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On a side note, I guess that was not on a stock ECU? What are people using to operate in conjunction with the series 1 auto ecu? (for ignition cut etc. Ive seen references to difficulties in that regard) In the meantime I am interested in this TPS adjustment, though I cant find anything on SAU about it.

Very interesting, I would assume it would have to translate the linear response to a logarithmic one. (So the trans would still read "full throttle" if you put your foot down.) Sounds like it would help with the lock up clutch too, which unlocks FAR too easy in normal driving. Any key words to help me search for it?

Ive recently had my stock turbo rebuilt as a high flow unit from hypergear, and its showing up a few drawbacks in the transmission. Previously the turbo would spool up so quick, it allowed the motor to stay in the higher gears (because of less throttle) and use the torque. The new turbo needs more throttle to spool it up at low revs, but then it leads the transmission to kickdown. Its not the end of the world, but I would like to have some more control over the transmission. Obviously a manual would solve everything, but since Ive spent time fixing and modifying my current chassis, I dont want to sell it and find a new vehicle. However, for a 17 year old car I dont think its worthwhile going down the manual conversion route either. Im also not chasing lots of power, which leads me to ponder what can be done with the auto trans. Can the series 1 auto transmission be manualised? Is it suitable for a street car? I guess most people just ditch the auto which is fair enough. Alternatively, I look at other turbo options....

It sounds like you just have a worn turbo.....in addition to another problem.

Can you hear the wheel scraping against anything in the turbo, or does the rotation of the shaft feel grainy etc? Its possible your turbo is just worn, which is normal and happens to all turbos. I still cant see it causing the symptoms you mentioned.

4WS reverts to *straight ahead* in the event of errors being detected. The early ones were extremely reliable cars. They used a mazda ute engine with a tiny turbo attached. Not much top end power, but tons of torque down low. It would pull quite happily from 1.5k rpm even in high gears. The 4WS system made it a bit tail happy, certainly was a bit of fun in the wet. Also good for tight parking spaces. I dont have any experience with the later ones. By accounts the V6's were smoother and more linear, and lacked the old-school turbo punch. Not really all-out sports cars, more like cruisers and tourers. From an era when I would consider buying new mazdas...

Cool, but double check whether jumping contacts like that is safe (who knows what happens if you short the wrong ones) A usb consult interface is a good investment, and not too pricey. Checking the codes is a good start, but the ability to also monitor and log the various sensors on a drive is extremely helpful in establishing patterns of anomalous behaviour. Good for tracking down odd problems. My auto gearbox was playing up once. Turns out the TPS sensor was causing the malfunction (the auto needs throttle % for shift points etc), so thats why I say be careful about jumping to conclusions.

Unless there is some massive restriction in the intake, when you open the throttle the manifold should fill to 0 vac (essentially opening it to atmosphere) regardless of the functionality of the turbo. Something doesn't sound right.

I wouldn't jump to conclusions about the turbo. If there is any in-and-out shaft play, or theres grinding sounds when you turn the shaft, or excessive up or down shaft play, then yes it may be time to get a rebuild or upgraded high flow. I just replaced mine with a hypergear high flow today actually. The original lasted 125k kms (still operational, just worn). However the symptoms youre describing dont seem to match a blown/worn turbo. Are you taking a vacuum reading from the manifold? You should be able to get to 0 vac any time you open the throttle.

Maybe of interest, I found this helped with controlling boost on my car: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v2-s14a-s15-eccentric-throttle-wheel.html It will work fine on an RB25DET. The standard wheel opened the throttle quite a lot with little pedal movement, where as the GKTECH one is the opposite, ie a smooth logarithmic opening of the throttle, where 50% pedal may only be 30% throttle opening. (not sure about exact numbers) Its good for peaky responsive turbos.

Seems to check out as an autech vin, but that's gotta be clocked back on the odo.

Fair nuff, though for future reference or anyone else's benefit, the turbo and exhaust manifold can all be removed with simple hand tools. You'll need a few sizes of socket wrenches for the tight spots, and a selection of spanners. Other than that you may need to get a thread repair guy out, as I did when a stud broke (or probably was already broken). Good time to replace all the studs and gaskets. As a matter of fact I think I only had to get underneath the car to get at 3 bolts. Hear that M35 guys? Its soooooo hard on an RB......

There are hi-flow rebuild options for the standard turbo which should give you enough headroom for a while. If youre going to start from a stock car, then theres probably a lot of groundwork maintenance to be done in the suspension for example.

Well my custom jobby turned out fairly neat. I put some 13mm I.D. PVC clear pipe over the fittings to give a firm seal with the 5/8 oil hose. Unicoils stop the hose from kinking, and I wrapped some old bike tyre inner tube around the whole thing, since the original ones had extra insulation too. Still its a real close fit between the aircon fitting and the turbo inlet pipe. The original molded pipe has a sharp bend right out of the P/S inlet. The smaller hose can use 3/8 hose, no modification needed.

A trick question isn't it if you say they have the same horsepower? Shouldn't you be comparing the power output of either engine and changing the variable of air temperature?

Dont know if there is any difference between S1 and S2 stagea, but the part number I got from nissan was 48521 23 U25 It was $137....that may be only 1 tie rod. Id recommend the GTR ones anyhow. Trimming and filing takes 15 mins.

I hope so, my main concern is the tube kinking on sharp bends, particularly since the larger hose is a suction hose correct? The 9/16 hose on its way to me should have a wall thickness of around 3mm or less, whereas the 5/8 tube I already have is 4mm. Also I have a few 5/8 unicoils (http://www.unicoil.com.au/) which will work perfectly for bending the larger hose.

I need to replace both the reservoir hoses, but nissan says they can't/won't supply the part. They say its stagea specific and nissan australia doesnt supply it. Anyhow I have some oil safe hoses ready to use, the smaller diameter P/S hose isnt a problem, however the larger one is trickier. The inlet on the pump is 15mm diameter. I have some 5/8 inch hose which is just slightly too large. It will seal on the flange of the pump inlet but its still slightly larger than 15mm. I have some 9/16 steel braided hose being delivered to try out and see if that will work (its about 14.2mm ID) I would still like to try and make the 5/8 hose work as I have some angled hose braces that will allow me to bend the hose and keep the shape. I was thinking about slightly increasing the diameter of the pump inlet with heatshrink, which is also a fairly pliable plastic and should make a good seal. Any one else have solutions?

I purchased R33 GTR ones from supercheap and trimmed the threaded section down. (29cm total length down to ~27.5cm total length) The original ones were about 27cm Better to have plenty of threaded rod going into the outer tie rod. Other skyline rack ties are too short, you risk insufficient thread holding the tie rod ends on. Needless to say, if they stripped out while driving you'd have a bad day.... The only reference number I can find for supercheap auto is RE752. They were about $70 for the pair. Only modification needed is adding some heat shrink to the shaft of the tie rod so the dust boots hold on more tightly.

If I do get them out however, is there a specific stud for them? They look fairly similar to the exhaust studs in length, still 10x1.25mm

Hmm, I tried to remove them using the 2 nut method, they dont seem to want to move. Kinda scared to try and get them out actually.....

Well FML, one stud broke off leaving the thread in the head, another one is still in the head and doesn't want to move. Looks like Ill need a thread doctor... Anyhow, since I am replacing all the exhaust studs, I was wondering should the exhaust manifold to turbo studs be replaced? Or the dump pipe studs? Or do people just replace the manifold studs and call it a day?

Power mode? On my stagea the 3-way switch goes (down) Snow Mode - (middle) Normal mode - (up) Power mode. Power mode revs out the gears more and holds onto them longer before shifting.

Oh and dont forget to pull the intercooler out an rinse it out with some kerosene or similar....

Im in a similar boat to the OP. Im getting a standard hypergear high flow done as an alternative to buying a second hand neo turbo. It was only a few hundred more for a turbo you know the full history of, since its "new". I wont have it back into the car until a few weeks, so until then I have no opinion on how it functions.