where it sits at highway speeds. Currently I am using a cheapo turbotech (which btw gummed up and caused some big overboosts, resulting in me replacing the turbo), but with very little preload on the spring. It does help the spool compared to a direct wastegate line, but I cant add any more spring pressure without winding the boost up.

I wonder what the difference in the spooling rpm is with a greddy profec (or similar EBC) vs a humble ball and spring valve? I know a $30 valve is a big improvement over just running an open line from the pressure source to the wastegate actuator. Im currently looking for a lower spooling rpm since I have put on a hypergear hi-flow rebuilt turbo.

Ive got an MV automatics shift kit ready to go in as a matter of fact.....

Bingo, thanks for that. Supercheap should be able to get that. Also will be 100x easier to order with a part number.

Good to know about the filter though I am still unsure on the gasket. The stagea auto sump is a rectangle shape, where as the link above shows an odd shape. Ill see if supercheap has anything for the 300zx or skyline auto.

If I go to supercheap (or heaven forbid nissan) and ask for other vehicle models that may fit, what would be some options? Are there any differences in 2wd and 4wd ones (like a skyline gtst auto)?

Just looking for a filter and gasket for my S1 stagea, and I am wondering whether any RE4R01A service kit will do, or do some cars use different sumps and different shaped filters etc? eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-SERVICE-KIT-NISSIAN-PATHFINDER-RE4R01A-AUTO-TRANS-GEARBOX-/121203320102?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3847e526

Just be warned its far more difficult to replace the cam bolt than the nut. Maybe nissan can get genuine ones, but you know the deal with prices... Before you cut the whole thing off, see if those g35/350z replacements may work. How about trying a nut splitter/cutter? Have you tried applying heat to the nut?

Can you describe more how you've tried to get it off? Firstly you shouldn't really try to twist the bolt (for removal or toe adjustment) until you have loosened the nut because the eccentric washer will chew into the threads, and ruin the notch on the washer too. If you get the nut off, then just tap the bolt out with a hammer? If you do chew the threads and damage the washer, its not totally ruined. Where the washer sits on the bolt, the threads can be coated with solder to rebuild the diameter of the bolt and the groove. Solder is very easy to file or dremel, so you can restore the original shape of the bolt. The nut never has to go over these threads so it is fine. The washer can be restored in a similar way, or with a spot weld. Not sure if thats a help. Are you saying the hex head has been rounded off? If the bolt was turned in an attempt to loosen it, rather than turning the nut, you'd probably ruin it like this. As for replacements, I think repco can get one? When I went looking for one they said there was an aftermarket one (for silvia and skyline drifter types I guess) but it was quite expensive. You may be lucky to find a 2nd hand one on ebay. It does look like there are aftermarket ones for the 350z. You can try to ask these sellers what the dimensions of the bolts are, maybe nissan didnt change the bolt diameter and cam diameter over the years. With any luck. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REAR-ALIGNMENT-BOLTS-KIT-3-00-CAMBER-TOE-/161138000385?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item258492c201 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPC-Performance-Rear-Camber-Toe-G35-G37-M35-M45-370Z-Cam-Bolts-Set-1-Side-/271263157668?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item3f288b4da4 If they fit, you should be able to haggle the shipping price down....

Just bumping this to see if anyone has gotten their manualised transmissions working yet. Im curious about how the stock shifter works, vs a B&M style one. The vids Ive seen of the B&M in action seem to show that gears 1-4 are selected similar to a sequential. Also curious how the lockup clutch functions in day to day usage. eg, what happens when you change gears with the lockup clutch engaged? Is there any safety trip to unlock it before the transmission changes gears? Are there any safety trips for disengaging the clutch below certain speeds or engine rpms?

While the intercooler pipes are 60mm O.D., the inlet of the crossover pipe is 66mm. 2.25' gives a firmer seal for the 60mm ones, and 2.25' to 2.5' joiners can be purchased for the crossover pipe.

What viscosity oil are you using?

Hi Im trying to find a device mentioned by another member, one that would modify the throttle % signal for the transmission, so that you change the shifting response of the auto. eg, you can open the throttle plate more, but the transmission still thinks you are opening the throttle less, and so wont kickdown, rev out etc. I dont have any name to search for, but does this sound familiar?