Mister25t

I have never had a good look at a RB20 block but i would presume it would just use the tapped hole in the block from the factory.

Yeah it was one of the first things I done to the car. Rates ups there with HICAS Also if you go that way with the RB20 mount it doesn't have provision for the oil pressure sender. Fortunately there is a tapped thread for it already on the block right below where it is positioned on the heat exchanger. I had to get a fitting from an engineering shop because the diameter of the oil pressure sender is too big and it was fouling on the webbing running down the block. It needed to come out just slightly to clear it (my oil pressure sender is a bit bent though. Somehow ). No biggie, just get a brass male and female adaptor 1/8"x1/8" bspt I think was the size. Then you can remove the plug in the block, fit the adaptor then screw your oil pressure sender into that and you're away.

On my 25 there was only an unthreaded locator for the heat exchanger coming out of the block. I ended up using an RB20 oil filter mount and connecting the coolant hoses to each other to bypass the cooler. If you could get a threaded insert from an RB30 block you could fit this in the unthreaded locators place and have the oil filter straight off the block. I end up going with the RB20 mount though as I already had a remote filter and cooler and it looked like the hoses to the remote filter would foul on the engine mount if it was in that close to the block. I also had to make up two longer fittings for the remote filter mount as the RB20 mount has the oil filter sitting directly over its center whereas the RB25 heat exchanger has the filter offset 30mm? or so towards the front of the car. Not much of a difference but enough that the hoses to the remote mount could no longer reach. Clears up a bit of space under there

PM Sent.

Aw yeah thats great news guys. Just me being bloody minded it looks like. I'm predicting that im going to have to drop the gearbox anyway so i didn't really take a good look over the whole housing to see all the marks everywhere. Thanks for the quick help and not burning me for being a dumbass. Just waiting on braided clutch line to arrive before i put the lot back together and see how it goes.

Hi there, I have owned my Series II R33 GTST for over a year and it has always had clutch troubles; at first suffering from feeling notchy and grinding the odd shift with the engagement point constantly moving but slowly getting worse with the clutch sometimes slipping when dumped hard and other times peeling the tyres over with little effort required and now when the engine is running it can't select a gear and tries to roll forwards like the clutch is not even disengaging at all. I havn't driven it in months as i havn't had the time to work on it, but this week i got some clutch cylinder rebuild kits to see if that would help (i have have tried bleeding it so many times) but today when i dropped the slave off i see that around the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing is all cracked. The cracks are pretty extensive and go right to the front face of the bellhousing and underneath as well but it seems that they have been caused by the operation of the clutch slave cylinder? Obviously im going to have to drop the gearbox to weld it up or replace the front housing but does anyone have any insight into the cause of this problem? The car supposedly has a brass puck clutch and the clutch pedal is quite heavy so could a heavy and perhaps failing clutch cause this sort of issue? Cheers for any input, just seems strange i've never heard of anything like it and couldn't find any reference on the forums either.

Hey, do you have the backing plate from the cam gear cover? Cheers.

Oh yea, thanks. No issues with it not lining up with the gasket?

You drill the smaller round holes to 9mm right?

The website link for the software in the manual PDF i downloaded from www.vi-pec.com takes you to www.linkecu.com ...

Nice work man. So the extra engine noise of a modified engine over stock triggers R&R not the extra airflow, tha be right? Bloody good thinking and thats got to be a record amount of power with a stock ecu.

Reckon it would fit a ECR33 if the factory oil/water cooler was removed? Cheers.