(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Just off the top of my head Check... Speedo, all Japanese cars came with a 180km speedo unless factory specified = R34 GTR N1's and up (from memory) With 180 km speedo its more likely the K's are believable or the best you can rely on anyway. Listen out for any noises in engine / turbos / diff / gearbox, listen to the car to see if it sounds healthy Look at the gauges to make sure they are all working. All the lights in the dash are lit. Brakes, make sure the disk are not warped and brake pads Flaky paint on inlet plenum = was driven hard and the heat has taken off the paint. Check liquids = Oil / Brake / Clutch / Radiator / Power steering Check the spark plug gaps, only way to tell if the car had a boost controller or not. Usually the gap is Wider if its been boosted and with after-market spark plugs. Give the car a rev to see how smooth it goes and then give it a quick high rev to see how well it reacts and then check the rpm on idle to see if it drops out. Test drive the car to see its performance. Everything should be in mechanical working order! Bring a mechanic with you! Interior... Wear on seats, front and rear / doors / gear shift knob / hand brake / carpets / and all panels air vents to make sure its not broken or a boost gauge shoved in it Exterior... Check Panels for rust / any accident history / paint keep in mind you are buying a car which are 2nd hand but hopefully to the very good condition and things are bound to be changed anytime soon if not later. Keep and eye on turbos / brakes / diff / clutch... Unless the car is FACTORY STOCK, one owner with service history books, service every 5000ks and timing belt changed at 100 000km (at least if not earlier) and not a single modification. If you buy a later model = new car but still check everything. There is a tonne of stuff, just PM me if you want anything in specific. Cya round!

Just off the top of my head Check... Speedo, all Japanese cars came with a 180km speedo unless factory specified = R34 GTR N1's and up had 320km speedos (from memory) With 180 km speedo its more likely the K's are believable or the best you can rely on anyway. Listen out for any noises in engine / turbos / diff / gearbox, listen to the car to see if it sounds healthy Look at the gauges to make sure they are all working. All the lights in the dash are lit. Brakes, make sure the disk are not warped and brake pads Flaky paint on inlet plenum = was driven hard and the heat has taken off the paint. Check liquids = Oil / Brake / Clutch / Radiator / Power steering Check the spark plug gaps, only way to tell if the car had a boost controller or not. Usually the gap is Wider if its been boosted and with after-market spark plugs. Give the car a rev to see how smooth it goes and then give it a quick high rev to see how well it reacts and then check the rpm on idle to see if it drops out. Test drive the car to see its performance. Everything should be in mechanical working order! Bring a mechanic with you! Interior... Wear on seats, front and rear / doors / gear shift knob / hand brake / carpets / and all panels air vents to make sure its not broken or a boost gauge shoved in it Exterior... Check Panels for rust / any accident history / paint keep in mind you are buying a car which was made back in 1989 to 1994 thats a good 10 to 16 year old car things are bound to be changed anytime soon. Keep and eye on turbos / brakes / diff / clutch... Unless the car is FACTORY STOCK, one owner with service history books, service every 5000ks and timing belt changed at 100 000km (at least if not earlier) and not a single modification. If you buy a later model = new car but still check everything. There is a tonne of stuff, just PM me if you want anything in specific. Cya round!

Stick with your HKS air filter, I got one and it works fine. I have a Blitz copy turbo timer and it probley does the same thing as the real Blitz one maybe minus a feature. As long as its reliable and allows your car to idle at the set time and able to lock your car while it idling and switch off and keep the car locked up.

Looks nice and fresh! Did you get a new car..? (By the looks at those polished head lights) LOL!

Looks nice or not too bad... Personaly I don't like big "boxy / large vent" looking kits on the R32s. Either the Nismo bodykit or a Origin / Vertex bodykit on R32 drift cars, 2 and 4 doors.

Normal. When the car starts up its gotta get the oil pumping which takes afew mins. Once oil has circulated the pressure drops / sits halfway / below. When you rev the car hard you should see it pump up alittle again normal.

Is called Heat Soak Evaporation. By spraying water on the intercooler while the car is driving forward and the air is blowing towards the intercooler, its basicaly "chills" the it, gets rid of the heat and makes the air colder going into the inlet plenum. You can program the water jets to start sparying when the car hits boost. But with all the water restrictions we have you better have a good sorce or water. LOL!

On idle after warm up it sits very low or bit above the 1st white bar. I believe its normal, I had a Nissan 280ZX and did the same thing. Its only on start up it goes rightup. When you revving / driving its goes up abit above the white bar.

Shouldn't be... Guess depends on how hard you drive it. The flywheel will just make you car take off better/easier... But when I got my clutch replaced I just did the whole lot, save me going back to the mechanic and more money spending. LOL! Best to do the whole lot.

I know you have considered twin turbos but add a supercharger on top of that... LOL! BTW it has been done before. Hehe!! NOS yeah not much of a fan. Only in video games.

Putting Apexi Pod in a stock box = just to keep the heat away from the pod and hide it. I gota friend who did that and it worked quite well. If your not running a large abount of boost just change it to a high flow panel filter.

I had a Blitz Nur Spec N1 exhaust on my R32. Friggin LOUD!

Some ppl remove just the wiper itself but leave the rotating mechanisiem on so there is no hole in the rear windscreen.

I rebuilt my stock turbos with steel internals. You Don't need to take out the engine to replace the turbos. Just have to remove all the piping on top till you get to the turbos.

I still got the receipt for my rear diff About $1380, thats recondition, installed ready to drive and it was not as much as I thought too. But get it check out 1st. I did it at Le Mans Automotive in Templestowe.

Thats is friggin sweet!!! You sold me on that one!

Oh BTW Orion, get a Rear Wheel Alignment done. Cuz you have change the rear suspension, its put the geometry out of whack and needs to be done cuz its 4WD. But I don't think that will help with the whirring noise. Or it might... But when you jacked it up at the diff, I don't think you would have crushed or bent anything in the diff... Anyway get ya mechanic to check it out. My diff made a similar noise when rolling and while driving. Sounded like a Wwhhoooo noise. So I got it reconditioned.

Ha! The good old Millenium Jade Nur Spec. Thats actualy a very nice photo!

http://carizma.com.au/ 4 York Street, Richmond Ph: 03 9415 7150 Fax: 03 9415 7160 http://www.kamikazemotors.com/ 34-42, Rooks Road Nunawading Victoria 3131 Phone: +61 3 9872 6699 Fax: +61 3 9872 6655 http://www.ontherunmotorsports.com/ 137A Westall Road Clayton South VIC 3169 +61 3 9547 8100 enquiry@ontherunmotorsports.com These ppl should be able to sorce one for you.

Prestige Motor Sport are quite good. I have 2 friends who have imported a S13 Silvia K's and a R33 GTS-T. Decent prices and fairly nice cars.

We can go HIDE at the duck place and eat half a DUCK and Bucket of rice. I should have got the duck that night cuz it tasted so good!

Hey man! Did the car make that noise before or is it only doing this on a cold start?

Newer engine I guess. All V-Spec's should be the same (Factory Stock) unless the owner(s) modified it.

The list just goes on... I think you have pretty much covered everything. Is there a Supercharger waiting to be added? While ya there, how about NOS LOL! BTW you got any pics of this beast!

TE 37's will looks nice IMO one of the best wheels made.