banshee_04

Only wanted original nissan but your stated $500 for a used set in email me thinks is a bit ripe so no thanks:), I'll wait, but thanks for your reply anyway.

Wanted Your used nissan Original R34 Eyelids any colour or nissan part # as catalogue does not list full part # contact me at [email protected]

Ahh! What is this noise (rb25 r34) Loose bolts turbo? Yep! Did them up, Ahh! Still there, Hint: does it on idle, tap the accelerator, gone?? Hard to find but seems to be seals on throttle motor (tract control) when engine is finally hot and under vacume there's that squeely noise. Anyone had this one before??? Cars done 94000klms just started. Those Whitty People with the flashy lights pulled us over "Whats under there mate a dead Cat" HA HA didnt even know what he was looking at any way. $79 Part of 2007 Label still affixed (I was going to scratch it off eventually), $200 Didnt like My HKS Induction.

i know its been a while but just be in mind a normal style car battery does not like full discharge recharge cycles and can go dead quite fast if so if your working on your car or leave it sitting around pop the charger on wont hurt it as its used to constant charge regulation from alternator. my r34 if left for 2-3 weeks starts dieing in the arse due to the stuff thats draining away while its off. and heres something my original bosch battery lasted 7 years...... go figure.

Best example, older Ford Laser fitted with mazda engine cu cu cu cu sound when taking off under load more pronounced when hot days, yours should have knock sensors my rb does when it gets close to the point of it going to happen timing gets backed off. In my older cars that didnt have mechanicals suited for unleaded some times even when fuels a bit dodgy on a warm day it would ping its head off, (might have been that high compression shaved head i had, a thicker gasket did the trick even if it went a bit weaker) go to another brand servo put some high grade fuel in no more pinging, so there is a few factors to consider. If yours does check your sensors< still got factory management? If you dont hear anything your probably ok but if your worried go to a good workshop as they have equipment that would show if its abit out

Check if holding pressure, connect inline fuel pressure guage, get friend turn on for you watch fuel pressure rise and hold? or drop off? check drain back valve, ok? and right way fitted, install one see what happens?? if still no good look further was ok before but not now, whats the stock pump/internals like compared to repacement, bigger in/out pressure may drop to rapidly before your turning key to start?

gone belly up? lift cover on alarm box check for any electrical and or burnt looking bits or parts, some times you can get dry joint where the part soldered on to the board wasnt heated corectly and a bad joint (high resistance) forms over time resulting in non contact. Check manually for loose parts. Clear away old solder,Resolder heat part leg at same time as board or where connected aplly solder when beaded chrome appearence remove heat allow cool check fitment. Also maybe the siren bit some times has a backup rechargeable battery that may have failed/leaked check both spots see if one fitted if no good replace. Check wires where they go in to the unit itself if they are screw in they may not have been soldered before fitted and some times when screwed up the screw cuts thru the wire (power now only carried by a couple of strands instead of alot) hope that helps banshee_04

Oh Yeah don't forget you will need to remove the hicass warning light from dash as it will flash at you after you change adjustment, also if you remove and replace battery it will realign itself and you will loose your setting and need to reset to factory, remove replace battery (so it goes back to original position), reset to previously adjusted setting.

Ok well better go buy your self the $500 plus factory manual with insert suppliment and learn how the hicass is adjusted, at exactly after 110kph mine makes a bit of a differant movement so i dont have to stear as much for the same turn. Quite common in japan usually done for better drifting, too give you an idea to get my tail out i only have to yank 1/4 of a turn if that let go move wheel to counter postion hold with throttle, there is also alot of other things going on that effect how your cars going such as those naughty traction sensors etc etc, have a look at the rear rack there is adjustment on rack if not get a preprogramed ecu from say mines (VX ROM) comes with matching injectors tell them you want for circuit 1 to 1.2 Bar Boost should be sufficient its direct plugin factory redone computer so every thing works as it should. If you dont have Adjustable links coil overs(HA type) upper arms etc get some and learn to do your own wheel alignment then start making changes and adding a few more degrees till you get it right for how you want it to behave (if your rears abit unstable goto a .5 bigger rim with same size tyre and that will settle it down). Theres nothing more funny than going around the circuit behind someone better, then coming round them on said corner with a slight ass out position around them where i shouldnt be abale to do such a thing, its the hicass thats helping me by controlling my postion, because without it I coundnt pull that stunt, dont be afraid to make changes find some one with equipment or buy your own if your serious, you just need learn to understand the fundamentals of how it works and why and whats happening, i dont always get it right but thats half the fun and learn as you go, you'll get better. May I suggest going to a rally school get them to teach you their techniques, you will trace a more even driving line and your lap times will improve with time. Hope this helps..............

Im in AUS R34 had it for 6 years now yeah didnt care about date as anyone else reading for info might find it useful.........i tell u one thing though its been very reliable

(dont forget that wheel alignment after install) Now go back that corner and get that nose to the guard rail at apex nail it but not to much yet get it to the point of where it wants to let go as you come out dont hook it hard slow and smooth turning if the rear wants to kick out rear sus may be too soft set on next firmer try again till its best can be. next dont be afraid of those squeeling tyres when your ass wants to go out start with light steering pressure in oposite direction to counter till you get consistant aim for 3 months daily practice till u get really good but time is not important just take ur time and learn ur car safest 4 u and everyone else. next and cheap again get a cusco torsion bar goes up b4 near radiator support between links remove link nuts put in place replace nuts now when you go around corner you will find you can go 5 - 10ks faster b4 tyres squeeel and it will only cost u about $110 bucks still on a cheap budget:) now some kiddies will not like this but dont touch that hicass it only moves 1deg or so out any way unless its been played with (evedent by the fact the warning light has been removed from the dash) to reset back put wheel in a strait ahead postion take that battery lead off go have a coffie for half an hour and when you put back on and turn things on if its out it will check and reset itself u will hear ne ne ne clunk as the servo moves and locks back in place cheapest wheel alignment ive ever done dont be afraid of it either its there to help that sensor box in the boot behind the seat is whats helping u go faster around high speed corners learn to use it nail that pedal trust me it likes it other wise uve just got a normal car too many people criticise it they dont undestand how it works or havent learnt to use it to advantage it takes time "quote i lost it cause hicass stuffed me up" hog wash ive had mine for 6 yrs and drive like a ninny lots of fun (opps) but no accidents even if it fails again 1deg of movement will really spew u off bahhh if they broke rear link more that gutter they slid into the other day even if it did that practice you did b4 will help counter (being the magic word) such a situation should it arise and for both rear wheels to be out it would have to be magic or a good bingle. ur hicass rack is also doing another great job by stiffening up the rear look up rear non hicass brace bar uve already got a hunk of metal doing that job anyway if u want ill keep posting ill go through most things i can think of the cheapest way i can think of to help you beat those better buggers around the track trust me the look on their face is priceless when u stick it to them in your so called under rated standard car powers not every thing an eg of this is the mines gtr lookup american touge 3 hot version i think great example of good balanced car not to overpowered that kicks but they also do gtt ohh before i go DONT buy bcnr33 coilovers etc etc even if they fit the spring rates front to rear are diff front to rear as gtt only buy direct for gtt

3rd time lucky okkkkk sus as good start as any get working 2nd hand coil overs if you can preferably adjustable if HA (hight adjust) measure ur car hight of ground & 4 now set same ive got nismo set u can adjust on car dont need remove anything if 2nd hand u also need hight adjust spanners x2 dont really need to hard a sping rate as really u will be driving on road as well set shocks firmer instead nismo fr 4way rear 8way adjust to start out u dnt really need 32way adjust to many get some thing cheap and simple that u can grow with till you get experienced & undestand whats going on. once fitted go find that 35k freeway entrance ramp set on soft and go practice till ur speeds consistant 4 now stay on centre exit through and as clean as poss (this will serve u later when on track) now set hard do the same note differance then once good with that try inbetween settings till u get the right balance for ur car with the highest consistant speed will post more when i can this is the really short version too

ahh tried replying but new to this so this is a test i uploaded my reply is that right ill try add reply this time if this works ill start again