N-DAWG

Give the guys at Fulcrum Suspension a call. I'm not sure where in Brisbane you are, but they have a branch in Yeerongpilly and Capalaba. When I had mine done I was fairly new to Brisbane and called the Capalaba branch before realising how much further it was from where I lived... it was however a much cheaper quote and the guys in Yeerongpilly were able to match the price. Fulcrum can supply king springs and whiteline parts, and they also sell the Aussie version of the Tein Coilovers. I'd have to dig up my invoice to see how much it cost.

Tyres. Start with some good tread which will improve handling, braking and getting power to the ground and keeping it on the ground. Next stop would be suspension. Whiteline Sway bars, and Whiteline or King Springs. That will improve handling and cornering, ultimately allowing you to drive the car faster around curves and corners. If you want to use a pod filter, then make sure it's enclosed and run a CAI, otherwise expect it to swallow heat and decrease performance. Your best bet would be to use a hi-flow panel filter in the factory box. I done the above on my 4 Door N/A R34 GT for a year before turbocharging, and I would recommend you doing the same. The next step, without going the forced induction route, would be: Extractors: DKNE from Australian Based Seller, or the well tried and tested Coby Extractors from PartsCo in New Zealand. Best to get them Coated in Hi Temp and wrapped. Don't wrap them without doing the treatments first or expect corrosion. Extractors will help the engine rev out easier, and give you more response in the mid-range. Remember Japanese engines typically make power through revs, and helping your N/A breathe and rev out easier will help you attain peak power quicker. Catback: 2.5" Mandrel Bend Catback system. There's little-to-no options in off-the-shelf solutions, and when you find them they're very expensive. Best to get a custom system done. You can go 3" which will give you more top-end, but this will hinder your goal of improving accellaration as power down low will be decreased. Hi-Flow Cat Converter: The Japanese cat's are removed at compliance and the compliance cats are crap to say the least. Don't risk running without a cat (big fines, and you'll attract attention as the back of your car will be black). After all that, then it's really on to the most expensive part which is port n polishing the head, cams, cam gears, engine management and yeah things start getting pricey from there. Don't expect a HUGE increase in power. Getting big power out of a 2.5Litre inline 6 costs a lot. Another thing you could do depending on the condition of your gearbox is a shift kit, also known as a valve body upgrade. Western Suburbs Automatics rebuilt my gearbox with heavy duty components and also done the valve body and shifts are very quick! 1st to 2nd is a bit rough, but you get used to it. This will help you get through the gears quickly and obviously improve acceleration. Don't forget the car needs to stop too after adding power so some brake upgrades, even if its just discs and better pads and some good fluids will be of benefit.

It will just be a noise maker and will attract too much unwanted attention for little gain. If you attract cop attention now, then good luck to you afterwards. If the noise is above the legal limit then expect a defect. If it's loud in general and attracts unwanted attention, expect to get pulled over and have cops look at your engine bay trying to find parts you don't have. keep in mind your N/A R34 won't sound like a Turbocharged R34 as far as exhaust sound goes. On a turbocharged car, the turbo actually muffles a lot of the noise. If it's a good quality cannon (not an el cheapo cannon that sounds like a fat man farting in a can) then you could use it as part of a custom catback exhaust system. Get a 2.5" Mandrel Bend system made up, use a hi-flow resonator/mid-muffler to quieten it down without being restrictive and get some sort of gain for the extra sound being added. Unless of course a noisy N/A R34 is your thing.

A jolt from 1st to 2nd sounds like a valve body upgrade, but the rest sounds rather strange =/

Interested, pending being able to get time of work though. How much is the track booking fee?

1.9GB on the bonus disc iirc. Still gotta unlock my extras.. got my new internet quota today so all good now

bahaha I lol'd

haha the good ol' old school fairlady.. I remember that in Forza 2, monster of a car when you do the powertrain swap and lighten it! Yeah 2GB stick.. just like the Sandisk Cruizers by the looks of it.. I have a Black Sandisk Crossfire Cruizer.. they were promoted a couple of years ago as being good for Xbox 360 and they made a white version also, so it makes sense for them to use Sandisk in this package. I've only driven the Nissan you start out with and the Alfa that I unlocked. Stuck on the Nissan for now since I've gone so far with it.. it is great fun to drive lol Oh and yes, artificial speed bumps FTL! I keep forgetting about the rewind feature, try not to use it to be honest lol Takes the skill factor out of it lol I love that the old tracks are still there too like Tsukuba and Suzuka! You can really feel the difference in the game engineering when comparing same-tracks. Have to admit though the intros on the races remind me a bit much of NFS which is both good n bad I guess... one one hand it gives the game a more "fun arcadey" feel to it, but the game still maintains its life-like simulation which is good.. nice compromise between the two instead of it being a rugged racing simulator.

Oh and by launches, I mean it does 0-97km/hr in little of 3 seconds It has been gutted though... BUT there's still a decent amount of power left to unlock in it..just need to do more races to get cash

LOL that little Nissan that you start out with is awesome!!! I'm pumping out 300+ kw on it Stroke it out to 2.1Litres, throw in some cams, get it breathing, do a turbo conversion on it (I've only gone with the sports turbo thus far), throw in a roll cage, buddy club P1's wrapped in some decent compound, and most importantly AWD DRIVETRAIN CONVERSION! Once I discovered the Drivetrain conversion that was it! Makes for an awesome car! Still understeers a bit but nowhere near as bad as FWD! You can still get it sideways though with the AWD despite its tendency to understeer, in fact I got the drifter achievement in it But yes, the thing friggin LAUNCHES!! I've got the level 1 brakes at the moment, needs more stopping power though... LSD was a must, just went with a 1.5 way. But yes, with it stroked out, blown, bigger cams, upgraded pistons.. that little Nissan is soooo damn quick! Oh and transmission! Didn't go as far as a racing transmission, just the sports one and it smashes through the gears quick enough. Anyhow, I think 4 hours is enough Forza 3 for the night haha Definitely worth buying!! Night all

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!!!! I must say pretty impressed thus far... the game play definitely is smoother than Forza 2. In car view is awesome!

turns out K-Mart at Garden City put there's on the shelves early!! Apparently they're gonna get in shit for it too lol Good news is, it means EB were able to give me my pre-order a day early

98RON would be the best thing you can put in it. I used Shell V-Power for a year, then switched to BP Ultimate when I had the conversion and dyno tune done. Both are good in my experience, never had any issues.

So looking forward to picking up Forza 3 today... then realised it was 23rd that it's available, not 22nd

shuddering sounds more like warped discs. If they're overly glazed they'll be very smooth and mirror like, lacking bite. Machining the discs (provided you have enough thickness left to machine) would be cheaper. The expensive part is the labour. If you take the discs in yourself its a lot more affordable. Buying an extra pair of rotors is good for being able to interchange between machining for the sake of convenience.

$77 =O Now you tell us! lol Can't wait till Thursday to pick up my pre-order

You've got a GTV, which is more-or-less a GTT with an RB25DE NEO. Suspension, LSD, Brakes should all be GTT Spec.

Wollongong Roads are a bit of a mix, but for the most part pretty bad, particularly around the CBD. The dodgey road repairs never cease to amaze. Don't really drive around Sydney but as far as being a passenger goes, I've seen some pretty bad roads... must say I'd prefer driving on Brisbane roads

Spotted Silver R33 on Granard Road Friday night, and parked next to a nice clean black R33 in G City today

Splitfires

I thought the R34 DE NEO's didn't have the blanking bolt? Only the R33's and earlier? interesting. Pretty sure they T'd off the pressure switch or something.. I'm really not entirely sure. They didn't tap the block though due to the risk unless they took the engine out first.

Sorry to hear about your clutch... but I reallly can't wait to see how this is gonna turn out!!

On second thought, if you had a GTV you wouldn't be thinking of R33 brakes. If you need brake lines to suit R34 Sedan with R33 calipers, Goran at Brakewest should still have the info for the ADR Approved Braided Lines he made up for me. R34's need a lot of stopping power.. you'd think being a Sedan they would have opted for the larger brakes but nooo..

Location? Colour? If you're in Brisbane try out Option 1 Garage, they always seem to have body panels listed.

Shano, is yours a 25GT or 25GTV? In my case I sourced the R33 Calipers/Rotors/Hubs n Uprights. I was told that I would need them by a garage who'd recently done the same brake upgrade. I took it to a different garage to do the job (didn't want to go up north side), and maybe the Sedan is different cause the bolt sizes on the R33 Hubs/Uprights didn't fit. Instead they simply modified the existing ones on my car to fit the calipers. The R34 25GT Sedan has 280mm F and 265mm R rotors though so well worth the size upgrade either way.