Adrian P

They are the old defi-link gauges. Before the BF series. They came in white & black faces and should do the 'opening ceremony' when turned on.

"Vehicles manufactured before 1 January 2010 will continue to be prohibited under the current criteria as there is no national power to weight ratio data for these vehicles" Still doesnt make a turbs Skyline legal for P's.

Both the factory gauge and warning light come from the same sender. And they are well known to be inaccurate and / or fail.

just did compression test 3 days ago on 26 with Tomei type b. 165-170psi accross all. Fresh build.

Let me know what you have. After stock front sway bar from a3q cefiro. Pref in Melbourne. Cheers.

For anyone who removes the original screen from the xanavi frame, I'll buy it from you. Wouldnt mind having a play...

I'll take the poncams. U have a PM.

After a bare Rb26 block, ideally with stock bore (86mm). Cant be cracked. Ideally in Melbourne, otherwise must be able to ship.

Pm'd

may also fit cefiro and r32 skyline...

Up you go...

Hi guys, I have a new Whiteline 27mm SOLID 3 point ADJUSTABLE front swaybar, made to suit SR S13 Silvia or 180sx with an RB conversion. (Possibly suit others) Whiteline part code 'BNF43Z' Comes with all fitting hardware, bolts, d bushes, all as originally packaged. Some scrapes on the silver paint from a test fit. S14 swaybar in below pic not included. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail...;sans_vehicle=1 RRP: $329.00, Sell for $250.00 Pickup from Port Melbourne or Bundoora (after hours)

Tried that this morning, the wire ive taken for ecu, ignitor / coils, and injectors has 12v when switching from ign to start stock (at least i hope they are) and had them cleaned a few months ago before putting them in. this is what im thinking, but the timing light and all the marks lining up state otherwise... i hope... will try that tomorrow... willing to try anything at this point! nah, all seems like it should be right... took the rockers off and checked visually where the cams are pointing at no.1 tdc, (they both point away from each other as the FSM states they should). But i will be trying to move the CAS around as Mat suggests.

Already tried... might get a backfire, but still no start Yeah, stock r32 gtr ecu (also tried r33 stock gtr ecu)

Key in the ex cam is still there (have checked this like 5 times becuase the symptoms sound like timing and CAS on wrong, but timing light shows correct fire of no.1 so I wold have thought its on right) Dont know about the additional timing as im just going by the FSM. ECUtalk shows the ecu reporting 16deg BTDC whilst cranking which should still start... erghh.

Yeah, confirmed in ecutalk that ecu receiving start signal

RB26 conversion into S14 chassis Fresh rb26 build with pistons / rings, 1.2mm metal headgasket. I have spark (earthed out the plugs on the rocker cover and have spark on all 6, even took off the boot of coilpack 1 and spaced 10mm from earth and it jumped the gap) I have fuel (checked all injectors click individually when I turn the CAS,, and after prolong cranking the plugs get slightly wet) I have fuel pressure (found out old std FPR wasnt holding any pressure, so changed to adjustable FPR and set to 43psi on cranking- as per FSM) I have timing (used timing gun when cranking, and adjusted CAS to show 20btdc on Ross tuffbond harmonic balancer for r32 gtr, Cam pulleys line up with dots on rear cover at TDC) I have compression (1: 135psi, 2: 125psi, 3: 140 psi, 4: 145psi, 5: 145psi, 6: 145psi) - keeping in mind that hasnt been run in yet, although no.2 does concern me a bit. The fuel lines are around the right way (took the line from the rail - not the fpr - and put into 2lt bottle, turned on ign and it pumped into the bottle) Has 20lt of fresh optimax Changed spark plugs twice so far with new ones. Tried start ya bastard and got one or two backfires then nothing Unplugged the fuel pump and it popped a bit then nothing. It all cranks fine. I have tried to jump it off my daily when cranking too just in case not enough power. No error codes on Ecu Tried to crank without AFMs connected and with WOT, still doesnt do anything. No o2 sensors connected Tried without coolant and air temp sensors connected I have gone over the wiring and all seems good, most of it is the r32 gtr loom uncut and the F4 / m63 connectors spliced together. I have tried both R32 and a R33 GTR ecu I would take it to someone as im over it and out of ideas, but its not movable yet. I just want it to start before i put the rest of the car all back together. WTF!?! I would think its something simple that ive missed, although now im starting to think its something a bit more sinister (i hope not). Ill even reward you if you give me something to go on that helps me get more than a cough out of it.

Could be possible, but tried 2 ECUs, both R32 GTR & R33 GTR. I would have already if the car was rolling... but in its current state, wouldn't even make it onto the back of a tow truck. I dont want to put it back together until I know the engine / wiring all works.

ok, there's $50 paypal money to whoever gives me the winning solution to get the fu*ker started. This is really starting to sh*t me. I have fuel - plugs are wet after trying to start just now All intercooler piping is on and AFMs connected. I have spark - when I take the plug out and rest on the rocker cover, I see the spark. Have just tried a brand new set of BCPR6ES's. I have timing - used a timing light and set the CAS to base timing and is set to 20 BTDC on the harmonic balancer. All vacuum lines have be plugged up (for BOV , wastegates, etc) PCV breathers connected. I have compression ~150 - 160 psi across all cylinders (bear in mind the engine is still yet to be run in) Every now and again I get a backfire or splutter. Tried start ya bastard and got a big backfire then nothing. Could the spark be too weak under compression (hence the wet plugs)? Tried to start while jumping from my daily so plenty of power. I seem to have everything needed for a functioning engine.... but ignition. Im ready to chuck this thing in the bin. This was a parts bin special so all pieces came from different places and is untested by myself (CAS, ignitor, coils, etc.). Dont really want to start buying spares of everything so is there something that will give these symptoms? Im at wits end...

ok, definitely got fuel (absolutely flooded the bajesus out of it, had to dump the oil.) 3 injectors stuck closed. had them cleaned, now all back together. Fresh oil. AFMS connected. Added extra gounds everywhere (to ignitor pack and spark plug rail). Have good spark. Get a pop every now and again. Still wont kick over... Set TPS to .5v when closed. Lined up harmonic balancer to mark on lower cover to 0 degrees (Ross balancer), and the cam marks lined up too on the upper plate (about 10 oclock on in gear and 2 oclock on ex gear), and also visually checked, when cyl 1 is TDC, both in and ex valves are closed. CAS lined up dead centre in the holes Still havnt got the cooler piping connected as it hast been made yet. (I want the engine to kick over before I keep going). No Cam cover vent / PCV hoses connected yet. Vacuum lines from Air chamber under plenum (the ones that go to the BOV, boost solenoid, and carbon cannister) not connected. I dont want it to idle perfect, just to start so that I know the conversion wiring is done so i can wrap it. Its got me f*cked!

Just trying to start RB26 after finishing the wiring for conversion into S14 200sx. It has got me stumped, and here's why. I have fuel. Fuel pump pumps, the petrol is a week old optimax after flushing out the tank, the lines are arround the right way engine side and injectors are clicking. Remove spark plugs and they seem to be wet. I have spark. And all new plugs I have good compression across all cyl (For an un run-in engine that is) I have checked the setting of the timing with the cam wheels against the backing plate and the harmonic balancer against the lower cover mark. If I remove the CAS, then turn it, I hear the injectors clicking, fuel pump activate and can test for spark. Its running std injectors, on a std r32 gtr ecu, and cranks over fine. AFMs are unplugged, Wiring seems to be fine (ecu recieving the start signal too). Alot of the vacuum lines arnt linked up yet but it doesnt even sound like it wants to start. EcuTalk shows no ECU error codes. (Code 55). Also tried starting with R33 GTR ecu too. The only thing that comes to mind is not enough fuel pressure or no cold start enrichment. What the hell have I missed?!?

as topic states, after a stock frony swaybar from a RB equipped cefiro. Pref in Melb. Let me know what you have. cheers.

these are worth over $180 each from australian sellers!

These have been regarded as one of the best thermo fans you can buy. Super thin, and super reliable. I bought these from the states last year, but have since worked out I got slim to 0 chance of putting them between my 53mm koyo rad and the front of the rb26 (in a S14 btw). So I need to sell them to get push type fans. (yay... another 6 week wait!) Here are the specs. 11" Push type performance fans x2 51.1mm thick 885 CFM 12 volt P/N 30100411 http://www.spalusa.c...100411_SPEC.PDF Comes new in original boxes only trial fitted (and failed). Cost me $115 each fan + shipping from US ($65) Will sell for $200 for both, + shipping $20 anywhere in AUS. Or pickup from Mill Park (a/h) or Port Melbourne during business hours. Cheers -Adrian

Yeah I can move it the other way (bearing moves away from the fingers about 10 - 20mm), but the standard position (after the spring pulls the fork back) touches the fingers ever so slightly. Is this fine?