KezR33

Just curious on what everyone's opinion of the best P plate legal track car there is out there. The criteria is: 1. Must be p-plate legal. 2. Must be affordable by your typical 18-21yo enthusiast. No S2000s, or track dedicated cars with trailers and separate daily drivers. 3. Must be a good car to actually learn in. No automatic cars, etc. Modifications are allowed if they're reasonable and apart of the affordable budget (say 10-15k, bonus points for going cheap). Things I'm looking for are decent brakes, power, weight, handling, whether or not it has an LSD, etc. I'm not actually looking to buy another car, I'm just bored and figured I try get some discussion going on the NA boards beyond which exhaust should I buy or how can I get more NA power.

I'm on late most nights. I finish work at midnight so I'm usually on after that.

LS1 conversion, easy 300rwkw, or you could search for a cheaper option.

Probably a dumb question, but how do I fill in the first part of the disclaimer. I/We ...........Kieran............. of .....................?????................... being then entrant/s.... What do I put in the second part? My suburb, family name, car club? Its probably something really obvious I'm overlooking.

Hey guys, A friend of mine recently lost his license and plans to lock his R34 GT away for 6months but was concerned about any damage he might do to the car if its not driven. Anyone have any suggestions as to what he can do before he locks it up, or anything he should be wary of once he starts driving it again? Only thing I can think of is: Lock it up in garage out of the weather. Disconnect the battery. Baby it till you empty that first tank as the fuel might go stale. Is it worth starting up every month or two and running for a bit, or even getting someone else to drive it around the block, or will 6 months do nothing? I understand these cars often sit for much longer periods in Japan before coming here. Thanks.

No kidding. Con someone you trust into driving you there and back so you can sleep on the way.

Hey Bec, This is just after exams so I'm looking forward to an awesome weekend! For the moment can I book a room for Brad and myself, staying both nights, separate beds please. Cheers.

When I bought my new tyres about a 2 weeks ago the dealer said the KU36 was being discontinued, I don't know how accurate that is, jus what he told me.

I recently bought KU39 as I couldn't get a hold of any KU31's and KU36s have too much grip. I ruined a set of KU36's at my last DECA as I have yet to learn the basics of braking (well, I know the basics but in the heat of the moment you forget ) and fried the soft, warm tires on a rough piece of track. I want to learn my limits on street tyres before I push the car on anything better. Having said that though the KU39's do feel pretty good, although I've only used them for daily driving so far.

I've never been beaten by a 6 pool as a Zerg player. The key is to scout early when going against zerg/random and assess whether or not to get an early spawning pool yourself. Remember you have that extra time it takes them to run across the map, and if they do get there early just run your drones around the hatchery. Without speed those lings will be lucky to kill 2 drones before your lings/queen/spinecrawler are ready. The real problem begins when they 6 pool you AND send a drone across to build a spinecrawler in your base, that's always fun but easily countered if you're quick with your own drones to kill it.

Zerg get their queen though which is a buff as f**k unit in the early stages.

I don't use MSN. Just add me on SC under [email protected] if you want a game. I'm on fairly regularly as I've got a boatload of assignments coming up and have able time/reason to procrastinate.

I'll play.

A) You're posting on the NA forums. B) Maybe they put the wrong tranny fluid in?

I actually can, lol.

It hides my shiny HPC aftermarket extractors from the piggies' eyes.

Tell them you want stock rims and see if they'll dump the price.

Cheers guys, got tomorrow off so I'll have a look then.

Hey guys, I'm heading out to my first drift day next month and need some advice on what rims I should chuck on the rear. My aims are: 1. The rim itself must be cheap, I don't care how to looks. So long as it strong and does the job. 2. Optimum size for cheap/plentiful tyres. I don't mind buying new tyres if they're dirt cheap small, narrow Chinese pieces of shit. 3. Clears rear brakes, they're only 1 pot so I can't imagine much not clearing them. The Supra has the same stud pattern as most Skylines (5-stud), and the Supraforums has been very unhelpful so I'm asking here. I've heard older Falcon stockies fit nicely, is this true? Also, what size is best for drifting? I was thinking something like 15" with a narrow width so tyres are cheap, and traction is minimal, but is 15" too small for drifting? Can I just increase the pressure to stop the tyre flexing when going sideways? Finally where can I find rims like this? I couldn't see any on ebay, do tyre retailers keep old rims when people put aftermarket ones on? Cheers.

Just be honest, say you love the car, have the cash ready, but you can't afford anymore than $13k. They'll either drop the price and sell it, or they won't be able to drop the price and you walk away. They are a business after all, it's not some private sale where the owner is desperate to sell, these guys need to turn a profit.

Base it in the 90's and fill it with R32's, R33's, Silvias, RX7s, Evos, Supra's, 300zxs, etc. Make it somewhat realistic too. E.g. It would've been so much sweeter if that Ferrari smoked the Supra off the line only to hear the spool of a ridiculous turbo winding up and send the Supra flying past.

Wow, I'd say it was worth $15,000 at least. Then again I haven't been paying attention to the market lately. If I were in the market for a car I definitely snap this up if it passed a mechanical inspection.

Quick update, I'm seriously addicted to this game. Best $14 I ever spent.

Hey guys, Jumped in my car yesterday to find a dead battery, after jump starting it and driving it around for a bit, I get in again today and once again its flat. I don't think the battery is that old, and its quite large so I don't think it needs replacing (anyway to test this?). Ever since DECA my head unit has been playing up somewhat, I suspect this may be the cause of power loss. Any idea what could be draining the power, or is it more than likely in need of replacement? Appreciate any support.

Fixed. Worth was the wrong word.