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zoomzoom

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Everything posted by zoomzoom

  1. zoomzoom
    Very impressive job, I wonder how the LSD functioned long term. That air pocket he spoke of is interesting. My understanding is that the air pocket in viscous couplings is necessary and must be a carefully measured volume, making the process of building them beyond a DIYer. None the less, if it does the job, it does the job.
  2. zoomzoom
    Ive had this issue, like, forever. Here are a few things, partly in response to suggestions above: - Had the TPS replaced a few years ago. - Have cleaned the AAC - Have cleaned the air flow meter Nothing has really fixed the issue. However, try keeping the battery on a charger overnight, and unplug it just before you go to start the car in the morning. A fully charged battery helps to give a strong spark and starter motor. This was enough to make the engine speed pick itself up on occasions. A blip of the throttle has always worked for me though.
  3. zoomzoom
    Hell the stagea just has all the same engine and suspension bits in a family wagon.
  4. zoomzoom
    Well the answer, stock for stock, is the newer M35 running in good condition. But the difference isn't that great unless its all highway driving. There are so many other differences, ie the original cost for buying the car, availability of parts - that the fuel cost shouldn't be the only factor.
  5. zoomzoom
    Im sure there are many experiences, though for the record Ill throw in my 2c: -Fuel cost is higher, though comparable to a falcon or commodore wagon. -I have replaced many wear and tear items, ie shocks, bushes, ball joints. Total suspension overhaul only cost a few thousand (did all the work myself) - The only "non wear" item to be replaced is the throttle position sensor. This is a 96 stagea, about 120k kms, had it for 5 years. Although the car has many areas it could be improved in (refinement, quietness, some more fuel efficiency), I have never regretted the purchased and have used it as a daily workhorse car.
  6. zoomzoom
    S1 C34 - Round town 12-13L/100km, highway 10-11L/100km
  7. zoomzoom
    You need to take the plastic surrounds off the rear side windows. There are pipes in the body in the cavity under the roof racks. Could be the drivers side, but I can't remember exactly.
  8. zoomzoom
    All good now. No cutting needed, but only just. For anyone's future reference, it helps to have 3 jacks. 1 under the diff, one next to each front bushing. It's easier to control the frame that way. Had to drop the exhaust to get clearance, and make sure tubes or wires are being strained.
  9. zoomzoom
    Thanks. Not as easy as I had hoped though. The exhaust would have to come off the lower the subframe enough to get the top collar on. May have to cut the collar to get it in.
  10. zoomzoom
    Ive got some superpro subframe collars which Ive been meaning to put in the stagea. All accounts seem to say its a super easy job, but Ive found nothing step-by-step to give me a heads up. Assuming Ive already got the car raised up: Should I put any support/jack under the differential? Just enough to take the weight off the subframe? Should I unbolt 1 bushing at a time? Will that be enough sag to slip the collar in?
  11. zoomzoom
    Bumping this. Does anyone know anything about Consultan? Ive found references to it, but all the links are dead. Dont suppose anyone has the installer lying around their hard drive? Anything else out there?
  12. zoomzoom
    Probably just subtle differences in the shape of the socket. The tom tom charger probably isnt making contact with the live contact at the back of the socket.
  13. zoomzoom
    There are fairly inexpensive ball joint replacements on ebay, made by a tawainese manufacturer. I dont have HICAS, but have used the other ball joints (2 sets front AWD ones, 1 set of rear ones) and theyve been fine. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-REAR-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-HICAS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R34-R33-89-02-/170765872227?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c2706c63
  14. zoomzoom
    Problem areas includes things like washout areas where fine mud just gets stripped away by rain leaving deep grooves, or simple gradients which are too slippery in the wet.
  15. zoomzoom
    Do you live on a farm or something? When I lived on one, we put gravel down in problematic areas. The driveway was probably 400m tops though. No idea of the cost, we lived near a quarry which was handy.
  16. zoomzoom
    It doesnt take much of a crack to make a problem. They are filled with a viscous fluid, which then leaks out and makes a mess. Ive replaced mine with the large superpro bush, however when I got an alignment done, the caster was still slightly out. If you choose to do it yourself, you will need an hydraulic press, and a selection of large metal tubing or very large sockets in order to press the inner metal sleeve out of the arm. It would be less effort if you purchased adjustable arms with a bush already in them, and then you can be sure the alignment can be done correctly.
  17. zoomzoom
    I had a bad TPS which caused erratic shifting and constant loss of power particularly in 3rd and 4th gear. Also caused a 4WD light to come on. Had the TPS replaced, no problem since.
  18. zoomzoom
    The yellow and red circles right next to each other are 1 bush. Its a teardrop shaped wrap-around bush, while the passenger side (the other yellow circle) is just circular. Its a possible problem, but I would expect the steering to be loose and wandering, if its consistently pulling to one side, it probably wont fix the problem. But if there is play in the steering rack, they should be changed anyhow.
  19. zoomzoom
    I changed many things on my suspension at the time, so I cant be scientific about what did what. However, the steering is sharper, with slightly more road vibrations transferred to the steering wheel. That would be consistent with firmer steering rack bushes.
  20. zoomzoom
    I can't think of a mechanical reason? Its probably not the best on rubber, but polyurethane is fine. Its not really a choice with the 1 piece poly bush. Its a pain to slide it into position as it is, without any grease would be much harder.
  21. zoomzoom
    I have replaced all of mine. I used some non-genuine Lii Chau ones off ebay. They seem to do the job fine, and the price is hard to walk past when you consider the price of a genuine item. However - this particular castor rod arm ball joint requires some metal to be taken off the bottom of the wheel assembly/knuckle. Not much, just a conical bit maybe 5mm high and 2cm in diameter. A large drill bit would work. The top of the ball joint has a different shape to the standard item. THRLLR - the castor arm ball joints could be another culprit.
  22. zoomzoom
    Both of the bushings are visible in this picture, though the passenger side is hard to see because its dark. They are blue, since they are the superpro polyurethane replacements. The one on the drivers side is the one that will keep the steering rack side to side. Try using a prybar to see if it will move from side to side.
  23. zoomzoom
    If the 260RS is the same as an RS4, then there are 2. One of the bushes will stop lateral movement, it ends up becoming hard and brittle and could have play in it.
  24. zoomzoom
    Aftermarket adjustable castor arms. You could try replacing the old bushings with some superpro ones, however that is pot luck whether the alignment will be where you want it.
  25. zoomzoom
    Can you be more specific with the symptoms? "4th is not holding" - does that mean it feels like the internal clutches are slipping/flaring, or is the shifting going haywire eg going up and down in gear and power constantly dropping off. Check the throttle position sensor. If it goes faulty the shifting goes haywire.
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