jibe

Dismounted and measured M12X1.25 M14X1.5

Haha. It seems the small size is M12X1.25, consensus on it. On the other side it's a mess. I read M14X1.5 , M14X1 or even M16x1

Could someone please confirm the thread sizes of each end of an R32 GTR hicas tie rod please? I see various sizes according to different shops and a definitive answer would really be helpful. Thanks!

Thanks!

Definitely agree with you. The good news is that year after year people are better educated on this point and understand that a very old car that covers few yearly kilometers has no significant CO2 impact from craddle to grave compared to regularly renewed cars.

I must recognize you are absolutely right. It looks like in Australia, there is a massive passion for cars. In France there is a massive "I don't give a f*ck" for cars. I also confirm neither people take care of their car, neither do they with others cars. I park far aways from others as much as I can. On the other hand, there is a car enthousiast community, discreet but strong, and there are tons of hidden gems in France, given tons of love and care by their owners. Some events like 24h of le mans, Le mans Classic, Chantilly concourse of elegance and so on are a very good opportunity to see incredible cars and meet the community, driven in street, on track, and given the love they deserve. I also often get attention about people who know and love the GT-R, from 7 to 77 years old. ... I also often get unpleasant remarks from lesson givers on electric scooters and electric bikes... but that's an other topic 😅 Yes what happened with the link is very weird! I try again here

Stress relief https://youtu.be/jANosD3yUX8

Hi, I have same 21 fault code. Signal is alive from both pins out of the ecu, but on the other side, ets side, one of both is dead. Does someone knows what is the harness layout, or has layout pictures in order to help hunting the faulty wire or connector location?

Spring time She's out again Oil changed and inj700cc/NISMO AFM combo in order to avoid being saturated after 7000RPM at current boost setting

Mine are B7660, I also have the tomei expreme manifolds and dump pipes.

Thank you! Thanks! I was searching for metal turbine turbos in order to stay safe while running slightly above 1 bar of boost (I currently have stock ceramics), and I had this opportunity on Tomei turbos, that basically are nothing more or less than -5s. Thanks! Thank you Thanks!

After 15 year of discreet membership in this great forum, please let me introduce you my beloved BNR32, owned since one year and half. Breaf history pictures: The day I bought it. When I saw the panasports on it, and the wingless with only nismo lip remaining, I knew it would fit the spirit: On its way to paintshop for strip down and new skin: Out from paintshop: Delivered in France: Imperial mats: Key: Leather boot: Divided Y pipe: Engine bay cleaning: Carbon boot lip and Cusco coilovers: Hanami: RS*R equal length 70/80 front pipe: New panasport G7 C5C 18X10 and AD08RS 265/35s Abflug front lip / as it sits now: EY0 Silica breath painted engine covers: Next planned is TOMEI turbo upgrade, along with Tomei manifolds + dump pipes, 700ccs injectors, Nismo AFMs and ECU

Soviet_merlin, you did well.

Yes it's an R32. I bet your specs will be OK. AD08R are very wide 265's speaking. So the 2mm offset defference with my spec should be OK with a more conventional tire.

Lips NOT rolled, inner guards in place, natural camber on coilovers, reasonable lowering. Panasport G7 C5C: FRONT 18X10 +24 AD08R 265/35ZR18 (no spacer, the tire slightly shaved the edge of the fender liner plastic bolt holder, and 3mm clearance with the upper arm) REAR 18X10.5 +27 AD08R 265/35ZR18 (slightly adjusted with 3mm spacer so effective +24, clearance with lip around thickness of a hair)

Thanks, but I don't think it's Worth sending the turbo to you and them sending it back to me thought I live in west europe.

THanks, The housing profile does what is drawed in green on the pic => so one half of the gases section hits the big diameter of the blades and one other half hits the small (and final) diameter of the blades. I actually get 1.2bar boost peak at 3700RPM with the tiny housing (I measured the A/R and it's .40 A/R !!!!!), but the engine then chokes at 300whp. Is it worth putting a bigger housing and keeping this wheel?

I do confirm there is space between housing and blades at the place where it should be tangent. I came at the same conclusion that it's made tu reduce backpressure, but now that I'm going to fit a bigger housing, I would like to ensure I will not loose too much energy to reach my power needs. In fact, this wheel is now half way between Ptrim and GT35R wheel, so, knowing that I'm looking for 600bhp, it should do the job, but I wanted to share with better knowledged guys.

Here is an explanation pic, I hope it helps and hope it's more clear.

And does one of these cut styles match with mine?

I have a IHI RHC7 turbo on my RB26. I removed it last week because I need to fit a bigger turbine housing. The one that was bolted was really tiny. So I removed the old turbine housing and discovered that my turbine has a weird blades cut. It's not a cut back or clipping. The cut is done at a different place. A portion of the "major diameter" area working at the inlet side has been cut to be now the same diameter as the "minor area working at the exhaust side. So we can conclude that there is an area where the blades of the turbine are now NOT tangent with the turbine housing, where the diameter is progressively reduced. WTF is it intented for? What effect does it have on spool up and top end? Here are pics of my wheel and pics of a stock wheel. Please, Turbo gurus, help needed!

If it can help, here is the turbo:

I have a IHI RHC7 turbo. It's great but the previous owner did machine a ridiculously small garrett T4 turbine housing on it so thought it spools quickly, it chokes bad after 16PSI of boost. All the RHC7 turbine housings are bigger than that. So if you have a IHI C7 turbine housing lying in your garage, please sell it to me. Thanks

Now steady 15PSI. engine is great! shifting between 7500 and 7900RPM. Full boost 3700RPM! This machined garrett T4 turbine housing is ridiculously small so thought it spools quickly, it chokes bad after 16PSI of boost. All the RHC7 turbine housings are bigger than that. So if you have a IHI C7 turbine housing lying in your garage, please sell it to me. Thanks

5500RPM 0.6 bar, engine break-in halfway. CHanged radiator: [/