Housie

Hi guys, First off, my appologies if this is in the wrong section. Secondly, this is not nissan related by all advice is much appreciated. Thirdly, im posting this for my mate who hasnt recieved any decent help on sigma/mistubishi forums. The car is 1977 GE sigma with a fully worked engine ($12000 long motor), silivia turbo, magna fuel injection, full exhaust system, FMIC, POD filter etc etc. Running haltek e6k computer. This thing is mental, churping 1st 2nd 3rd...and 4th gear. Its only recently been built but the owner is having lots of issues with tuning centres, no one can seem to get this thing tuned correctly. The current tune doesnt allow the engine to rev over 2500 so obviously the tuner had no idea. Thats about all the info i have, sorry its not very specific. My mate is just looking for recommendations on good tuning houses in brisbane region, more specifically someone who has worked on the haltek e6k or similar. Please reply to this thread and i'll pass all info on to the owner. Cheers SAU Jason.

Yeah i read it whilst eating dinner. I cooked my steak far to long so it took me about an hour of reading/gnawing to finish both So i'd imagine not any old joe-blow working for nissan would of got the priveledge to preview the 35. So your pretty high in the ranks? Jason

Just read the entire thread. I suggest SAU would be big enough to initiate an Australia wide boycotte of the Aus GTR FRINGE FTW lol

i hope not lol Im afraid i must agree with most others here. Bye something cheap that it wont really matter if you hit a curb, ding a fender or scratch a rim. cause that will happen in the first few years of driving. And with the price of fuel at the moment its probably not really worth paying for a 6 cylinder NA. but i know when ive had my heart set one something, no matter what anyone else said, i still chased it. If having an NA r33 is what will put a buldge in your pants.....

chances are she'll kill him and we'll never hear from the poor bugger again lol! goodluck with the build btw Jason

When my car was imported the aircon was shot, brett from motorscene sent it over to Foys auto Electrical @ Nundah. He regassed it etc. Nice guys, seem to be a clean respectible business they had going. I plan on getting an alarm/immobiliser for insurance asap and will be using them again. $240 installed i think i got quoted.

Hey mate, Have just been reading through your thread. Very unlucky situation that your in. Ive had mates summoned to court over defects (but not under the new rules people have been mentioning in this thread). I think that you will find, unfortunelty, that the court system can reduce your fine (if ruling in your favour) but cannot actually reduce the points lost on licence (which is what your concerned about) ((please correct if im wrong)). From my understanding your going to court not to prove that your diff was locked or not, your going because IT was locked (wether thats true or not, but i dont actually think the cop will have to prove that) and your there to be 'punished.' The level of punishment (amount of fine) will be determined by your attitude, presentation and any 'evidence' you bring along. Your on the right track with the letters etc from your mechanics. Rather than aiming to prove wether your diff was locked or not. possibly approch it from a "the diff was repaired due to a worn shim. It was replaced with a thicker shim prone to less wearing and was recommended by my mechanic." If asked why it was replaced with a slightly larger shim, id be saying that as a grey import genuine parts are hard to source and the shim that was put in your diff was a more commonly sourced non-genuine part. If questioned why the orignal shim needed to be replaced dont dig yourslef a hole and say an answer which makes you sound like you been drifting. Possibly say it was imported with poor gear oils and the hotter aussie environment took its tole on the older diff components (although thats prob b/s, the judge isnt a mechanic so he really isnt going to know to much about it, but he isnt an idiot either he'll pick a lie from a mile away. Try to bend the truth, not lie outright. kinda-thing. Im trying to rack my brain for anything else that might help you out but thats about it for the time being. Please use my advice with caution, possibly run it by a lawyer if you decide to source one. One the day, get dressed up, make and look like your taking it very serious. dont drive the skyline to the court house lol. Also make it look like you've spend alot of time/effort/ and money to prepare for the day. anyone please comment on anything that you believe is incorrect, dont want to be giving this lad a bum steer! cheers Jason

only read this question about 1/2 ago in another thread. as a guide only: 250rwkw's.

hey, alot of the business sellers on here (for example sliding performance and just jap) do really cheap intercooler kits (under $600 bucks, eveything included), do a search to see whats on offer. Not worth buying second hand IMO. I did quite alot of research before purchasing mine, asked alot of questions etc etc. Ended up paying a rediculously low price (under $300 deliverd to my door) on an intercooler kit; MonstA brand. The specifications listed for it seem impressive (total weight, pressure loss, fin design etc etc) and with the price i couldnt resist. I may end up paying the price for getting a cheaper cooler (as im sure many members on here will tell me) but see how i go. The kit i got outperforms (flow+psi drop etc) the greddy m type kits (from my oberservation, feel free to argue) and at half the price. Others would rather go with a trusted name brand cooler which is understandable. In terms of fitting the intercooler with the standard bar, every member who does an instal on any of the cooler kits usually finds slight modifcations to brackets and front bar are required (although kits usually claim no modifications nessesary). If you can use a drill and dremil you'll be right.

This is the way i plumbed it on my r33. Teed it off the vacum hose coming out of the plenum (where the stock boost guage gets its reading i believe). Stock Guage and Aftermarket digital guage both work nicely. I think the main thing is to make sure its after the FMIC, otherwise your reading the boost the turbo is making rather than the boost at the engine.

sold. close thread. Cheers for quick sale luke. Jason.

99.9% sure these tyres will pass a roadworthy. Come take a look!

Federal Super Steels 205/55 R16

Item: R33 GTST Stock Rims + Tyres (tread >60%) Age: 1993. Tyres about a year old Condition: Wheels: ok, centre caps: poor, tyres: good Price: About 200 To Fit: 5 stud Location: Brisbane Contact: Me (Jason) via reply to thread or 0431990903 Comments: Chicken Wire not include In this photo the wheels/tyres are dirty, brake dust all over them etc so they do scrub up abit better than this. This is the worst centre cap out of the 4. They are plastic and im sure could be very cheapily and easily be sprayed to match the rims. Cheers Jason

hey mate, wouldnt mind seeing a pic or two of that exhaust! (edit: the 3inch catback one) cheers Jason

Yeah mate they can. get used to it ay' happens all the time.

yeah mate i'll take one handbrake boot. where can i find your bank details?

Hey guys, I need to track down two tyres 235/40/r18 size. Ive got two maxis ones sorted already but need two more (any brand) with a acceptable tread (above 75% or so). cheers jason

looks like i'll pass on this one, by the time freight comes into play i'd be better off spending a few extra bucks and getting brand new. cheers mate. jason

Consider sold if we can agree on a resonable postage price to brisbane qld. cheers jason