SLYDA

Are these still availb?? if so can you PM me with how to pay and how much they are?? thanks.

Hi Everyone, Need a clutch for 300RWKW R33, looking at pushing it to above 350RWKW at the end of the year.. Looking for a clutch i can buy now, and not have to replace again later. This car will be mostly road driven. Want something that you can cruise around in, Ive found the following clutchs and just want some advice. OS Giken STR 2CD Twin Plate Clutch Kit RB20DET RB25DET PUSH $1,723.26 AUD delivered (rekkons can handle 550-600HP) http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/NEW-OS-Gik...5DET-PUSH-11908 seems ok?? theres also a HKS HKS GD Clutch Pro Power approximately 440kW (600PS) to transmission AU $ 1,701.72 delivered http://www.nengun.com/hks/gd-clutch-pro same ratings, same power, think mabee the OS GIKEN would be the way to go for a street car?? any help given is appreciated!

yeh u could.. just need a topmount manifold and an exhaust shop to extend ur dump pipe.. ull also need new suction pipes made up... honestly way to much work and no benifits i can see? apart from the gains of a stainless manifold (till it cracks) you would also need new oil and water lines as the factory ones wont reach... so im guessing $1000+ to do it with a cheap ebay manifold + fabrication of piping and dump.. i have a 3037 Pro S.. with a Lowmount stainless manifold..

get new studs!! they cost roughtly $2 each at nissan! or get the stud guy to replace them.. i bought all new studs, yolks, washers and nuts when i did mine... surprisingly the washers were the most expensive :S... id also do the half moon cam cover gaskets and the rocker cover gaskets while there out. and also the little things that the screws that hold the rocker covers on.. the new ones are like 70 or so mm high.. mine were like 20 haha.. (squashed).. just spend the money and do it right.

You dont need to make a new bracket, what you do is this. Drill a hole slightly larger than bolt roughly there, you can do this by loosing off the top bolt removing the left one completly marking a hole in the middle of the adjustable bit and then drill. The adjustable end has HEAPSSSS of thread on it and you will easily be able to compensate. so remove circlip and make the thing about 6 or 7MM to short or so (to put tention on wastegate door) reattach rod tighten locking nut and done .. dont loose the circliip putting it back on, I found getting the actuator the 6 or 7MM over a real pain in the ass so i cheated gotta love air blower set to 20PSI attached to actuator line lol and guess what the HKS Actuator is back on the turbo correctally, no angle issues.. no major fabrication. Problem solved! (included picture) if you look at mine the bottom of the actuator is about 2.5cms from the housing of the turbo.. urs is like 5... if u compare where my bracket bolts too and where yours does.. you will get the point where the hole needs to be drilled! it doesnt have to be dead on straight.. but not looking like its about to hit would be good!

Ur Bracket looks adjustable? how bout loosing off those 2 bolts and sliding it?? see if u can get a bit more clearance.. funny thing is that red mark.. looks like it has been set like that by HKS.. Its intresting that the instructions show the bracket that came on mine though... it shouldnt make any difference i dont believe when the actuator starts moving foward it prob will go out slightly towards the right anyway.. Id love to see if moving by connecting the actuator to a air blower with its reg set to say 20PSI and watch it move in and out... its also importaint to make sure theres quite a bit of tention holding that wastegate door closed. otherwise it will just creep open anyway.

AFM should read up to 5V i believe before maxing out (correct me if wrong) it may be 5.2V - Get a Power FC and a Z32 AFM .. or set ur boost 2 10PSI and dont touch it.. my series had the same problem for about 2 years... try running 14 or 15PSI and it seems fast up to 4500RPM then just died.. Found the car was far faster on 10PSI, now i have a HKS GT3037 Pro S on it.. and at 10PSI with a POWER FC.. all i can say is.. i wish i had of done this 2 years ago.. What you are talking about is called the FACTORY BOOST CUT. Every member on this forum that has even slightly modified there skyline and upped the boost has encountered this problem

Guys what power levels will 480cc injectors get u up too? i can get the 555cc nismos for $736.23 or the 480cc's for $422.10. .. im looking at 280RWKW and after engine build mabee 320 - 350KW? With 480cc's what injector duty do u think you would reach at 280KW or so?? anyone know where to get cheaper?

taking it back to stock was the plan all along. .. my reasoning is exactally what u stated.. could sell the car for $15k all included.. or take the crap off it, sell it seperatly. i was just wanting peoples estimates as to what i could sell the stuff for seperatley as for front bar, i have no idea .. think bomex?

Yeh looking at breaking it all down and selling it as parts just returning the car back to stock.. 18K's not bad though i guess. ... To bad u cant get finance on a inport.. ill need to hit dad up for a personal loan..

Hey People, Im now seriously considering buying an R34 GTR, i didnt realise u can get them for around $50k now. Just wondering if you can give me an approximate price to expect selling the below mentioned stuff R33 GTST - Sunroof, $130,000KM (reverted to stock) 19" XHP Chrome Boost wheels with 95% tread (seperate to car) New Power FC for RB25 (only used to move car in and out of garage). bought from autobarn with reciepts 4 weeks ago. Hybrid Intercooler Turbosmart Stage 3 Stealth BOV full plum back system (cost abou $700+) Autometer Boost Gague (big one) HKS 3037 Pro S bolt on kit for R33 (bolted up to car, started but not driven) 0.68 rear Just looking at rough estimates. ive still got about $6000 to spend on car including tuning, coils and injectors.. its seeming like a big waste of money. I have all stock parts to replace back on skyline.

Ill take washer bottle pm me bank details and postage cost to 4217 gold coast. thanks

I dont understand what a shell with that much damage would be good for apart from a rebirth??

dammit i just bought one of these on ebay 2nd hand for $270!

guys does the NISMO short shifter actually drop the height of the gearknob??

Nismo Short Shifter? how much? is it new or used and does it come with all the bits to fit it to a R33 GTST?? thanks PM me with how much sent via express post to gold coast.

H!, just wanting some advise i can get 850cc sard injectors for about $700 landed.. or nismo 740cc injectors for about $980.. im chasing around 300-350KW once motor has been built but will be running a tune of 260-280rwkw on the stock motor till i have built the new motor (may be a while).. or untill i blow the one up in it haha.. MODS: HKS GT3037 Pro S 0.68 rear Hybrid Intercooler Turbosmart stage 3 plumb backed bov APEXI Power FC SPLITFIRE Coils Walbro 255l/h fuel up (with direct feed from battery) Just wondering if the 850cc's are really 2 big for that amount of power? ive heard there can be idle issues.. anyone done this? or have any experince in the area? would be appreciated. Im gonna ebay them tommorow or the next day..

i thought stock R33 GTST injectors were 370cc? and my power FC reported 100% injector duty off 14PSI boost, stock turbo, intercooler etc.. with the base FC map.. so i doubt they will support up to 200RWKW.

HAHAHAAAAA funny thread!!! i think you should sell ur skyline and buy one of them fully sick VR commodores, chuck some chrome hubcaps from supercheap on it and drill a few holes in ur muffler to make it go faster, and mabee some pink fluffy dice? might help u pull chicks.

egghhh do NOT put one of these manifolds on before putting on ur rocker covers u CANNOT get the right side one on once it is done up. It also is a HUGE pain in the god dam ass to get the turbo in there as well.. like a GT3037 Pro S. You also need 2 shorted studs that are like 10mm less coz the bolts at the standard length hit the runners. You can find the guy on ebay by searching for RB25 manifold (its there as like an SS Tuned length) bla bla bla.. comes with manifold, gaskets, Bolts for turbo to flange however there useless as the head on them is to big and there to long and cant get em to bolt to a HKS turbo, had to go get 4 studs, 8 nuts (even though the is a dye cut thread in flange (just dont trust it)) so i can bolt the stud to flange and turbo to flange. It also comes with manifold to turbo flange.

I dont want to break anything and want to know how to rotate the bit with the oil lines and water lines so that the drain like is facing to the bottom?? i loosed off the bolts but only the exhaust housing would turn.. ?? also theres some studs that u screw in for the dump 2 exhaust housing, does anyone know if u should screw the short end into the exhaust housing or the long end of the stud? thanks

i would have gone top mount as well however i bought it as a HKS 3037 Pro S kit, so it already had the suction pipe made up, all the lines etc etc, didnt want to complicate things, or i guess draw it to the cops attention there was a huge big turbo sitting up there haha.. and GT35R was just a BITTT out of my price range! ill consider selling the 3037 after i have a built motor.

the collector setup was the only reason i bought it, looked really well designed and it was a tuned length, looked like it had been TIG welded quite well. the cheap ebay ones look slapped together, welds are shocking, its also a low mount not a high mount like the one in the displayed pic. This is a cheap $200 ebay top mount manifold that is claimed to be Stainless SU304..

Ill let you know but im waiting on quite a few parts, may be a few months :S.. haha

either they sieze up or start spinning with the revs of the car, or the blades snap off (had that happen once). Plus the stupid intercooler kit i got made me cut the inside edge off each blade so it didnt hit (that was the one that snapped) ive relocated the piping and spaced it so nothing hits anymore (or even comes close).