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Also it might be running the low octane map with 95, meaning less timing and so you'd expect to use more throttle and boost just to get the thing moving.

Need a proper L/100km measurement first. For the driving you describe, 13L/100km or slightly less would be normal.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/walbro-fuel-pump-kit-intank-walbro-gss341-255lph-nissan-180sx-rps13-silvia-ps13-skyline-r32-stagea-wgnc34-p-1079.html Run the pump directly from a new wire to and from the battery, activated by a relay. Search for the fuel pump rewire mod. Easy

Dunno why but Im kinda hungry for The land of goat sphincter rings delight now.

Id certainly love to check out your stagea sometime. In terms of lights though, I have found something. Maybe a doh moment. The bulbs I have in there at the moment are blue tinted osram ones. They are only 60/55w though. There are now up to 130/100w bulbs available. However, is it safe to run higher wattage without melting the housing? Should I run a new relay with some heavy wiring to the battery?

The high beams are OK (could always be better) but the low beams are a bit dim. I get a bit edgy in canberra when I have poor illumination of the roadside, too many kangaroo accidents around.

I was just getting to option 4b - LED replacements for globes..... Just to clarify are you suggesting retrofitting H4 LEDs? Or putting LEDs in the foglight spot? I was under the assumption that while LED headlights are going to be the easiest way to go, the light output is still similar to a halogen. Im sure high end ones are great.

Option 4? LED light bars. These all look quite tacky, as I would literally be tacking them onto the front of the car, however it would be a simple affair to hook them up the the high beam circuit.

Ive been thinking about upgrading the headlights and weighing up the pros and cons of a few options. So I wanted to gather some opinions on what successes people have had. Option 1: staying halogen. (safest and legal) What are the best globes out there for best light output? I think I have some of the narva +whatever ones in there. Put them in years ago. Would there be any benefit in creating a new relay circuit so the headlights receive full battery voltage? (there may be a voltage drop through the existing wiring with more powerful lights - have not tested yet) Option 2: HID conversion (fairly simple and inexpensive, not legal, more obviously defectable, more glare) How is the light pattern with the stagea reflector housings? I would like more light, but don't want to be a flamin mongrel to other drivers. There is obviously a quality difference between kits, with differing bulb shields to reduce glare. Option 3: high beam only upgrades. (custom fabrication, no guarantee of effective outcome) Has anyone done anything useful with the inner foglights on the S1 headlights? For starters the, the headlight will have to be dismantled in order to remove the yellow filter. While there is a central cone of light coming out of them, there is a lot of light dispersion. However these would never be on when facing oncoming traffic, perhaps they could function as extra driving lights?

The boggo standard VF is still quite good, but the 3.0L is too slow. The auto can be a bit of fun in manual mode, but if I owned one I would be investigating shifting upgrades (perhaps done by software now rather than a clunky valve body upgrade?) The suspension is also quite impressive in terms of comfort, but the stock tyres are total shite. Get some stickier rubber on there ASAP. I am tempted to call it dangerous in the wet.

Sounds like you need to take a log of sensors with the consult cable. The change in rpm would correspond to some change in timing, air or idle control.

Pretty much my thoughts too. While the process of creating then combusting hydrogen gas in a purely car based system has an efficiency penalty, if it can increase the efficiency of the petrol combustion, you may see a net gain overall. There are people who swear by it, but I havent seen conclusive evidence. The fact that manufacturers don use it is not necessarily an argument for me. Their priorities are different to an enthusiast who has built their own system. (ie maintenance, filling with extra fluid, emissions regulations)

Nevermind, I read your title.

I have some diagrams pieced together for R33 GTR, GTS4 and C34 ATTESA ECUs, though Im not sure that will help for a 2WD application

I use the Walbro GSS 341 wired directly to the battery. I can also confirm there are no fuel heating issues.

There's always options if you think outside the box.....or bonnet.

For the uninitiated in the M35 ways, what is the problem with a standalone ECU piggybacked to run the injectors and coils? When I was setting up my adaptronic, they originally assumed I had an M35 and nonchalantly gave me the base map, stating they had done them before. I assume there are many more ECU safeguards when it comes to errors.

Don't bother with any tuning solution that you cannot make changes to yourself.

NA 4 cyl 1.8L skyline?

Really? I have a stagea but the cluster should be very similar. Theres a bulb for every shifter position. Otherwise how would it light? The plastic knobs on the back of the cluster are T5 bulb holders. Its an opportunity to change them all to LED if you so desire (white light makes the dials blue, due to a filter inside the cluster) Just dont put an LED in the low fuel light.

Make sure to put an inline fuse near the battery when you wire the relay in.

Is that small hole at the back really the exhaust outlet?? It looks like an o2 bung opening!

If the clutches and bands are genuinely slipping, its hard to imagine it lasting years in that state. You'd be wearing the friction material off, like riding the clutch in a manual.

Yes, but the real question: should the veyron owner get a stroker kit for better response?