TezGT-R

I've got an M3 shifter and Adamat RB adaptor, with a HPR transfer adaptor. Bought the full kit from HPR-tuning.

I have a HTG GCU.

After talking with some people experienced with the DCT box in race cars, they've convinced me the box will hold the power if I put a set of clutches and baskets in. So it's getting that, a new exhaust and rear turbine housing, Nexus R5 and rewire, then DCT install.

I was going to install my DCT kit after the new 3.2 was dialled in on the 5 speed, but after it made 800hp at 4900rpm on the hub dyno before lifting the head, I'm thinking it's just going to explode the DCT. I'll be selling my whole kit soon and going built auto.

I finished up the long block last weekend, pulled the 26 and manual box yesterday. Fab work and freshening up the engine bay starts next weekend. It'll be manual while we get the engine run in and tuned then the DCT will go in. I usually post updates on instagram.

My new engine should be finished soon and I'll find out soon enough how well closed loop works

They reckon you'll just have to put in a few things like gear ratios, torque calculation stuff and some safety parameters then go driving and it'll get smoother and faster on the shifts as you go. HPR is offering complete plug and play packages now and with closed loop it should be a lot more user friendly to get it going.

Yes, I've got the HPR adaptor kit for a GTR

I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.

HPR Tuning are working on the ZF conversion kit for GTRs at the moment. I have their entire DCT kit to go behind my 3.2 when it's done, it looks top quality and I bet the ZF kit will be too. https://hpr-tuning.com/products/8hp-skyline-gtr-kit?_pos=1&_sid=6b0b74950&_ss=r

This is exactly what I'm doing with a 3.2 Should be fun when it's finished.

There's a few of us around, just need to go to the right place at the right time.

I just ordered a section of this in 4" then cut it down slightly to fit https://torquelinegarage.com.au/proflow-carbon-fibre-intercooler-piping-45-degree/

If I knew what pressure it activated the pump at a replacement could be found pretty easily but I haven't found anything on the minimum pressure

Workshop manual says 0 psi - 228 psi is needed, does air ride stuff get anywhere near that high?

Did you end up finding a replacement switch without replacing the whole pump? I'm not keen on buying second hand parts or paying $4660AU for a whole new pump. Thanks

RHD japan was cheaper than nengun, got my nismo lsd for $1052 shipped.

Natros (Nicks) car definitely has an LS.

I'm buying it on steam when i get home, ready for release.

My stock turbos ran 16.5psi for 8 years before one gave up, you'll be fine.

When my 32 dropped the front turbine down the exhaust it drove fine but made absolutely no boost.

Went to fuel up, made an odd sound when I pressed the tab inside the car to open the fuel flap. Found the white plastic nut and bit of black threaded plastic inside it sitting next to the fuel cap. Seems it has broken off the bracket in the other picture. Anyone know where I can get another of the black brackets, or even what its called so I can search a little easier myself? Not keen on taking the car anywhere with the fuel flap swinging in the breeze, since any muppet can put stuff into my fuel tank right now. Thanks guys

Nah not a drop, I've been keeping an eye on leaks since I had a heap of seals replaced when I got the turbos done. Garage floor is spotless.

I hope there is oil in the box, since I paid for it to be replaced when I did the clutch. I'll have to take it around the block again and check for the noise in neutral, I can't remember 100% if it did or not.

Drove the 32 over 600km to visit my parents and 15km from their house halfway up a mountain pass it starts making a ticking/metallic banging sound from the gearbox/clutch area. I wasn't up it at all because there are massive log trucks that come around the corners on the wrong side of the road. The noise stops when the car does and revving it while stationary does not make the noise. While rolling if I push the clutch pedal in I can feel it through the pedal, the sound doesn't stop though. Happens in all gears and any speed. Does get faster as you go faster. It had a brand new nismo twin plate professionally installed about 3000km ago and I've really only gone on sunday drives since then, no thrashing. Being the only thing I haven't had to fix yet the box is a bit tired, worn synchros etc, I knew it would be the next thing to give me issues, so I'm not devastated or surprised. I'd just like to know what it is before I take it back down the mountain to the mechanic we use in case it's something horrific and I shouldn't even limp it there. Thanks guys, Tez