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Double post

To be fair, the trend towards running a hotter engine is due to reasons of efficiency, so technically more power for a given rate of fuel consumption. But efficiency and potential to create power are different. Since you're talking max killawasps, the ability to consume fuel and release energy from it at the highest rate is prioritised over efficiency.

What is it that you wish to upgrade? In terms of strength, it is better to have an easily replaceable part as the weakest link, in case you hit a gutter for example, instead of damaging the steering rack. Be sure the part has matching threads and is the correct length. While the threads seem to be the same across many models of skyline and stagea, the lengths vary. Ensure there are plenty of threads inserted into the outer tie rod, otherwise you risk it ripping out. I used GTR tie rods from supercheap for about $70, but again check the length for your application.

Goody. Step up from a slushbox to a rubber band box.

Since the stagea is dead and its replacements are all fat tall barges I doubt the levorg will have much competition in that regard.

Pity I didnt see this earlier. I guess its all working now? I went through a bit of a headache getting a standalone going on a s1 stagea. ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

If you are set on the skyline theme, why not start with a GTS4 and make yourself a frankenGTR?

About 2 litres, but you can always get a boost extension tank to hold more.

I read enough about dual hi/lo beam h4 HID conversions to put me off the idea. How is the light pattern, glare, beam focus, etc? I ended up sticking with halogens, though I made my own heavy duty wiring harness and Im using slightly higher wattage bulbs. Nothing crazy like 100+ watts though (which would probably ruin the housings). Results have been good - the low beam is much brighter, but has a very distinct cutoff

IME using white leds behind a red filter will give a pinkish red. Its not a proper brake light colour at all. Much better to use red leds in the first place. Also those prices at jaycar are criminal. No way is a single 5mm led worth $1.90 per led (bulk price too!). I dont even bother with jaycar anymore unless there is a single item I need right away, the prices are far too high. I have found regular lensed leds to be quite reliable from china off ebay. We're talking 100 of them for about $2. As long as you drive them conservatively, perhaps <50% of their rated current, they should be fine for many years. I have never had a regular lensed led start flickering (and eventually fail), unlike SMD leds which I have seen many times. I suspect part of the issue is that ebay led light packages come with too low resistors, and so the lights are being driven harder to be made brighter, but at the expense that a higher % of them will fail.

Ever seen supercapacitor car batteries? Extremely high "CCA" due to low ESR (equivalent series resistance) in the capacitors. Also very light, and has no liquid to spill, virtually unaffected by temperature (within specs of the capacitors) and virtually unlimited charge/discharge cycles (you'd never reach them in the lifetime of a car). Only downside is much lower amp/hour figure compared to chemical batteries.

Not only will you find disgusting water splashing in the passenger footwell, you'll find your car filled with mosquitoes!

Sounds like a bit of a cop out on the part of the workshop. Ball joints are commonly replaced wear items. I don't know the M35 suspension components off the top of my head, but I there are a few listings on ebay. I wouldn't be surprised if there were common parts with infinitis.

Whole new arm? Why not just press the old ball joints out replace them?

Yep, as above there is plenty of airflow to aid in response time. The rest will be up to having a good sensor.

I installed my air intake temp sensor on the rear of the crossover pipe just before the throttle body. There is a section which can be filed flat and then drilled and tapped. Its a very clean install. I was using a standard bosch? temp sensor.

These used to be better priced, but now that the exchange rate makes them over 1k (which also means importing costs from UK) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Poly-SuperPro-Bush-Suspension-RG-Kit-For-WC34-Stagea-RSFour-RB25DET-Series1-/150561524462?hash=item230e2a8aee:m:mmdeQRl7joq1xYkVuGGga0g That is the route I went a few years ago. If I were to do it again, I would recommend adjustable caster rods (saves you pressing a bush, can adjust caster), adjustable upper arms (again (saves you pressing a couple of bushes, plus gives more accurate camber), then you only have to change the bush in the heavy duty cast upright knuckle (if you have adjustable upper arms, theres no need for an eccentric bush here) Also have you changed the inner and outer ball joints? All this info applies to 4WD suspension.

Probably because there is preload on the clutches, you can't really have 2WD. Also if the ATTESA registers a fault and the 4WD light comes on, it is unlikely to clear while the car is running, only after turning it off and on.

I know an audi owner whose brand new audi would use so much oil the low oil light came on between service intervals.

Has anyone released full details of what VW did? I know there was a second tuning map. Would it be much different to most retuned vehicles in the modified car world running a lean economy tune? (which results in higher NOx emmisions) Why isn't there this much fuss when dealing with mechanical faults on vehicles that negatively impact safety and cost the owner more?

Im using an innovate MTX-L wideband, connected via serial data to my ECU. Its been in for 9 months & 10k kms, and still is running fine. Placement on the stagea was tricky, getting the sensor 1m from the turbo, but also as vertical as possible. I welded the bung just before the cat flange. Did you get the sensor tip pointing downwards enough?

My exhaust had a great escrape the last time I took the stagea on a bush trail. Apart from the ground clearance issues, the ATTESA works fantastically. No need to even use the 50/50 split button, the computer sorts it out.

I thought about making a double port actuator with the billet kinugawa actuator I have. It wasn't necessary in the end, but it looks fairly easy to do. There's a hole in the casing behind the diaphragm that could easily be tapped, then screw in a barbed fitting.

The internal folding mechanism of the mirror probably has a bit busted off on the locating mechanism. While the gears can be taken out, the locating mechanism is a press fit one-shot manufactured deal and was impossible to take apart and put back together on both s1 and s2 mirrors. At least I wasnt game to bust it open and fabricate something.

This thread writes itself.