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not too much luck at the local nissan, the guy managed to pull up some info.....he quoted me about 120 for the glass, 250 for the folding mirror motor, although he couldnt be certain on these prices....but he was certain it was 600 bucks for the whole assembly. no guarantee that they could get the parts either

thanks for the part numbers guys but i went down to nissan yesterday and they could not help me. first off i gave them the part numbers for the mirrors that are posted here, eg 96366-4P000 but they could not find any of the parts. secondly i gave them my VIN number the WGNC34001.....etc and also the 6U90WGNC34001.... but yet they could not bring up any info on that VIN either. the guy said when the cars are imported, the Australian authorities stamp on their own VIN, however this WGNC34 number is stamped on multiple places on the chassis the only other plate is the blue one with japanese symbols so i will try again with those numbers

500km around town...assuming you could get 13L/100km around town thats a full 65 litre tank gone. that figure is as good as it gets absolute best economy ive ever had was 13.5litres/100km around town

well i hope thats not directed at me because thats a lot of assumption and plain misreading going on. if for some reason you believe i dont bother to headcheck then re-read having blind spots on the car at all is a concern to me and the comment in another post that all cars have them isnt true. i also drive a 2008 impreza and while it has a tiny rear view, a combination of it and the excellent wing mirrors give it a large unbroken field of view out the back in heavy traffic where i may be need to be monitoring 360 degrees, but keeping my head up and foward, being aware of what is around you but looking where you are going *in front of the the car* is the most important area to place your attention. and btw, i AM a motorcyclist. i can guarantee you i am very aware of other drivers. i was before i even got on bikes in an car with full vision i would never hit anyone around the car because i would know they were there in the first place, then headcheck to make sure they were not moving back to the original point im trying to track down those panoramic rear view mirrors in the stores but i cant seem to find them, has anyone come across them?

ill take that pic down to nissan, though the last time i went down there, when i said stagea they had no idea what i was talking about. which is fair enough i guess. can i expect to be royally bent over on the price of this part?

yep, both wing mirrors are flat i found a stick on curved mirror at supercheap today which i could stick on the mirror, but its not as big as it could be i have seen pics of stageas with what look to be aftermarket mirrors, i was wondering if there were bigger ones around

so heres the problem, no matter how much i adjust my mirrors theres always a nasty blind spot at the left rear window of the stagea, ive been suprised when i do a headcheck to find a small car totally out of view of my mirrors and only just in view of my eyesight. so has anyone had any luck with those extra stick on rear view mirrors or are there any kind of replacements for the standard side mirrors, or has anyone seen those large panoramic rear view mirrors before?

i made a post about this in the ACT forum i think, basically for an australian climate a 40 weight oil is what you want for around town use, either a 0w40 or 5w40 would be fine. certainly not those 10w60 oils, they are too thick for around town, the oil doesnt get hot enough unless your racing the engine. 5w50 is in the middle so it would be ok for a hot climate, but melbournes not that hot right....

6 months ago i paid 16k for a 96 stagea.....yeh i guess i paid a lot but it was top notch condition, unmodified and i didnt have to travel far to buy it. also no waiting for importing and compliance. at least thats what i tell myself

well just pump up the juice going into the motor. more voltage. the thing is when electric motors are rated, they have to be rated at a power level they can sustain indefinitely. if its rated at 30kw then it has to be able to remain at that power level without heat issues. you can increase the voltage for short bursts and run the motor over its rated power level. obviously there would be more wear but thats no different to a IC engine. ie cars dont run around on full throttle all the time, increasing boost in an engine reduces total lifespan etc

interesting point on where we source our power from. i was having this exact debate on another forum, im very pro-electric cars, theyre suitable for so many people. in australia we really waste a lot of natural power sources primarly the sun. we have an enormous amount of sunlight and solar energy falling on this country, we should use it.

is that a full unit or just a radiator component? is it possible to take a picture of it? i maybe interested in both items, message sent about the r33 intercooler

theres a few threads on them here, its been done. at the moment its probably not worth the cost but you start driving a lot of kms in the stagea and petrol hits 2.50 a litre or something......then it might become worth it even later down the track, if fuel cells become mainstream soon enough you could replace the straight 6 with a big-ass electric motor . im thinking off a piece of mining equipment

hi, im looking for a cheap intercooler for a little project. the thing is i just need it as an air heater, so it does not have to hold any pressure, just flow air through it, but it must be made of metal as it will be heated. an intercooler was the first thing that sprung to mind, just a cheap second hand one, a small stock one off any car would be good. so where in ACT would be a good place to pick something like that up?

some weeks im only driving 60 kms in the stagea might have to think of alternate fuel for the stag in coming years, i dont want to sell it!

an important thing to note, is that while you are definitely correct in using thicker oils in racing, for daily driven purposes using too thick of an oil can be detrimental in the worst cases. certainly with cars like skylines, people want to rev the engine occasionally, however the cars may only be used for 30-40 minutes at a time. if i recall properly the best viscosity for protection at high revs is between 10-15 centistokes. for a 10w-60 oil to reach 15cs it needs to be over 120 degrees C, while 10w40 needs to be over 100degrees C. 10w40 only starts to become too thin over 120degrees. the problem is at 90 degrees C, 10w60 oil is still 30cs and too thick for revving an engine. high engine speed and high viscosity can lead to foaming and worst of all cavitation im not an oil expert either, im just saying its important to identify what purpose your oil needs to fulfill, racing protection or daily longevity. for my next oil change ill probably get a synthetic like 5w-40 or 0w40 as the viscosity offers more protection when the car is first started at low temperature. your current shell 5w-40 sounds like a good bet for daily use, perhaps its a good idea to put in thicker oil specifically for a track day, but run the thinner oil when you go back to daily use

10w60 sounds too thick, from memory the correct oil is 5w-30 for a colder japanese climate so here in canberra 10w-40 is probably as high as you should go

yeh it seems odd, as all the tyres were replaced only 3 months ago, and barely 2000kms at that. the only other thought is something to do with the drivetrain...it definitely goes away once the car is warmed up substantially, so if it was a tyre balancing issue, wouldnt it always be there? are there any possible issues with bearings, diffs or attessa system warming up?

ok, i searched for some other threads though i thought id post another since my symptoms are a little different. it seems when i get up near 90kmh or faster, theres a shuddering in the steering wheel. it seems to be temperature related too? if you get up to 90kmh within 15 mins or so of starting the car from cold, the shudder is there, but once the car has been warmed up for a while, it goes away. since the car will be going in for a big service soon i figure i should compile a list of things to check through

any turbocharged and intercooled vehicle should receive a boost in power with cold air temps. depends on how much boost you run

autobahn in belco opposite supercheap auto sells motul turbolight. i paid 50 dollars for it last time for it so i figure ill just go full synthetic next time

even if you were selling a "lemon", the guy could see plain and simple the car he was buying. not some imported car where you only see pictures. if he chose to put money down on the car then he takes the risk/responsibility. this is the way with private sales, and if you have a problem with the risks then dont buy plain and simple. threats are uncalled for as well. next time you need to write up a legal and at least semi formal receipt saying "sold as is" seeing your car being sold isnt like dying, its NOT going to a better place

i tested a few tanks of both vortex and synergy 8000 and ended up with the same fuel consumption (13.5L/100km) so i cant tell any difference

interesting, the last time i posted here i was getting around 14.5L/100km, but ive done a few tanks on vortex and synergy 8000, and im getting 13.5 or less L/ 100kms probably because im taking a different route and avoiding the traffic. getting up at 6am gets old though

Hi, firstly i did look at the stickied thread about getting skylines serviced in ACT, but i figured i would ask for some latest opinions and recomendations on guys who already have experience in working on stageas as i realise theres not too stageas around canberra. im looking to have basic maintenance done, mainly fluids changed, diff oil, ATTESSA and auto transmission flush. thats all for the stagea specific stuff, then i may go for a 100k service on the engine if ive got the car in, though at 93k i dont know if its too early any help is appreciated