N-DAWG

hahaha 1000hp FWD Honda!! yeah that is pretty bad lol I'm thinking more about the endurance races! I guess a rewind function would also be good if you're continuously making the same mistake on a certain corner as you can practice that corner without restarting the entire race.

haha same here ABS but no TCS or accel/brake lines... need some realism I must say the rewind function of Forza 3 is going to be interesting.. IMO it shouldn't exist, though I can see where it will help supress rage when spinning out on a final lap lol Driving without ABS might be a bit different in a simulator, if the brake pedal was simulated. I'm not sure if the G25 does that at all, or if it just has a preset resistance? Oh and once you adjust to playing with the steering wheel, you won't go back!! If you play new games straight up with the wheel it's easier too than switching between controller and wheel. There's just more variable input, particularly when you get to higher powered cars, though the thumbsticks on the controller make it easy to rapidly turn for some sliding fun

hahaha noice!

More torque but I think it lowers the compression slightly? I'm not entirely sure.

yeah i hear ya on the clutter lol I bought it and am glad I did! I bought the Micro$oft wheel, can't comment on the others as I haven't used them. For Forza I think it's a "must have". I got to a point in the game where the controller just wasn't cutting it anymore.

Hey Peter welcome to the forum! I've replied back to your PM. This thread would probably be best moved to the FI forum where a comparison can be made in said context. Have advised Peter the same for future power-related questions for his R33 GTS-t

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 ? Apart from that all I can think of (at least in an N/A Application) would be your silicon vacuum lines and possibly induction pipe. Messing around with the induction setup on the R34 RB25DE NEO engines isn't the best idea as they're designed a special way for optimum efficiency, and even then a metal pipe would be best. To swap your water hoses, well there's your cost of the parts, plus your hourly labour rate and new fluids. Besides looks there's really not a whole lot of reason to do it, unless of course your hoses are worn out and you're looking at an aftermarket option, at least in an N/A application anyways. Your OEM hoses are going to withstand the heat easily. Lets say it takes an hour of labour, you're looking at close to $200 just for nice looking hoses. Better off putting that money towards upgrading the air filter, or add more on top and get a catback system made up and get some real-world benefits.

meh.. Duck Call BOV FTW haha

How does this relay effect N/A+t conversions? or is it really a non-issue with tuning and all?

Are you talking inclusive of the ECU? Or just the injectors and fuel pump? Fuel pump and GTT injectors are straight swap.

Exactly why I love Forza! I don't mind the NFS series from time to time, in fact I played a fair bit of undercover and didn't mind it, BUT it's more of an arcade fun style game though. Nothing beats a good realistic racing sim like Forza!! If ONLY Micro$oft supported the G25 The xbox wheel isn't toooo bad, but would be nice to have the support of a good cross-platform wheel like the G25.

Pre-Purchased my special edition today also NFS Shift is looking pretty good too as far as detail n all goes.. haven't played it yet, but for now Forza 3 is next on my list!

Peter, are you talking about the silicon hoses used primarily in turbo applications, or silicone radiator hoses?

Legalis R. expensive though. Best to get a custom one made up

I'll get my order and payment in shortly, just gotta figure out sizing and I'll shoot through a PM. Cheers Nathan

I had it in for close to a year, never had to reoil it in that time, didn't get very dirty either. Done around 6,000kms in that time though.

Hey mate no probs, happy to help I can't remember the part no, I went to a shielded Apexi Pod filter when I done the conversion and the R34 GT airbox wouldn't have worked out. It should be on K&N's web site? I think I paid around $70-80 for it? was retail price put it that way, I just took out the compliance filter pretty much straight away lol

I had good results with the K&N Panel. Easy to source one too. R34's aren't too bad for getting air into the air intake with the snorkel. Cold air feed will always help with getting coldest possible air to the engine. Remembering with an N/A the aim is to remove the restrictions as much as possible (doing so with the filter) and then cooling the air with the cold air feed to make the extra power. I never set up an additional cold air feed, though if the cooler night air performance was anything to compare to, it would be well worth it! You could run a cold air feed from behind the front bar up into the cold air box, use something like a flexible tube. That way you'll get cold air into the air box and still have the heat resistant properties of the factory airbox. You'll have to go beyond CAI, Extractors, Cat-Back before you'll need a copgy back. The R34 relearns quite well. If anything, just reset the ECU afterwards by disconnected Neg terminal on the battery, put foot on brake for 10 seconds, reconnect, then let the ECU relearn your driving style.

i see... i should know the RTA restrictions lol I only grew up in NSW for 21 years lol I think a lot of states are getting more restrictive, but even moreso when you have a P Plate!

For some reason I thought it was also modifications which alter the performance?

Spotted MR R34 Saturday Night near the city, gave a wave out the window from waayy across the road lol

A little or a lot. I used a misx of 2nd hand and new parts.. biggest killer in costs is the labour and tuning! I've lost track of costs now, they always get added to, whether its an EBC and tune, rebuilding a half dead gearbox, or just throwing in some gauges to see how hot my oil is actually getting and that I probably should consider the cost of an oil cooler in summer. really allow between 3k-5k. Also consider that the brakes on an R34 25GT Sedan (not the GTV) are piss poor. 280mm front discs and 265mm rear discs with 2 and 1 pot calipers is really a joke so factor in a brake upgrade to something like R33 GTSt brakes, and custom lines to suit. You'd be best getting sorting out things like suspension, sway bars, tyres, brakes etc.. before throwin on a turbo. if you've already done those things, then start saving and way up the balance between an engine swap and a conversion.

K&N Panel in the box would be your best bet. That's what I done till I had my conversion done, and even then there's panel filters that still flow very well for that application. As Andrew said, they really need to be shielded from the heat soak in the engine bay. Stick with a high flow panel in the box and it will go unnonticed and you won't compromise the small gains to be had.

vutututututut You'll be needing one of these *runs*