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Certainly check tie rods. Lift up the front wheels and rock them from left to right by hand, if you feel play in them you may have worn outer or inner rack ties. If you can feel up/down/in/out kind of play...well that is much worse. But simple stuff first. Check for worn bushes as well, anything that lets the wheel assembly move about while driving.

Well nah, just the standard replacement items.

Thanks, perhaps you can also give me some hints as to where you're all getting your inner tie rods from too? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/409199-interchangability-of-inner-tie-rods/

Thanks, Ive already fixed the rear shocks up with some new KYB's. Im open to new coilovers on the front, but maybe in future. Need to get the car back on the road. When you say the valving is different, what is the on-road effect going to be?

Probably worth reposting this here: http://www.skylinesa...gable-with-gtr/ From this thread (the stagea suspension thread) I gather a shock meant for a R33 GTR will fit the RS4. Is it going to work well as a stock comfort replacement? I figure it would be stiff going on the GTR, but the stagea is heavier. Any good local places to pick up replacements from?

Hi, Looking for a replacement for these C34 Stagea RS4 V shocks. Some stagea-specific shocks I picked up were too long. Are the shocks off my vehicle a R33 GTR sized unit? Info from off the shock: NISSAN 561100V101 6X04 UNISIA JECS JAPAN

Im replacing the inner tie rods on my 96 stagea. I picked up some cheaper ones off ebay, and although they fit and seemed good quality enough, they were too short to be safe. Now looking to just get standard replacement items. Are the R33 skyline and GTR, R34 skyline tie rods all the same? Here are the old ones off the car, the overall length is important, the outer end of the rod is a 14mm diameter thread. Where are some good places to get replacements?

Its cheaper to buy Australian components like superpro bushes from overseas than it is in an Australian store (like 200% in some cases). Face it, we get ripped off by a bloated an inefficient system.

Thanks, looks like Ill use normal centred bushings and reuse the nissan eccentric bolts, with a couple of washers to space the bushing. Speaking of which, the camber inner eccentric bolts are a bit worn on the washer side, are they a standard item to replace? Thinking of asking the regular places whether they have some, ie supercheap auto, repco, etc.

Hi, I have a superpro bushing kit on the way, has both front and rear suspension bushings. However it doesnt seem to have a toe arm set included, so I was going to pick up another superpro one. Not sure about the skyline, but on my stagea the inner toe arm bushes have a 50mm inner tube as opposed to the 40mm on the other arms. Superpro has the eccentric 40mm tube bushings that would be used on the camber arms, would those work if some spacers/washers were added on either side of the eccentric tube to make up the 10mm gap?

Ive had the $14 (I think) pedders inspection done in the past, and I have to say you get what you pay for. A very brief inspection, and consequently they missed many things. That was one experience at one shop, but keep in mind how much labour time theyre going to allocate to the job at any store. Im not sure on the specific front suspension on your car, since mine in a 4WD it has some different components. Is there a control arm with ball joints on either end with the castor rod connected to that arm? Those ball joints wear and become loose in the socket over time. The castor bushing itself may have play in it. The upper control arm bushings can crack and move laterally on the bolt resulting in metal on metal contact, that should be noticeable with a prybar though.

Like I said they haven't popped out on their own accord however I can imagine being unlucky with a misplaced elbow while working nearby and getting a nasty bump on the head from the bonnet dropping a bit. I've already done some repairs on the rear struts, namely a collapsed bushing between the mounting plate and the strut. I drilled out the riveted piece and used some washers, new bushing and a nut and bolt. Shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate a new plate and use another generic gas strut with some modification. The lower mount should be the same kind of screw in ball that comes with the generic maxima struts for the front, but check the threads first. Might even do that in a few weeks, however my car currently has no suspension attached so I'm a little preoccupied. Will post up if I fix them.

I have used these as well. Maybe the maxima bonnet geometry is slightly different, as these ones seem to pop out of the ball joint fairly easily. I havent had any issues with them, but be careful not to knock them if working on the engine. Next is to find a replacement for the stagea tailgate struts. Might have to get creative making my own mounting plate unless there is something available at a good price.

Did you end up using those $70 ball joints and are they manufactured by Lii Chau industries? If so, how have they held up so far?

Update: These things also fit an RB25DET. I needed to make a new throttle cable holder (the part that bolts onto the top of the intake manifold), and add a few washers to space the pulley properly on the throttle body, but its a straightforward replacement otherwise, and performs just the way I wanted it to. http://www.gktech.com.au/product_detail.asp?id=s145-trtl

Just the standard ECU. I dont mind controlling the boost with my right foot, Ill see if the new pulley can be fitted. Theres other things like the extremely sensitive lockup clutch on the torque converter which unlocks at low throttle. Even going over a bump in the road will move my foot enough.

Yeah thanks, Ill give one a shot. It looks like it might fit an rb25det throttle body.

Has anybody fitted different throttle body pulley wheels to give a more logarithmic response to throttle? eg the first 40-50% of accelerator pedal travel results in 20% throttle opening, at a rough estimate.

Sorry about the late response as I dont get any email updates, though it looks like you have it sorted. I used a socket > universal joint > 25cm extension beam > breaker bar Its a pain to get to, but once you get the bolt to move, then just use a smaller socket wrench. Also for anyones benefit, when you put it back in, remember to use a thread sealant. I used a loctite? branded one designed for sealing water, which sets in an anaerobic environment or by heat. I should also say that even with the coolant that sprayed everywhere, I got most of the workshop manual specified quantity of coolant out. Draining the radiator by itself doesnt replace much of the coolant.

The throttle response going on and off boost may be negatively affected.

In an unpleasant face-full-of-coolant fail, I appear to have misplaced the coolant drain bolt, just under one of the oil lines going to the turbo. Can anyone confirm what the thread and pitch is? I tried a 12mm x 1.5 pitch thread, and I think the width is correct but the pitch isnt.

Actually on second thoughts the tailpipe soot isnt as bad as I thought it was. Nonetheless, still have concerns.

Just trying to diagnose some possible running rich issues. After replacing my 02 sensor, my town economy increased slightly (down to 12.5-13L/100km) but my 96 stagea still was using 12.5l/100km on the freeway which seems odd. I figure its running rich since theres tailpipe soot, and the exhaust pops when you rev it in idle. Now to the ECUtalk oddity: it has a overall trip litre/100km measurement which is always optimistic. eg if I used 12.5L/100km, as measured at the fuel pump, ecutalk will read 10L/100km. So where is the fuel consumption measured from? Could this contribute to too much fuel being injected?

Perhaps unfortunately, the BOV and intake is working just fine, meaning I have a more involved problem with the wastegate or something. For those interested, that little hole on the BOV helps to open the valve. ie when its pressurised the valve opens. No doubt part of the quick release system when you take your foot off the accelerator while on boost. I wouldnt want to block it, even if it is a boost leak technically.

No I wrote that the BOV leaks regardless of the pressure on the connector which goes to the manifold. eg even with 40psi supposedly keeping the BOV shut, the BOV was leaking a lot of air. I can understand why it would let air pass at idle - less than atmosphere pressure in the manifold should allow the diaphragm to bleed. The problem is my car has trouble making more than 6-7psi of boost. You can even run an open wastegate and it wont boost past that (only tried that at low revs) I dont know if its a combination of issues. Could be the wastegate itself isnt holding, but I thought I would do a simple pressure test first, and the car failed.