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Nope I know him, he hasn't blown it up yet. He says he has around 400hp at .3bar and a little over 500hp at 1bar. It was everything I could do not to bust out laughing in his face.

If you want to convert anything kw to hp, bar to psi or anything just goto http://www.convertit.com/Go/ConvertIt/Meas...t/Converter.ASP

Ok everything I read on here says not to expect much more than 250kw(335hp) on stock rb20det internals and still be reliable. What stuff needs to be changed out first and what order would you get it done in or would it be best to do everything all at once? Head gasket? Pistons? etc etc Is about 1.3 bar boost safe of stock internals?

No race fuel. Well I'm in Japan and the octane rating is something like 100. Thanks for all the info s14drift.

So what's the benefit of having a 1.2 bar instead of a .8 bar spring?

Got a quick question for you guys. There is the person I know that says he running close to 500hp on stock ca18det internals. He just has aftermarket turbo, inj, fuel pump, intercooler, blah blah. But everything inside is stock. Is he full of sh!t?

This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I don't really understand how wastegates work completely. I know they control boost by letting off exhaust gas before it gets to the turbo. Here is what I don't understand. If you have you wastegate spring or whatever it's called set to .8 bar and your boost controller set to 1 bar how does that work? What does the spring in the wastegate do? Also if you have a .8 bar spring can you boost lower than .8bar? say .5bar? Thanks

Are the stock clutches push or pull? If it's a push type how much trouble would it be to make it a pull type?

Ok I was looking at the website and I noticed that the other rb20det clutches were all pull type. This is a push type.

Q3 26psi will call for a pretty big turbo. I don't think it'll be boosting very much at 2500rpms.

Q1 I think because when you run a smaller turbocharger the more boost you have the hotter the air gets. So get an intercooler.

Does anyone own an HKS GD MAX twin plate clutch? I just got one, but I think it might be the wrong one. On the box it says 2604-SN001 RB# (Pull) 5MT Twin. I looked up 2604-SN001 on the japanese HKS website and it says it's for a RB25DET, I have a RB20DET. http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/power_...lutch_data.html So if this clutch is for a RB25 will it fit in a RB20 or am I screwed?

Is there more power with a series 1 vg30 turbo?

Ok I know this is a very old topic, but I was wondering what turbo I should go with. I'm leaning towards the r33 rb25 turbo. How much boost can these turbos run safetly on a r32 rb20det?

I just got my APEXi S-AFC II installed and man does my car feel better. It hasn't been fully tuned on a dyno yet either, just conservative settings for no knock. My 0-100 km/h times went from 6.5 to 5.9 secs. By the way my rear tires are only 215s and my clutch is stock :-( Anybody else seen these kind of results or is this normal? I was thinking about getting a nismo twin plate and some 245s for the back, should that help out alot?

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the website I'm reading: http://www.jscspeed.com/wrx/boostcontrolle...ddy_emanage.htm says that you can only set 5RPM points + or - 20%. I thought that was horrible resolution. The new APEXi S-AFC2 can adjust for 12 points + or - 50%. How can the e-manage be better??

Here is the guide I was planning on using: http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-AFCtuning.htm You guys think it's a good or bad idea?

I'm planing on getting a s-afc 2 and I'll probably tune it myself, but I have a two important questions. What is fuel trim and how do you measure it?

The tube that it's coming out of almost looks like it should be there. It looks like there is a butterfly valve above it, but I think it's stripped or something. Any ideas?

Alright guys here's the latest problem I have with my skyline. Underneath the engine on the left side of the car there is tube that is leaking coolent. Above the tube there is a cap looking thing that can be screwed. I've tried tighting it, but the tube still keeps leaking coolent. It only leaks once the engine has been started and right after it's turned off, I guess only when there is pressure in the lines. Any ideas guys?

I'm personally not in the military, but my grandfather is a retired Marine. Yeah drifting is huge over here, not only for the americans, but japanese as well. Another thing, there isn't just Marine bases, but Air Force, Army, and Navy. Just about everything.

A few more things to add. It doesn't have a boost controller and the computer is stock, but it puts out .7 bar of boost. Is that high for stock? I plan on getting a APEXI S-AFC and AVC-R, it'll be tuned on a dyno. How much performance increase can I expect to see?

Alright here is deal. Just got the skyline gts-t back from the shop. The computer was toast and it was only running off 5cyl. Got a new computer and everything is running great, but my 0-100km/h times still seem really slow. I'm not for sure if I'm launching it right. How many rpms do you guys launch at and when is the best time to shift? The upgrades on the car are as follows: full exhaust system, hks intake, hks intercooler, bov, and I think that's about all. Only tried 0-100km/h once and got a time of 7.2secs. That's kinda slow right?

I read alot of stuff on the forum about adjusting timing on the RB20DET. Exactly how do you do this?

I'll check the prices of 18" rims