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What is the difference between the standard unit and a GTR unit? Does it bolt straight up?

I have been pressure testing my intake (1996 RB25DET) as I was fairly sure I had a boost leak, and surely enough on pressurising the crossover pipe, the BOV was noticeably leaking - back into the recirculation pipe that is. My understanding is that the pipe from the manifold should provide enough pressure + the BOV spring to keep the BOV sealed under boost. Upon further testing, it only makes a small difference whether that side of the BOV is massively pressurised (like 40psi), or open to atmosphere. In either case the BOV still leaks when the intake is pressurised. My car cannot create more than 6-7psi so this will hopefully go a long way to fix that. I am concerned that the turbo is working overtime to compensate for any pressure leaking, rather than wanting more boost.

Your example of a muffler repair is irrelevant, I used an appropriate product as intended. Im yet to hear a reason why my repair wasnt appropriate. Im interested in the technical reason, but if on the other hand you want to rationalise a greater expenditure of money for no real purpose then I dont care.

....and this opinion is based on what? I would prefer the seal made by a liquid conforming to the microscopic terrain of either surface, over a moulded piece of rubber being pressured into the metal. My cam seals are just fine with silicone thanks. Also used by workshops and car manufacturers. Be sure to let them know they arent doing it right. Throwing money at something does not mean better. You pay extra for a specifically moulded product of limited production, as opposed to a universal product.

Your car is only a 2000 model, I dont think its necessary to change the cam cover seals. Take the covers off, clean the covers, and clean the seals using something like kerosene. Carefully clean the oily residue around the cams, making sure to wipe the oil and dirt outwards so it doesnt get in the engine. Then reseal using some high temperature sensor safe silicone gasket maker. Costs about $15 vs ~$100 for new seals

I just keep a table on a piece of paper in the user manual for the vehicle. Date/Kms/Description. Lately Ive written everything into microsoft excel as well.

Auto fluid in a manual gearbox?

Well lets be honest, your line of thinking is flawed. The default should not be unlimited power to government then justify why a law should not be implemented. What is it about vehicles raised or lowered more than 5cm that warrants prohibition? Give them an inch and theyll take a mile, they wont stay at 5cm. The only length I want to give them is some hangrope.

You got it 100% right buddy. The cheapest things Ive done to help fuel economy: (cant be scientific about what did what) New O2 sensor - the original one lasted 110k kms so definitely needed replacing Clean out of the induction system, the plenum, and auxiliary air valve on the plenum, which got the idle timing back to where it should be Injector cleaner - skeptical this stuff does anything This all yielded about a 1.5L/100 km improvement. My series 1 now uses 12-13L/100km around town

Is gas really worth it? Ive known a few people that have had conversions done, and none of them said it was worth it in the end. They were all average car users, nothing excessive like taxis. Maybe it would be worth it to buy a factory fitted LPG system, like on a commodore, but otherwise I dont think its a good economical idea. At least with E85 you can retain most of your standard fuel injection system.

I have to admit, I may have been living under a rock, but upon opening this thread it made as much sense as this:

Thanks, any rough idea on prices for different parts and labour, just as a reference?

Im curious about fixing up the suspension on my 96 stagea. I understand its probably well worn out by now, as all the bushings look like the original ones. Keep in mind I am interested in fixing it up for road comfort, not stiffening or lowering the suspension. General things I have noticed are the odd knocking noise here and there, creaks and simply a less-than-smooth ride quality. Also I hear a hiss of air coming from the front when I go over speed bumps for example, though I am not sure whether that is an issue. What are some cost effective measures to return the suspension to its former glory? Are there complete kits of bushings? Could I keep the stock shocks & springs or should they be replaced too?

Oh geez, this is like the male equivalent of diamond rings for women. Cept your woman aint gunna buy these for you

I have wondered about that as well. I wonder if gentle acceleration loses more % of power to heat through the torque converter slippage. I would classify my driving as medium throttle at low revs, making full use of the turbo (that is what its there for, Ive never understood people wanting to drive "off boost" all the time). My city consumption is around 12.5L/100km. Admittedly its canberra which isnt totally stop-start traffic like sydney etc. Oh and cruising is fairly efficient as long as you keep that damn torque converter locked up, which on the S1 at least, it does not like to despite the engine being able to produce sufficient torque at low revs to maintain speed even uphill. I would like to address that with a trans modification but the cost/benefit doesnt really work out.

With stock boost or thereabouts, how much timing can you advance?

For the rear end to lose power it would basically have to be disengaging the transmission? I had a similar issue with a faulty throttle position sensor. Power to the wheels would cut out, I assume because it was receiving conflicting sensor input.

Had to re-read your post, I was going to say $1400 is a little steep for a gasket...lol

2 points of difference in octane isnt much, youd probably expect slight variation anyways from batch to batch of fuel. E85 is like the equivalent of what, 106 octane? I am interested, but what about for a purely economical replacement for premium grade fuel? At minimum you need aftermarket fuel management, maybe larger injectors, dyno time for tuning, and a fuel system clean? Then did you find a 30% increase in fuel usage, and how much do you pay for E85?

17 - 18 inHG would be idling for me. I would expect more vac on the overrun. There could be many reasons. Cracked vac lines is an obvious one. Is your aux air valve letting in too much air? If you have a consult cable, checking the timing at idle is a good way to see if the ECU is retarding the timing to account for too much air entering at idle. I also have a restrictor on my valve cover to manifold PCV so that may account for my higher vac number. That, and an engine in good condition *touch wood*

About 22-23 inHg vac.

My gauge shows about 0.75 to 0.8 bar less than atmospheric pressure, even more if its a downhill slope

So today I parked the stagea on a gradient sloping to the left. I had about 1/4 tank of fuel left, and did notice that the gauge went right down to empty on the slope. No biggie, I thought to myself. Well when I went to start the car again, it wouldnt start. It cranked but only the odd cylinder fired. I had to roll the car in neutral onto flat ground before it would fire. Normal? Just a quirk of the car?

The cam cover to manifold PCV has a 1 way check valve. When the manifold pressure is less than the cam cover, ie under vacuum, oily gases flow from the cam cover into the manifold. When the manifold pressure is greater than the cam cover, ie under boost, the check valve seals, and any blowby pressure is vented out of the other PCV breather pipe back into the turbo inlet. I think that explains what you want to know?

Yes there should be. You can make your own from gasket paper which you can get at supercheap/autobarn/repco etc.