GTR747

sounds def like a wheel bearing dude. i'll almost put money on it. Wheel bearings make an annoying humming sound and it gets louder the faster the wheel spins. Easy to rebuild but you may need a press machine to get em out. or.......a big fat f**k off hammer and a chisel. your choice. haha

Check your clutch/brake fluid level under the bonnet and your power steering level aswell - check your attesa system oil level aswell. that should fix it, if not, you need a new switch (oil sensor) Everyone else, i found these links on a UK GTR forum... http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/87007-4w...light=4WD+Light just to name a few !!!! There is heaps of info on this site if you do a search. Hope this helps

clutch slip for sure dude! find level ground, apply hand brake, push clutch in and select 4th gear, let clutch out slowly.....if it stalls your clutch will last a little longer if your cruise round off boost, if it doesnt stall, she's a rooted! When you replace the clutch, it would be worth getting a new rear main seal and your flywheel machined. The flywheel machining is critical as if you dont get it machined, you can get severe clutch shudder when taking off with the new clutch is installed.

wish all g'box issues were that simple to fix. Glad to hear its fixed mate.

dammit

could have a problem with your clutch system mate. Sounds like the clutch isnt disengaging and not lettin you change gears. Check your slave cylinder - your fluid level and also bleed your clutch, see if that healps. But yeah, from what you described - your clutch isnt disengaging your g'box from the engine allowing you to change gears.

Thanks for all your help guys, i'll be givin it a go myself maybe today, if not deffinatly tomorrow. Got no stubby spanners but i have got ratchet spanners and other little misc items, i should be able to figure somthin out. Just how heavy are these boxes. When i worked at ford, i found the manual g\boxes so much lighter than the auto because it didnt have the torque converter with all that oil in it adding to the weight. Surely they aren't that heavy???

ah okay then. I was just gonna sit the box on the ground straight down from the original position, abuot 1 foot away or so. If i have to move it further, bleeding the ATTESA system - what does that involve - where are the bleed nipples etc etc.

cool cool, sounds like this is gonna be fun Apparently, because its a pull type clutch, the selector fork need to come out before i lower the box? Is that hard to get out or is it pretty obvious when i look at it?

oh okay, sounds pretty straight forward. Top bellhousing bolts are always a pain to get to. Is the starter hard to get back into place on these engines? Droppin the g'box cross member was always gonna happen, havin the engine lean back and drop a few inches would make life a lot easier for sure. Thanks so much for your help man.

hey guys and girls.... i need some help. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ns-t203251.html

hey, i used to be a mechanic so i have changed a few clutch's in my time, but none in a 4wd car. I have a R32 GTR and want to know what sort of job it is changing the clutch yourself??? Got all the tools for the job like clutch aligner and sockets and all, but i have been quoted around $550 for a clutch remove/install with new rear main and flywheel machine. I have a new rear main seal, ready to go in, and a bloke lined up to machine the flywheel, if i choose not to fit a alloy/chromalloy flywheel that is. Anyone done this before? Thank you.

I can vouch for these guys. Boostworx do an awesome job for the price you pay. 2 thunbs up for sure !!!

i thought it would be alright to baby around but just wanted an opinion from ppl in the know. thanks for that dude.

gotta love those flame spitting, tyre destroying, clutch wearing GTR's hahaha

hey all... im getting a HKS GT-SS kit for my 32GTR and was wondering weather the computer will need to be changed straight away? Running standard turbos at the moment of the actuators (13-14psi) and it's still running rich with no pinging or detonation. at the moment i have the original ecu in the car, but a power fc sitting and Greddy Profec B2 in my room. They will go on the car soon, just a little low on cash at the moment due to my mortgage The kit comes with 8-9psi actuators, so will running those turbo with that boost setting be detrimental to the engine or turbos in anyway with the satandard ecu in place? Wont be driving the car much until the FC goes in though ! Thank you...

This is nuts... http://www.datatype.net/gtartdynoday/blue34quartersim.wmv 600BHP

hahahaha, listen to arnie!

i understand what your getting at here dude, i said "id like" screamer pipes and that i might hollow out the cat - i think the one on the car already is hollowed out, im not sure. Damn straight they are illegal for good reasons but this isn't my daily, if it was, this sort of stuff is outta the question! I dont think im draggin down the GTR's image at all - thats the last thing i want to do!

add it aswell as a big brake kit! haha

rightyo, i will. Thank you for your help.

oh man c'mon, it was a joke dude. However.......i do know the people your talking about though!

2860's would be awesome, dont get me wrong, im just givin you my 2 cents, as i was almost in the same position as you. I asked people what turbo for my power level and i couldn't count the number of people that replied with stuff like "man, HKS GT-SS's are the way to go, hands down for an insane street GTR" If you got them for a good price bro ------> Go for it, strap those bad boys on and have some fun!!!!

haha, yes yes they would. so would grandma at the traffic lights!

Logical thinkin there dude, thats a good idea, with your enigine km's that high. HKS GT-SS's or similar would be the go for that power range. These things will come on boost pretty much the same as the stock ones, and ripp your head off all the way to redline!