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I got mine from super cheap. It should be on their system. $75 or so for the pair

Shit tons of stuff. I remember 10 years ago, I had to find H4H bulbs for my car, ebay saved the day. Since then Ive bought hundreds of items. Much of it is cheap stuff from china. Hell Im even running taiwanese ebay spec ball joints and they've held up fine going on 4 years now. Electronic components are also considerably cheaper compared to jaycar which has exorbitant markups on small items.

Capacitors connected in parallel (you probably have a series-parallel setup with multiple caps) will help to smooth any voltage fluctuations when there is a high transient load on the battery. When connected right at the battery, they can be used to help start the motor, especially in the cold. But those capacitors dont look big enough for that purpose. Can you read any values off them? You would need at least tens, preferably hundreds of farads (thats farads) to achieve that end.

Just checking what other nissan models used the same wheel as an S1 stagea? R33, but maybe also a maxima etc?

My steering wheel is getting a little worn, especially where my hands grip the wheel. Im weighing up a few options. Regular slip on covers aren't my favourite option, but a step up from that is closer fitting stitched on covers, usually matched to specific wheels (due to varying wheel spokes and shapes etc) A total removal and recover is probably out of the question due to cost. What other nissan models used the same wheel as the S1 stagea? Or R33 I guess. Open to any other suggestions.

Both the "grain of wheat" bulbs and silicon caps can be purchased easily off ebay, however its hard to see why you wouldnt go with white leds (SMD variety). They are brighter and more efficient. In any case keep the plastic part of the lights. The bulb is only loosely wired into it, its the part that is meant to be replaced. I had to retrofit LEDs into the original plastic mount to work

My suggestion was attempting to find a completely reversible and non-destructive temporary measure. Buying a second set of headlights seems like a pricey solution.

Maybe research temporarily fitting a halogen to the socket. Is it a D2S or D2R? I think people have modified a H7 to fit in. If you can find a low wattage globe, even better. Then you would just need some intermediate wiring between the H7 and your power source. The light would obviously be crap, but may be enough to get you by roadworthy.

Everything in the intake tract - air filter, airflow sensor, intercooler, throttle body, auxiliary air valve at the rear of the plenum.

Ill be very interested in the results. Robzilla - do you have any further testing on those lights? One issue is the light pattern, for example and LED retrofit can appear brighter than a halogen if the light pattern concentrates the beam right in front of the vehicle, but once you're moving you'll find the light isn't projecting down the road where you need to see things. To make matters worse, your eyes adjust to the pattern of the light, and the bright patch in front of the vehicle can reduce your sensitivity to whatever light is being projected further down the road.

Ive used lots of cheap T10s . The main issue with the cheap chinese variety is that they drive the LEDs quite hard which leads to failure sooner and more often. You can also expect to have more of them flicker very early on. I now build my own lights from components, my favourite being 10w chips. There are now quite a few phillips branded LED replacements for bulbs, more expensive obviously.

In terms of the headlights, how effective do they actually need to be at night? (ie is it a daytime vehicle and you just need headlights for regulation/show) I decided against them as pretty much everything I read indicated a poor light pattern. When you look at a LED retrofit for a reflector housing, the problem is apparent. Much of the "bulb" has to be a solid heat sink. A pity because I like the technology, but the best solution would seem to be a LED chip with a lens to control the light pattern.

On an S1 at least, the "flashing led" is actually on the PCB of the ECU, and is visible through a small hole in the case of the ECU. Also extremely difficult to see when its tucked away. Youll also need to check it while the engine is running after you've noticed a 4WD warning light on the dash. After a rash of 4WD errors I had, I drilled a tiny hole in the interior trim. Then I can stick a small camera, like a phone cam up the hole and record the flashes.

Supercheap auto/parts place. Ask for gtr tie rod ends

Some additional control of the led lights would be ideal in most cases, for brightness etc. If I had some spare time and money I would probably use an arduino to take care of the speedo, tacho fuel and temp gauge. I had to rebuild my tachometer circuitry, but it can't be correctly calibrated without some additional mapping, which the arduino could provide.

I have an aftermarket head unit with its own internal lighting, which I didn't change. The climate control unit has a number of "neo wedge" bulbs. Normally they take tiny "grain of wheat" incandescent bulbs. I think they are 5mm. You can get LED replacement sets on ebay, however I found that they did not screw in, and so I had to retrofit the SMD LED and resistor into the existing plastic bulb holder. It would be important to use SMD LEDs in the screen area, as you want maximum light dispersion. A regular lensed led will point the light directly downwards, but they may work OK in the lights for the buttons. The ashtray light takes a T5 wedge bulb, and takes a little effort to dismantle. The shifter light takes a T10 wedge bulb, but it must be a short one otherwise it wont screw in. I ended up adding a resistor to dull the light, as it was too bright. Pro level: lastly I replaced the blown "grain of wheat" bulbs in the auto transmission power/snow switch. That requires dismantling the switch itself and creatively shoehorning both an led and resistor in each bulb slot.

The lights in the dash cluster are all accessible from the back of the cluster (which obviously means removal of a few interior pieces...annoying I admit). There are T5 sockets on the back of the cluster which twist out and accept a T5 wedge bulb.

The numbers painted on speed limit sign create a magic field which neatly encompasses the area of the road. The speed limit fairy then decides whether to kill you if you go over that number.

Bit late? Lets just put this thread back in the archaeological dig site whence it came.

How about waggots?

If you're like me and you are OCD about knowing what it done to the car, it can be worth doing yourself. For example I remember that I needed to modify the 4 bushes (8 split bushes) that go in the A-arm at the rear with the ball joint. They were superpro ones, and the 2 halves were a little long, so they poked out of the A-arm shell too much, and were extremely tight in the subframe. Not only would I expect the bushings to eat themselves, they'd probably squeak like crazy after a while. If there's a mechanic you can trust to spend that much attention to detail, then it may be worth the labour.

Pressing bushes out of large cast pieces can be hit and miss. Sometimes the shell just wont let go, and youll just end up bending things if you go stick it on a 20 ton press. The easiest way to remove the rear ones is to heat the inner tube to separate it from the rubber, pull it out using a bearing puller (or even some threaded rod and creative use of spare metal tubes and sockets), then use a reciprocating saw to SLOWLY cut through the inner shell until youre able to knock it out with a hammer and punch. You'll need a lot of patience, but if you use the right tools, it makes the job far more pleasant. Then just stick aftermarket arms on there, because no one wants to do twice the amount of bushes.

What exactly from supercheap did not fit? The socket looks like a regular t10 or t20, can find tons on ebay.

Theres a drain plug on the lower part of the engine block, turbo side. Its a bit late now that you've bought the flush, but I think its a waste of time and effort, since you should probably drain the whole block if you're adding a cleaner. Giving the motor a good run at higher rpms should shake up a bit of extra sediment in the coolant, then just drain the radiator from the bottom radiator plug. You shouldnt even need to raise the car to get to the plug. Refill with coolant and demineralised water.

2 years sounds pretty good. Years ago I purchased a chinese head unit that stopped working almost immediately. Live and learn.