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Has your coilpack been blown out? Burning out a resistor isn't a small feat. It looks like a 22 ohm resistor, and it probably had a constant 12v across it to burn it out like that. However if the output was stuck on, that would have burned out the coilpack?

Have a search on the forums, Ive posted up pics and pinouts for the required connections from the ecu to the attesa unit a few times.

The ground wire will have 0v potential between the wire and the chassis, and also 0 ohms resistance between the wire and chassis. Actually, a cheapo meter wont be good enough to measure a few ohms or less, but it would be worth checking how much resistance the ground wire has. ie, there may be a couple of ohms in the worst case. No guarantees on the quality of the wire splicing by the looks of things.

Its not too expensive to do the whole shift kit from MV (or equivalent) while you're at it. You have to remove the valve body anyways to put the welsh plugs in the accumulators. 1st to 2nd may be a little abrupt most of the time, but once you're on the move the downshifts are so much more satisfying. Easily beats many modern vehicles. Id echo what Tom says, the gearbox in standard form can slip due to heat and even between different fluids. The valve body mods eliminate all those issues, assuming the material on the clutches are still in good condition

If you've now travelled 20k kms on the purchase price of those yellow jackets, cut your losses and move on.

Should be a combined unit. The wheel sensors go to it, thus detecting wheel slip for the purposes of both the ABS and AWD. Its tucked in behind some metal panelling located roughly between the rear passenger wheel well and the interior access panel right at the back. Quite a pain to get to

Thanks guys. Power to the sensor was good. I turned it manually and it didn't work at first, then it did, so I bit the bullet and purchased a new one. Price tag is ouchy. By the way I tried the earlier Eugene software, but only on the desktop and never connected it to the car. I actually like the Windows 98 interface of WARI.

Bad CAS symptoms My Stagea has totally died. Firstly I had a few instances of the engine randomly dying, just like fuel cut on an ECU. It happened a few times under acceleration, a few times while sitting at idle, and a few times while cruising. I had the chance to capture the glitches on my adaptronic 440. It was not a overboost cut, nor a leanout protection cut. There are discontinuities in the crank interval right when it dies, ie just before the revs drop the crank interval shoots up from a few ms to 10's or 100's of ms. Now it wont start at all. Before it totally died, it looked like it was going to crank over, but spluttered out several times (all with erratic crank interval data). Before I try replacing the CAS, what are the best ways to test it? Or perhaps the wiring to the CAS?

Could be extra unmetered air making it into the engine. Hence the high idle rpm and the ECU trying to bring the rpm back down with low timing. Or the screw on the AAC valve could be improperly adjusted allowing too much air in at idle, causing the above symptoms. Try adjusting the screw first to bring the idle down.

Just about anything up to and including neoprene roofing washers. Cheap, oil resistant and you can get them in a pack of 50

When installing poly bushings in the rear A arms, I did shorten the split bushings so that the arm would be able to pivot up and down without being able to move back and forth too much. Superpro ones were far too tight (ie too long).

If the adaptronic is controlling the idle, then the idle tab in WARI is the first place to look (or that eugene program, but I dont like it yet). Are you settings close to default values? Another issue could be the fuel and/or ignition map inherently creating oscillations in RPM due to lean-rich-lean cycles in that area of the map. Can you post an ECU file?

Thanks. I also got the drivers and passengers side mixed up reading the instructions. If/when I get them out Ill get a driveshaft shop to do the boots and packing

Cracked CV joints Well looks like Ill need to have my front CV boots changed. Ive done a super dodgy temporary fix until I can plan to pull out the CV driveshafts. https://www.scribd.com/doc/4964854/GTR-Engine-Removal I searched and found the above instructions on how to pull the driveshafts. It seems to say that the passenger driveshaft should just pull out, however I can see a 3x2 bolt pattern, then on the drivers side there is a circular bolt pattern. Before I go committing wanton disassembly, can anyone confirm what the minimum is I have to disconnect from each hub and driveshaft?

Head on over the wagoneers forum for ideas if you intend to modify the vehicle further. There's a few issues with your model (i assume its an auto?) when it comes to tuning. Tuning really brings the motor to life.

Other than money, I would think going to TV would only degrade their work. There's a whole range of executive influence over your work, to make it appeal to a wider audience (at least in their eyes), or make it "family friendly". Marty and Moog have their own vibe and I would hate to see it turned into something fake.

Search for tachometer fix on these forums. I built a new tacho driver from scratch. You'll need some electronic knowledge though. For starters you'll ideally want an oscilloscope to see if the cluster is even getting a pulsed signal from the ECU for the RPM.

If you only take the downpipe to an exhaust shop, you wont be able to tell whether the sensor will foul with the body of the car. Since the wire coming off the sensor points towards the body, it is a fine line between getting the sensor vertical, having the sensor clear the body and still have enough room to screw and unscrew the sensor.

Well, looks like someone knicked off with my 20 year old navigation system and 100v power inverter!

Suspension issues generally involves sticking a prybar wherever you can and trying to move the various joints. If you can feel even a tiny amount of movement by hand, the forces that the car can exert in motion sure will move them. Having said that, ball joints don't cost too much (except if you buy them from Nissan). Ive had ebay aftermarket ones on my vehicle for a good 4 years now and along with tie rods and bushings I really sharpened up the steering feel and stability, where before the car would get pulled side to side by the road surface. It can be hard to say that a single item is the cause. As all the components wear and develop their own play, the total amount of play in the wheel will increase. Another thing worth trying is polyurethane subframe collars (note collars, not bushes). The standard rear subframe bushes have movement in them for road compliance but they get sloppy with age. poly subframe collars reduce the movement of the subframe and hopefully extend the remaining life of the stock bushes. I wouldn't even suggest replacing the full subframe bushes, unless you were doing a full ground up build.

Could be play in all the suspension components, anything that allows the wheel to wobble freely outside of its intended geometry. The front inner and outer ball joints also would be a candidate for replacement at this age. They make a dull constant knocking and rattling when going over bumpy road. The steering rack bush may help the steering feel too, but the rest of the suspension needs to be done first. Ball joints and adjustable caster arms are easy in terms of labour, they are bolt in items. Just hope you don't have to do too many bushings. Ive done them myself but they cost a lot in terms of labour if a mechanic has to do them.

Doh, except the clock is broken. However, the LED display itself may not be damaged, only the clock circuitry.

Arduino could be another (maybe better, simpler) option. You could even use the existing clock LED display and just output a simple AFR number if thats all you need.

This is a very silly project and I like it.

So when you say that the controller cooks the sensor, do you literally mean that the heating control destroys the sensor? If its a heating logic issue, hopefully its something that can be remedied by a firmware update, rather than being a hardware issue.