N-DAWG

Hi All I've reached the point where I'm spending more than I'd like to on my Skyline, I have bigger goals in mind and whilst the idea of living out of a car is tempting I really would like to invest in buying my own place and am considering giving up owning my pride and joy so that I can afford to live. So... I would like to know what I could expect to get (I know I'll never get my money back on parts, and especially the labour that I've spent on her)... and also any interest. 98 Model R34 25GT+t Sedan Silver Colour: 12x,xxx kms on the clock. Replaced timing belt, idler and tensioner pulleys and seals at around 105,000kms. The following is pretty much a summary of everything done: TURBO CONVERSION COMPRISING OF: - R33 GTSt Series 2 Turbocharger - Monsta FMIC Kit - TurboXS Plumbed back BOV - RB25DET NEO R34 GT-Turbo Injectors - Walbro GSS-342 255LPH/550HP Pump - Apexi Power Intake Pod Air Filter - JustJap Pod Filter Box - JJR 3" Mandrel Bend Front & Dump Pipe - Magnaflow 3" Hi-Flow Cat Converter - Custom Made 3" Mandrel Bend Catback System by Mild 2 Wild Exhausts - RB25DET Factory Exhaust Manifold - Just Jap Oil Cooler and Oil Relocation Kit - Splitfire Coilpacks - NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - GReddy Profec B Spec II Electronic Boost Controller (tuned for low boost 7PSI and high boost around 10-12PSI. - GReddy eManage Blue with optional harnesses and adaptors Starts spooling at around 1800revs reaches full boost very quickly due to the RB25DE NEO Engine. All turbo conversion work has been carried out and tuned by Hi-Power Racing, apart from the Catback system which was done by Mild 2 Wild Exhaust in Slacks Creek. I don't have a current peak power figure as the gearbox wasn't coping with the extra power, but the gearbox has had the rebuild and upgrade treatment in excess of 3 Grand! TRANSMISSION REBUILD & UPGRADE Automatic Gearbox fully Reconditioned by Western Suburbs Automatics - Overhauled Convertor and replaced Lock-Up PLate - Full set of Heavy Duty Kevlar Friction Plates / Clutch Packs - Heavy Duty Clutch Bands - New Bushings - New Solenoid Set - Heavy Duty Shift Kit Upgrade - Penrite Transmission Fluid SUSPENSION Carried out by Fulcrum Suspension - King Springs 30mm Lowered Front& Rear - KYB Shock Absorbers (replaced after purchasing the car, fitted by a local mechanic) - Whiteline Blade Adjustable Front & Rear Sway Bars - Whiteline Adjustable Camber & Castor Bushings WHEELS & TYRES - 18 x 8" Starcorp Mesh Alloy Wheels Shadow Chrome - Kumho Ecsta SPT KU31s Tyres 235/40 R18, still a lot of tread! I don't go burning rubber in the streets. BRAKES upgraded by The Brock Shop, and front calipers rebuilt by my local mechanic. - R33 GTSt Brake Calipers front and rear - R33 GTSt Brake Master Cylinder - R33 GTSt Brake Booster - Braided Brake Lines ADR Approved Custom Made by Brakewest - RDA Front Slotted Rotors - QFM K500 Street/Track Brake Pads Front - Bendix General CT Brake Pads Rear - UAS Unique Auto Sports Brake Master Cylinder Stopper - QFM K500's fitted and front & rear discs machined around 6 months ago. ELECTRONICS - DRiFT Ignite Series 2 Electronic Type 52MM Boost Gauge - Swoosh Electronic Stepper Motor SW60 Series Oil Temp, Water Temp, Oil Pressure Gauges - HID Headlight Conversion - 3A Racing Super White LED Parker Lights -LED Dash Light Conversion using 666DAN's LED's - NEO Gauge White LED GaUge Cluster LEDs - NEO Gauge White Climate Control Display LEDs - NEO Gauge Red LED Climate Control Button LEDs - Nismo Front and Side Clear type Indicators Complete stereo currently installed Body is in good condition with the exception of a bit of stone chips on the front bar and a scratch on the left of the car. An aftermarket front bar would finish the car of nicely and the left door scratch shouldn't be too much of a deal to fix. Other than that, the general wear and tear that 11 year old leather wheels and gear shifters have, otherwise in good shape and good condition for the age. The car is driven with respect, never seen the track (unfortunately for me). The gearbox oil has been changed on time with Castrol Edge 10W60 Performance Oil. The last oil change was only a few weeks ago along with the Just Jap oil cooler and filter relocation kit. Given the amount of work put into things like suspension, handling, brakes, the transmission... I'm sure this would make for a great car as is, or a project car for someone to complete with a lot of the ground work laid out (such as the aftermarket engine management, high performance fuel pump, oil cooler, rebuilt gearbox), this would make a great starting base for someone who wants a Project R34 4 Door, or looking for a daily driver/sleeper that they're prepared to invest more into. Also has Queensland Mod Plates for the Turbo Conversion. 6 Months Rego renewed starting from middle of this month. I have all the invoices and receipts for the work carried out... thousands of dollars spent!! Scary to look at in fact. Would love to keep her and put more into it, but I'm seriously reassessing my financial position and future. Cheers Nathan

hahaha i was meaning it to the OP lol I need a new air freshener, now you mention it.. might get something vanilla this time

Dude police attention is bad enough in a skyline... I'm sure they're going to find the fake turbo whistler very amusing... lol @ WYTSKY as a joke is funny.. but please, keep it off the Skyline, have some dignity!

I never changed my rear pads. I know the rear brake setup on the 25GT Sedan is different.. in my case 265mm rear rotors. That makes me think that the pads "could" also be different? If your R34 has the larger rear discs like the R33 GTS then it's probably more likely they'll be the same? I ended up doing the R33 GTSt brake upgrade front and rear. At least it's also easier to by brake pads and rotors.

There was a bit of discussion in this thread about converting a RB25DE to Carby, might be of some relevance: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...hl=dirty+thirty

This might be worth reading http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...html&hl=LPG http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...highlite=%2BLPG

Boot facing in works well IF you seal of the box properly. Otherwise you get bass cancellation. I think thats the right word for it... basically the primary and secondary waves cancel each other out, which is why it generally sounds better that way when the boot is open. The Crossfire Car Audio site used to have a good technical reference that explains the different subwoofer set ups for different types of woofers. (eg. band pass, isobaric, free air, sealed, ported, and some more elaborate types of woofers). It explained well how to properly install subs facing into the cabin in a sedan to eliminate the bass cancellation and reduce bass lost to panel vibrations. Basically comes down to how well you seal off the gap between the cabin and subs, and the boot. How exactly were you planning on putting the sub behind the drivers seat?

Been seeing a white R34 Coupe every day parked a street of Dawson Rd.. nice ride! Drove past you this morning (if you're on here) didn't get to wave though..

what mad082 said. I'm running my GT Box, rebuilt with kevlar clutchpacks and new clutchbands, brand new solenoid set, and valve body rebuilt. The shifts are a lot quicker, but the torque converter engaging when in tiptronic is definitely noticeable! After the revs flat for a bit and the torque converter fully engages then it's up n go from there. Mind you it's up n go to begin with, just the part where the torque converter engages that annoys me The other thing too is the condition of the gearbox. Before I got mine rebuilt, the flaring was fierce (I'll get around to posting up a short vid of what it was like from 1st to 2nd at mid-high revs), and the revs would fluctuate, and consequently boost was out of whack too (particularly with 10:1 compression). Since a rebuild the car drives a lot better, revs out much better and harder (besides the torque converter engaging around 2500revs)... but then again, my gearbox wasn't in the best condition when the rebuild happened.. I hardly think that metal debris in the gearbox pan is a good thing, but that's the price of seeking more power with an N/A gearbox... I read somewhere (I think it was 666DAN that posted it in a thread) that the torque engagement is different between being in D321 and Tiptronic modes... I don't really notice it if at all when in D321, but then again could be the way the gearbox is managing itself when in fully-automatic modes. Anyways, I can't really compare the auto to manual directly as I've only driven a tiptronic skyline, but from what I've read, if you're happy to give up the luxury of clutchless shifting on a daily driver, go for the manual! If you want the best of both worlds, then provided your gearbox is in good condition, do a valve body upgrade. In the end the power difference is going to be a case of how much power is lost at the transmission and driveline between the engine and the rear wheels which can be quite variable depending on age and condition.

Engine swap is one of the most straight forward ways around it. Getting a half cut that includes brakes would also be very good. Not sure on labour for an engine swap.

Hey mate, sorry already sold the turbosmart boost controller. Sorry mate. Everything sold except for: R34 25GT Fuel Pump R34 RB25DE NEO Exhaust Manifold

I'll find the link to the eBay store I bought my CF Adhesive from. It's a London based store iirc, but quick shipping, not too badly priced, and it's designed for external use, hasn't faded and I've had it on for months now

Yeah it's pretty much sheet metal, or plastic, that the pod is enclosed in. You can get one from Just Jap if you don't feel up to making one, though I'm not sure how well it will fit up on an R34 RB25DE NEO without modifying it a bit. Few pics here to give you an idea: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pi...de-t275332.html Even with a turbo set up I had issues with the pipe under the charcoal canister getting in the way of the box Appears to be slightly different from an R34 GTT.

Stage 2 Shift Kit provided your gearbox is in good condition. Mine was flaring a bit, then when I done the turbo conversion it showed its true flaring nature. Once I bumped the boost up, well lets just say the gearbox specialist found metal debris in the gearbox pan and 3rd gear was just about gone. If your gearbox is in good condition, a shift kit will help strengthen it and improve shifts. If it's not, it will prematurely #*%# the gearbox. Turbo model brakes make for a good upgrade. Might as well change the brake lines as well if they're in not so great condition. Brake West in Victoria can hook you up with lines to suit that are ADR Approved Braided Stainless Steel. As for fuel pump, I would go with a new pump and get say a Walbro GSS342. They're replacement pumps, good for 500HP (might be 550HP, can't remember of the top of my head right now) If you're looking at pushing that much juice though then you "may" need to look at injectors. GTT Injectors are straight replacements. You will need GTT injectors for an R34 unless you do a custom fuel rail as they're top feed but different to GTR injectors. If you want decent power without a turbo, than the RB isn't the best without investing a LOT of money for comparable results. When you say turbo, are you talking an N/A+t set up? or an engine swap? If you do an N/A+t, ensure your R34 GT Gearbox is in good condition, get the box strengthened! or swap and shift kit a GTT box. Get a transmission cooler (I'm yet to get one). Oil Cooler (a must, mines yet to go in). Ensure your intake temps are cool with the right intercooler and CAI set up. Combined with the turbo brakes and LSD should make for a great daily driver. Driveability will be nice and responsive too. On the note of driveability over outright power... have you done handling and suspension mods?

Either way you would be best to get a box for it. Not only will it be legal in the eyes of the law, you will shield it from heat soak. It would also look better in the eyes of the law as it shows that you have taken steps to comply.

I'm waiting in anticipation to see what you've got coming! I still think your nuts Any hints on what you've got in store? You're right about that... since doing my conversion I don't feel the need to rev it out as much anymore for street driving. I don't doubt that the DE blocks can take the pressure.. it's more a case of how reliable and for how long it can, but yours is living proof that they can take some pretty big boost without giving up the ghost.

I haven't seen any pop. In my opinion, what would most likely kill the engine is: - Not tuned properly resulting in detonation. eg. timing not adjusted correctly, not meeting the fuel requirements, too small injectors and/or fuel pump. - Inadequate fluid cooling, in particular on the neo's. Dori and I have both discovered how hot the oil temps run on an RB25DE+t Neo. 90 degrees after a 15minute drive to work isn't uncommon, 100degrees after driving on the motorway also not uncommon and it's not quite summer yet. A 13 row oil cooler will help in this area. I should have my kit fitted this week or next and will report back on the results. - Too high intake temps. A good FMIC will definitely help to reduce intake temps as with 10:1 compression you want to keep things cool. - Too much boost. Mind you I've seen the likes of WYTSKY running 15PSI through an R33 GTS4 RB25DE, but don't expect a set up like that to be long-term reliable (in my opinion anyways), it's fine if you're looking to rebuild later on. I still think that unless the engine is already in poor shape, you'll probably reach the limits of a stock factory turbo before anything else. - The driver/owner. Like any car, if you red line it day-in-day-out, don't maintain it, don't give it time before turning off the engine, etc.. you can't expect any car to last long. Don't skimp on a good tune, have adequate cooling where it's needed most, drive it sensibly (driving it on 7PSI on a daily and having a high boost option for 10-12 isn't going to hurt THAT much now.. ok it does hurt but you get by ok with 7PSI for just commuting to and from work), maintain and service regularly and it should be fine. Keep in mind that there are drifter's running RB25DE+t's as well. In my opinion, if it can handle the abuse on the track, albeit combined with good cooling solutions to match, then with the above taken into consideration there shouldn't be much of an issue. If I didn't see it that way, I wouldn't have done the conversion.

also spotted a couple of R32's at Mt Gravatt Red Rooster Saturday night, and a silver N/A R33 at JB HiFi Macgregor.. had a sticker on the back "I'd Rather Be Blown" lol and NEO32 also at JB.

Spotted a red R31 in Mt Gravatt of Logan Road, gave a nod on the way around as I saw the SCC09 Sticker. Spotted a silver R33 on Logan Road Saturday night, you turned off at Creek Rd, nice R33 mate

Those rims look mint!!! lovin those skids aye lol Bet you can't wait to get your oil cooler now!

You won't regret buying a wheel I actually don't know what Forza 3 is like with the game controller, but I had the same thing when playing Forza 2.. you reach a point where you really need the wheel and pedals.

Didn't know you were running a GB on these! Thanks for telling me! lol Put me down for one pending fitment for R34 GT

Have you changed your timing belt n idler tensioner pulleys before it happened? When I done mine I got a high pitch screech sound in higher revs n even when revving in neutral, but only when I had climate control on. I took it back n they just adjusted a couple of belts n problem gone. Just when you mentioned climate control it sounded similar to the issue I had.

I would "think" that 3" would be an adequate size, unless you want more top end or you're pushing insane amounts of boost on a DE with Stock Internals *points at Adam* lol You're fairly limited as to how much you can push through an N/A+t, so best to pick an exhaust size that would give you a good balance, or suitable for the goal you want to achieve. Either way though, on an N/A+t you're certainly going to have a dramatic increase in air flowing through the engine.

Volumetric Efficiency. Think of it as drinking with a thicker straw compared to a thinner straw. Takes more effort to fill the larger straw, but ultimately flows more and is more efficient when it's full. The thinner straw will fill quicker but will be less efficient after this point. Forced induction set ups make easy power through compressed air. Force more air in the same physical space by compressing it with the turbo charger. Therefore it's easy to fill the volume of the exhaust, particularly when you increase the amount of boost being used. Therefore it makes sense to use a larger diameter exhaust so as not to be restrictive and make more power. An N/A skyline relies on the displacement and revs to make power and achieve volumetric efficiency. Too large an exhaust, and response down low will be sacrificed for more top-end gain in the higher rev range. Too small and you'll limit top end efficiency. 2.5" is a good compromise between the two, particularly for a daily driver. I've used 3" on my N/A+t; I think Adam's used 3.5"? I believe Dan used 2.75" Back when he done his N/A+t conversion, though with 7PSI that would make for a nice responsive set up. Don't forget that in an N/A+t you're combining 10:1 compression with Boost, so there is more response and torque in the bottom end, so 3" is an ideal size for your typical N/A+t conversion. Depends what you're going for in the end.. outright top-end power, or a car that drives well on a daily basis.