Sledge

R33, if its this, i wouldn't expect more than $100 to remove and install then another $100 for parts. But don't quote me, cause for all I know it could be something as stupid as a sqealing timing belt tensioner and they charge you $600 cause it took them all day to get it out and back!

If your certain on your belts then I'd be looking at the starter motor next. You could have a faulty/slow returning solenoid. What this means is that the starter motor is being turned over by the engine for a second or two until momentum returns the idler gear. The solenoid is the smaller of the two cylinders on the starter motor and is responsible for the throwing in and out of the gear. It could be as simple as the return spring being broken or dissengauged.

You'll find most post 1980 gear box's synchros can operate with quite a low viscosity and most engine oils will work fine. Auto tranny fluid isn't as bad as is it sounds and a 75-80 isn't that thin. You can quite happily add thickners to this oil if you wanna try it.

your going to need to describe the noise and when it occurs a bit more. Is it only when starting the car or just after started. How long does it last? ( ie as long as your turning the key)

This is the biggest problem with a BOV that's not suited to the engine. My guess is the unit isn't closing quickly enough, which effectivly releases all your intake air to atmosphere. So obviously your going to stall. You either need to re-work/re-adjust the valve for quicker closing or try another style/type/brand. Doubt they're going to give you any money back man, sorry!

I wouldn't recomend upgrading the throttle body untill you've at least fitted a larger lift/duration cam and had some port work done. All of which will will yield better power gains for the money spent. Only once you reach the limits of the factory throttle body should you think about changing it, any earlier and sluggish response and erratic behaviour will result. Like Warpspeed said, multiples are only usefull for hard tuned engines that need very controlled thottle positions. And they cost a bucket, try $2500 for an RB,SR or L-series 6 version.

Can anyone give me the address for the skid pan on saturday?

The best part was its got all the original stuff in the boot (except the exhaust) if I ever want to go back to standard. The condition of it was sweet. Driver seat bolstering was still good which says a lot for r32's

Gonna try and hook a video camera up inside the car to catch all my shit driving!

I got a 60,000Km, charchoal beauty, with 3" system, pod filters, z32 flow meters, GT2540's and power FC for $20K. Sweet. Just need to beaf that up a bit once it gets here!

R32. The prices are ridiculously cheap at the moment.

Definetly a good mod on N/A cause its cheap! Why you passing it on? Getting something better? Got a few more weeks till my GTR lands, and trying not to spend money on my hot-rod.

Auto. Then its second for sure. Have you sorted out everything now? Where's the next pile of money being spent?

Ok let me clarify the sueing issue for you. Local council look after maintenance on roads even though vic roads are the governing body for road location and type. Its completely in your rights to seak compensation for property damage due to poor quality or poorly maintained surfaces, but the problem lies in developing blame. To lodge a sucessful claim or to win in a court case you need to prove that the council was negligent in either they're road construction or maintenance. The problem here is that its near impossible to prove that it was they're fault that the pot hole developed. However if the pot-hole has been previously repaired and has yet again gone sour then you've got a start point. This proves that teh council have acknowledged that a problem exists and have put in place means to fix it which have failed. It is upon that failure that you have a basis for making a claim. alternatively if you can prove that the council have been made aware of potential problem and have not responded in an acording manner then again you have a basis for negligence. Finally if you're really out to screw them, you need to gather a group of people that can individually lodge a complaint to the council regarding the pot-hole and its potential danger to you vehciles safe driving. Then you need to allocate a suitable period of time to allow them to review all the complaints and then source a series of road repair agencies to see an approximate lead time for road repair. With these in hand, you just wait out that time and then lodge your claim stating that the incident occured after that period and thus the council made no attempt to fix the problem that had already been brought to they're attention. However proving how you knew about the complaints might be a bit difficult. GOOD LUCK!

You still got any spots left?

If your interested in maximum bang for buck then have a look at this http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=776885 How ever if your intending to keep your car drivable, then what we've discussed so far are the best options. 1st: make the car breath easier; fit free flowing filters and duct maximum velocity/vulume air at minimum temperature at it. Fit a free flowing exhaust system that has suitable backpressure for the engine type and modifications. (N/A cars need exhaust back pressure for optimum cylinder fill). 2nd: Fuel and ignition systems; Factory setups are always on the rich side to give better life span. Fitting piggy-back computer or replacement ECU's will yield fantastic results when tuned properly. 3rd: Component modification; I suggest starting with the head and examine porting sizes, shapes and their match to manifolds. The cam is also a good source of more power. From there look at your deck and head mating surfaces for more compression. Next is the inlet manifold which can always do with some tweaking. 4th: Component replacement; once at this stage you probably need to look at stronger rods, domed pistons, a new inlet manifold, larger throttle bodies and even bigger valves. 5th: Sell your house and go nuts!!!! But remember the old saying: Performance costs money, so how much do you want to spend?

In all the N/A applications where I have fitted extractors the power gains were only in the order of 5 odd kW, but performance was gained in faster peaking and flatter torque curves. For most turbo applications again peak power is only maginally affected (10 odd kW) when boost is kept the same. But usually a free flowing exhaust will allow slightly higher boost pressures dues to faster turine speeds. This coupled with the increased spool speed and flatter torque curve make for much happier driving.

Sounds good, the other place to try is performance exhaust in ringwood.

reliability is a completely different thing. That depends on how you drive it, and i'm not talking just revs. I'm talking lauches, changes, loading, heat (oil & water), maintainance, everything. Compression ratio will also depend on what fuel your going to use. Its near impossible to go past 12:1 without using very high octane fuel. How you intending on changing compression ratio? What ever it is make sure the valves have clearance to the pistons. Would suggest staying around 10 or 11:1 for 200kW. If done correctly, you can easily maintain excellent reliability and good drivability.

Regarding exhaust design, head modification or your mechanics tinkering?

No offence, but loud doen't necessarily mean optimum. You can easily optimise back pressure but keep noise levels down. You can also have a really loud exhaust that does little for performance. What did he do to fit its running performance?

Gee's and the curve still like that well something is restricting it.I guess the only thing left is extractors. Then you'll have to look at the head/ports and valves. Have you run a 1/4 in her yet?

I hand made mine, but you can get good ones made by the shops. I'm just running a 2 1/2" mandrel bent mild steel system with a resonator and a high flow hot-dog style mufler. A system like that shouldn't cost you more than about $250ish. Then with a set of extractors you'd definetly smooth the torwue curve out. Bigger numbers will then come once you start tweaking the cam timing and fuel map. Don't think for a second the factory fuel map is perfect!

Not bad! typical factory intake and exhaust though. That's whats producing the trail off in your torque curve. Fix that up and you'd find another 2o+kW. See here how a bit more torque can sweeten the deal up. Looks like hes running it in second too. Not a bad thing but the high the gear the lower the power figure can look, so don't be surprised if another dyno run in another gear gives different figures.

Cold air induction can make a massive difference if done properly. The colder the air the larger its density and thus the more molecules that can combine with fuel giving a bigger burn charge. But more power will usually only result if your air temp sensor and fuel map can adjust to the air temp change, which should be the case on a R33's map. Plus the denser intake in cruise conditions should give better fuel ecconomy. All provided your filter doesn't clog.