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Im running a GSS 341. It had the same layout as stock, with the inlet at the bottom, but it was thinner than stock. So it needed some fuel safe rubber wrapped around it as a bushing. Its the one listed on kudos motorsports as fitting an S1 stagea.

Well I like messing around with the lights, but I think even with the red, green and blue all on making "white", it would still be a defect magnet as red and blue at the front of a car make the cops rather territorial about their colours. Even many "white" leds tend to be towards the blue end of the spectrum (8000k or higher), and people have claimed to be defected or fined for that.

Thats an abnormal sound is it? Bugger. Lol. Looks like I should do something about that then.

Ive done nearly every bushing. They suck. But since youre doing the strut bushes (castor bushes?) they arent too bad, but you will need access to at least a 5 ton press, plus lots of bits of metal pipe to press the old bush out. Hence why I suggest aftermarket arms. Saves doing the bush, plus it will be adjustable. Rocker gasket plus spark plugs are an easy DIY job. Shocks are more involved. I assume you'll be buying struts which means you'll have to compress the springs safely to take apart the whole assembly. Compressed springs are dangerous if not done safely, but I actually prefer to do them myself. If you do take them apart, make sure to install a good new dust boot (I installed a dirt bike boot), and probably replace the bushing on top of the strut mount plate (and possibly the one underneath).

Walk away from that quote. $245 for 1 set of bushes? Keep in mind bushes are labour intensive so factor in plenty more for labour. It sounds like they want to replace the whole suspension strut assemblies to save on their own labour time. Rocker cover gasket + spark plugs will cost you $150 in parts tops. Say no more. If you can't do the labour for the bushing yourself, spend a bit more on a good aftermarket item with the bushing already in there. How confident are you at DIY?

So what you're saying is that if you put 2 of these 1.5L 3 cyl engines in a line, you'd have an rb30, which is the superior option all round.

Ive currently got metallised house tint on my sunroofs. Has been perfect for years, was a free offcut, is a nice colour, cuts out the radiant heat. They look like mirrors from outside the car. If it can sit on a house window in the sun all day I don't see why it shouldnt be fine on a car.

My sunroofs have had some variety of tint on them for 10+ years. Ive never heard of this problem before.

The superpro ones should have negligible effect on NVH, and they certainly shouldn't be squeaking. There's no reason to live with that.

I lubricated all my superpro bushings with boat grease when I installed them. None of the rear control arms squeaked in the 3 years they've been on there. I also put grease nipples on the front arms and have lubricated them since, but who knows if that was ever necessary.

Its about $10-$15 for a short lead. Also more of a pain in the ass to check the timing that way, but worth the extra effort to set something so crucial.

Sweet launches in the wet, visiting a farm where the driveway is made of mud and cow poo.

2000 would be near the last of the C34 chassis. S1 is 1996 and 97, S2 is the 1998+ updated model with the neo engine, and the option of a turbo manual awd. You can usually spot them in pictures with the addition of 2 extra lights on the grill.

Would suck if it was just a bad tank of fuel.

Solid state relays would have a very low saturation voltage. I have one which is supposed to be "fully on" at about 3v, but will still pass through 96% of the source voltage at 1.6v. Its like an extremely high gain amplifier. You would be best using some other amplifier more suited if you were intending to vary the voltage. An SS relay works very effectively with PWM however. If you have a PWM controller that cannot supply enough current for a particular fuel pump, it can be used as a gate for a SS relay, but be sure to have a good heat sink for the relays to go on. They get quite hot once you start putting 10+ amps through them.

Kinugawa makes an actuator where you can replace the springs to suit the boost level you want to run. I am using one on a hypergear turbo, although I had to make a new bracket in order to mount it to the turbo. Its supposed to fit a stock turbo though. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Adjustable-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-R33-/291501973534?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43dedf201e

As mentioned above, make sure to disconnect the actuator arm from the wastegate flap to ensure the flap itself works

Digital trickle chargers are cheap. They will monitor the battery voltage, its response to a charging current and then maintain the battery as needed. Set and forget.

The point is the wastegate may not even be opening sufficiently due to a physical obstruction or a problem with the actuator.

What happens when the boost controller is removed wastegate is plumbed directly?

This is going to be speculation, but they surely can't be getting maps from a single source. When tuning a volumetric efficiency ECU, the fuel map should be reflective of the breathing characteristics of an engine. Which is why its puzzling that the fuel maps look so different from the stagea base map, r33 base map and my current fuel map (which matches the AFR targets very closely) I have seen at least 1 tuner get their desired AFRs by just tuning the VE fuel map, where as the calculation takes into account both the target AFR and the VE for the current load/rpm. This act of tuning "your way" rather than the way the ECU is designed to be programmed makes for unintended results later. I know that the R33 base fuel map will be lean missing below atmospheric load, and rich coughing above atmospheric load on my vehicle. But I should have the same engine as an R33, hence the mystery. The timing map is safe enough and able to run the engine. But as for starting and getting to the tuner? Well it took me ages to figure out it was injecting hardly any cranking fuel, but then running like a coal powered train at idle. Perhaps there should be an adaptronic sticky for sharing tuning tips. I have almost fully tuned my ECU back to stock levels of smoothness and reliability (eg cold starts, transient throttle, throttle transition etc), but its been 6 months of work.

The base maps were virtually unusuable on my stagea. Too lean off boost, far too rich on boost. The whole timing map is about 7-8 degrees retarded from where I am now. One that they sent specifically for the stagea was horrendous. It was probably idling in the 9:1 afr range. I gave them feedback about it, though I dont think it made any difference. Pity, their customer service is usually very good, and very helpful. But the base maps are terrible. You have to be prepared to do a lot of self tuning.

Im not so sure on those plastic extender bits hanging off the bottom. A simple cube shaped relay with a flat bottom and the pins protruding from there would probably be the best bet.

Relays should have a standard harness, coming in 3 and 5 pin varieties. Can't remember the exact shape of the genuine nissan items, but perhaps a generic automotive relay from jaycar would fit in.