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So are all the installations a new bung welded at least 1 metre downstream in the exhaust? Is the sensor tip pointing downwards as much as possible? On the stagea at least it narrowed it down to only 1 location: just before the cat (almost at the flange of the dump pipe) pointing up into the cavity. There's also the sensor type. The MTXL seems to be upgradable to the LSU 4.9 sensor. Im just running a 4.2 sensor and it works fine for me. Im going by the principle of "if it aint broke don't fix it". Those are some things to try before writing off the unit. Maybe there is an internal design fault. It does combine sensitive microcontrollers with high current capability, that's always a fun mix.

Ive been running an MTXL for about 18 months and 20k kms. Still running fine as far as I can tell, the gauge is very responsive. As above, it connects digitally to the adaptronic ECU, and is recommended by adaptronic themselves. That was a simple enough choice for me.

Where the windscreen is black at the edges, there should be a very obvious network of elements along the bottom and the sides of the windscreen. Mine are still there after all these years. I believe the mirrors were replaced at compliance, as I dont have the heated mirrors. However it shouldnt be too hard to make your own heating pads if the wiring is still in the doors (as mine is) Still, even when its been -5 degrees Ive lived without them.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464561-stagea-engine-conversion/ Heres some relevant info. You'll have to check whether the power fc outputs the voltage to the attesa. If not then you may need to employ some electronics skills, ie, you could make a splitter for the TPS so it supplies voltage to both the power fc and attesa, however you would need a buffer circuit to ensure that there isnt a voltage drop caused by connecting the sensor to multiple devices.

Just to recap: ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground You could just run your own length of multicore wire down to the passenger side panel in the boot and patch into the existing loom. Easy if youve already got everything pulled up to work on the fuel pump.

See if these are any help

The atessa requires a tacho signal and a throttle position signal (0-5v analogue). Im feeding my atessa unit a tacho signal from my adaptronic ECU, it keeps it working no worries.

Im using a kinugawa actuator, though I had to make my own bracket out of some thick right angle steel. The preload is easily adjustable via a threaded rod, and there's plenty of travel in the actuator, so the boost doesn't creep at the top end like it used to with the standard actuator preloaded on a high flow turbo.

Those cans just seem like an expensive way to make smoke. I know Subaru mechanics use them, but Subaru is the one selling them also. Seems like a better idea to not pump so much shit into the intake like exhaust gas recirc and oil vapour.

From memory the headlights are ground switched. The H4 connector on the harness should have a 12v supply, then either the hi or low beam is earthed to complete the circuit. Have you tested the voltage, and resistance to earth of each pin in each state (ie off, lo, hi)? The 12v supply is probably the right pin if you look at the female connector front on. Also I seem to remember seeing some voltage on other pins, but it dropped when a small load was applied. So you may need to test the voltages between the pins of the bulb when it is plugged in. There may be voltage but not enough to get the bulb to incandesce.

I remember seeing a male to female header bridge for the r34 style ECU pinout, though thats as far as you could go with plug and play. (so you would manually splice the new ECU wires into the bridge, then it becomes plug and play) I spliced my ECU into the stock loom manually. Its not as neat and simple as I would like but its the only practical solution if you want to keep it as simple as possible. In terms of the fuel pump issue, running new wiring is going to be the simpler solution. You dont need to remove much of the front interior, just run alongside the door sills. Then you'll need to remove the bottom part of the back seat, and the boot floor panels. For starters you'll want some upgraded wiring to ensure the least voltage drop at the pump, then you can choose whether to control the pump via the new ECU, or let the stock ECU control the pump via a relay supplying power directly from the battery.

Lol I am a bit far south. But you could learn a lot by measuring with a multimeter. You could try desoldering the current LED and probing the voltage for starters (but you would also need to check it while powering an LED too). It sounds like you don't have any electronic tools like a soldering iron, but its a worthwhile skill to invest in. Also keep in mind: do you know for sure the LED is blown? The LED may be a red herring and some other part of the circuit is non functional.

How many gases per tank?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_wave_supercharger

Why is it a special LED? Is it not just a regular 5mm moulded acrylic LED? If its red they have a forward voltage around 1.8V. Billions of them in the world, no need to hack up existing parts. If I understand right, you want to use an actual manufactured LED bulb? The only LEDs with forward voltages of 12v are big 10w + LED chips used in floodlights. If so, I doubt you would be able to power it from the circuit directly. If it only powered a small LED, thats around 10mA. Also without knowing what circuitry powers the LED (eg constant current driver) drawing too much current could destroy an irreplaceable chip.

A lean AFR may not mean its actually using a small amount of fuel. Unburnt fuel in the exhaust would still read as a lean condition. So that could mean poor injector timing, poor fuel atomisation etc.. Otherwise the timing is just way too retarded for that AFR.

RB20DET to destroked RB12DE

If the other physical items like the air valves are operating fine, are you able to check the timing and fuel map? Look for big changes in timing and fuel delivery in those load/rpm cells. A bumpy map can lead to oscillations in rpm due to lean-rich-lean cycles, or perhaps the same concept with timing.

Is there anywhere around Canberra that re sells odd bits of electronics, like rack mounting components and heat sinks etc? Apparently the Green Shed(s) don't really deal in computer equipment anymore.

Im with the fuel Nazi on this one. Kms "to a tank" is useless and lazy. If you want to make any claims or conclusions based off your consumption you need accurate data in the first place. Ive heard some pretty wild numbers over the years like 150 or 250km "to a tank", putting you in the 20-30L/100km range

You need some some data on whats going on. Do you have a wideband? What ECU are you running and can you show a timing map? Just sounds like a combination of being rich and not enough timing where you drive 90% of the time. Even as an amateur tuner I get better fuel economy than stock. I made sure the open loop map was as close as possible to the target AFRs

With the car off, check the current draw by putting a multimeter in series with the battery (dont turn the car on!). Put it in amps range. Get a baseline reading then start pulling out fuses one by one to see if a particular circuit is causing the current drain. Otherwise the battery may not be getting charged by the alternator, but theres not much point guessing without taking measurements.

Particularly in regards to the subframe bushes: Burning or pressing will depend on whether the new bushings require the existing outer bushing metal shell. Make sure to study your instructions first!

I dont think its going to be doing much. They aren't super capacitors. but since they are 63v rated you could combine 6 in parallel to give a total of 60 millifarads. Thats a lot for low current electronics which may have transient loads, but still nothing compared to the current that is drawn from a car battery

Sorry I was thinking of the inner rod. Supercheap reference number RE752. I got my outer tie rods from ebay. Made by a taiwanese manufacturer called Lii Chau. Theyve held up fine.