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For the price of a high flowed turbo, getting a second hand one seems like an unnecessary gamble.

Just searching for torque figures for manifold studs and nuts. Not sure if I am reading the manual right, it says 27-31 nm for the studs, but what about the nuts? Will they be the same? Also I have a new gasket ready to go so I assume that has some give in it.

Yeah, Ive already sent an email. Even the standard hi-flow they list says the compressor and exhaust wheels are replaced with larger steel wheels, hence my question that isnt a new turbo which closely matches the characteristics of the original effectively no different to the ECU (if a high flowed one is fine on a stock ECU)?

Out of interest, isnt a hi-flowed turbo effectively a different turbo? The SS1 turbo I was referencing seems to be a close match to stock, certainly comparable to the hi-flow modified one.

Modest, in fact not much more than stock. I was running 9psi, and I think Ill be leaving the stock ECU, hence why I am looking for a close-to-stock replacement (a bolt on replacement). Torque and boost rolling off at higher rpms isnt a big deal since its a daily driver, meaning I also want to keep low end response as good as possible. If I get some stronger midrange torque, then thats nice too. Any info on why the GCG option doesnt end well? Also my understanding is that these hypergear units (SS1) are new turbos, but still cheaper than GCG where you have to send your existing one off to be modified.....

Ill certainly ask Hypergear. Just reading through the sites you linked, it would seem the SS1 and SS1 billet machined turbo are the best match for what I need - maximum low end response. Anyone using those models?

Just bumping this. Looking at a GCG hi flowed turbo for my S1 Stagea. Just interested what the lag and power delivery will be like compared to a stock turbo? I want to retain as much low end power as possible, so the rpm it spools at is important, some more lag in building up boost isn't a massive issue, but if it only makes boost above 2500-3000rpms that could be a problem. Also any comments on the mid range and hi rpm power if I intend to only run around 9psi

Could be a possibility, what rpm does it create useable boost from vs the stock turbos? How will it function with a standard ECU? Keep in mind Im not chasing power, the car is mainly a workhorse vehicle and so the stock response and low spool rpm is crucial.

Thanks, so is it a direct swap, or are modifications required for fitment? Also assuming no change in the amount of boost I want to run, how will the stock ECU cope?

Just wondering if a Neo turbo is a direct replacement for a regular RB25DET in a 1996 stagea? I read the Neo turbo is not as hardy as the older series of turbo, but the Neo seems to be more available and priced low (I imagine its because they arent wanted) But if they fit, are they acceptable if you stay below 9 psi?

So theres no automation on the lockup clutch at all? If you stop the car you stall?

Im only running about 0.6 bar which is why the electronic boost controller didn't seem such good value for money. On the plus side, there doesn't seem to be anything physically wrong with the turbotech controller. The ball and spring was gummed up with some grayish sticky powdery substance. The ball was sticking to the seat, resulting in it overboosting.

So Ive had my second turbotech ball and spring manual boost controller malfunction. The first came apart (maybe my fault, though I did tighten everything well), the second one has recently mysteriously caused the turbo to overboost/infinite boost like an open wastegate actuator, except that the controller still appears to be normal. Nothing has loosened, spring isn't stuck. In both cases they failed unsafely, ie resulting in massive overboost. I was thinking of going back to a safer bleed system, however I really like the response of the ball and spring system. It allows the vehicle to build full boost sub 2500rpms, which makes it great for hills and such in the heavy stagea. Are electronic controllers capable of giving that fast spool? Also do they fail safely, ie if power was cut to the solenoid, would it simply result in the wastegate opening at the standard spring setting? Also is there any problems with parts? For example I had a stepper motor boost gauge where the pressure sender broke, resulting in the whole thing being useless. Available spare parts would be good.

I swing the bottle around, the heavier oil goes to the bottom.

Yes, just undo the filler first then undo the drain bolt. Takes around 1.5 litres? A 5L bottle will do both front and rear. Im running 80w-140 in the rear and 80w-90 in the front.

Can't say Id be disappointed if I bought a stagea rs4 and it turned out to be an audi rs4.

Did some war break out here or something? I would have to say that the type of vehicle sets the demographic. A few years back I still used to peruse a few international forums, one where the types of vehicles could be purchased by 15-16 year old Americans, and the influence that had on the atmosphere of the forum was noticeable.

Just did 1000kms in my S1 RS4V and got a respectable 10.5L/100km.

Contact the manufacturer, providing pics and serial number?

The bushes in the control arms and hubs are fairly straightforward. I found the safest and easiest, although time consuming way, is to heat the inner metal tube of the rubber bush, then press it out once it has broken, then use a reciprocating saw to scrap away some rubber and cut the shell enough so that you can split it with a hammer and chisel. Once you do that the shell can be pressed out easily. I managed to press a few out just with an hydraulic press, but sometimes I couldn't get it at just the right angle to break it loose. Its a very time consuming process if youve never done them before. The labour is going to be expensive if you get someone else to do it. The other option is just get good aftermarket arms with new bushings in them already. Plus the camber and toe can be more reliably set compared to the standard eccentric bolts. Though, clunking does not sound like the bushings, unless one has totally disintegrated.

Is this a DIY turbojet or something? If you are keeping the turbo stationary, a gravity fed oil drip would do the trick, otherwise a small 12v pump would supply plenty of oil. Dont use grease....

There could be something like that, but I couldn't see it. Its a very difficult area to work on even if you take off the lower plastic part of the dash. I still don't know how the mechanism actually holds and releases the tension on the cable. I thought spraying lubricants might be disastrous and the brake wouldn't hold at all. Thankfully that wasn't the case.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424151-sticky-parking-brake/#entry6948181

The length of the threaded section is too short? More likely the inner tie rods are too short or too long. Havent seen variations on outer tie rod length, but I have come across multiple inner tie rod lengths with otherwise identical thread/diameter on the rod. I think I bought gtst rods for my stagea. They were too short. I eventually cut some threads off a GTR outer tie rod (290mm total length down to 280mm) Do you have your original tie rods to compare to?

How were they wrong? Was the taper incorrect, or was the thread incorrect? From what I am seeing, the r32 is the same as the r33, and theyre all over ebay for about 50 bucks a pair........