zoomzoom

Although "bigger is better" is definitely and answer, you may want to do a voltage drop test and try to isolate whether a particular circuit is in fact doing the draining. It may not be the immobilizer, but it could be, in which case and automatic battery charger is very helpful for keeping the battery maintained.

The amount of parts available for the stagea has kept me an owner for 5 years. The knowledge about what parts fit what model stagea is less common than the parts themselves however, so you need to do your homework. Body panels and interior pieces are going to be hard to find replacements for, but engine, transmission ans suspension pieces are everywhere. The stagea is old school technology - RWD straight 6 based platform, which is handy for a workhorse vehicle. Id much rather be working on the stagea's than the legnums engine bay.

Tell that to team hectic:

Have you cleaned the AAC valve on the plenum?

What are your goals for the amount of boost you want to run? The setup in KiwiRST's photo is the simplest and safest, but it also has more turbo lag, in both the responsiveness of the turbo and also the amount of boost that can be made at lower rpm.

I replaced my castor bushings with superpro ones. When getting an alignment done, the castor was slightly different between the wheels but it hasn't proven to be a big deal. However if I were to replace the bushes again I would have just bought adjustable arms.

Could be just about anything in the suspension. Swaybar mounts? Steering rack bushes?

Yes what do you want to know? Model:TGKNREAC34UDA-BACA RS4V (No LSD by the looks here though) Manufactured: 11/96 Colour: KR4 Interior Colour: Z

I warned a group of oncoming cars once, turns out the second car was an undercover HWP car. Either they weren't paying attention or they didn't care, since they didn't chase me. Police, government...anyone with an ounce of power despises the public keeping tabs on them. If the police want to set up in public like that, they have no claim to broad reaching secrecy.

Ah yeah. The "more mass is better" argument. Take a massive classic american car and see how well the mass argument is in terms of safety. When you treat the car as a singular object, you dont take into account the metal behind you. When the engine and chassis in front of you suddenly decelerates, you need the structure around you to stop the metal behind you from wanting to crush into the engine. I dont see how sitting up higher is any better, if there is engine intrusion into the passenger area, youre still at risk of crippling leg injuries. That structure where the passengers reside is where safety technology has made leaps and bounds. If GW arent up to par with technology, why buy something new?

For anyone elses benefit the stuff to the right of the uni-joint and 4 bolts doesnt need to come off, it can stay on the front diff. Housewife are you referring to tailshafts or CV axles? I always make an effort to specify which shaft eg, transfer case -> front diff shaft for such reasons. The pic above is that shaft.

Will keep that in mind. There's no problem driving around with the driveshaft out? No issues with seals?

It could be interesting question. The usual RPM that an engine operates is only 1 factor in its longevity. My first motorcycle spent a good 80k kms above 10k rpm (250cc 4 cyl), and on uphill highways I would have to cruise at 13k rpm. The engine showed no signs of a worn out motor when I sold it. I have driven many kms in new economy cars and I have concerns about some of the GM korean made motors. The straight 6 motor found in the epica seemed to have issues with oil pooling and flooding in the head with extended rpms over 3k.

Clearly that isnt running properly. On my series 1 RS4V, "around town with the occasional boot" would be ~13.5L/100km. Usually 12.5L/100km trying to be economical around town, just under 11L/100km on the highway. 23L/100km is normal if you own a bentley.

If you want to use it for multiple passengers, make sure to try out the rear seat leg room. Theyre fine for children but otherwise the seats are quite high and the legroom is cramped.

Thanks, any good local places (Im in ACT) for sourcing an item or any good sites for buying over the net?

Does ex-work car mean ex-fleet? I wouldnt touch them. I drive fleet cars, and when I look through the log books, most of the trips are 1-4km. The engines have been run cold for a significant portion of their life, perhaps most. I never found the discount on ex fleet cars to be worth it compared to private sales.

Did you check the inner tie rods too? Ball joints that are moving in the socket usually make a fairly dull/deadened rattling sound. Are your caster rods the standard ones? If you have to replace the bushes it may be a good idea to go to adjustable ones anyways, as you may find the caster to be out when you put new bushes in. Im curious about the outer tie rod difference between 2wd and 4wd, since Ive just used generic ones. The important difference I have found is in the length of the inner tie rods.

My front transfer case to diff driveshaft is going to need replacing. What are some solutions? Ive managed to find some second hand pieces on the net, but nothing new. Is it more cost effective to have new universal joints welded to them?

Have a listen to the clip in a thread I started not long ago, and compare if it sounds the same. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/411000-tyrewheel-noise-audio-clip-included/ I too have maxxis MA-V1 tyres and the comment about low speed noise rings true. If you listen to the clip you'll notice a low frequency roar as I brake and come to a stop. My tyres are about 4-5 years old.

You like the handling, but what is the weight difference between the ford engine and the RB, and how much further will it stick out past the front wheels?

Its smokey and the distinctive smell of burning coolant goes everywhere, but thats about it.

The question I have is whether the ECU is changing the A/F based upon the TPS reading or, RPM & airflow readings, or all of them. Probably due to the combination of the boost controller I use, and the weight of the car, even with light throttle I am usually seeing positive pressure on the boost gauge on acceleration. On the long uphill sections I travel on I am sitting on 5psi for minutes at a time. When accelerating I usually accelerate fairly quickly to a cruising speed and get the torque converter to lock up. Ive been experimenting with driving behaviours and fuel econ on this vehicle for years now and its the best fuel economy Ive ever attained (around 12.5-13L /100km round town). Like I said, YMMV.

I really didnt want to chip in because reading "X kms to a tank" really shits me to tears, and usually results in an estimate of 20+ litres of fuel per 100km...Anyhow, either do the instructions that cowboy1600 lists and then bring us the numbers, or don't bother at all. No other estimates are going to be of use. I would however add a few things. Once the pump clicks out the first time I usually wait 10 seconds then add more slowly until the second click just in case it cut out early. Ive had it happen. Secondly, Ive had better results not avoiding boost. I have a auto stagea, which is also heavier than skylines. I had consistently worse fuel economy by disabling 4th/overdrive and avoiding boost. Try using less revs and more boost, thats the whole point of a turbocharger. Why buy a turbo car and not use it? YMMV.

No way in hell should anyone get underneath a car supported by that.