N-DAWG

Are we TF2ing tonight?

The poster instore never mentioned anything about the limited edition.. least not in the store I went to. They were super busy at the time too so I didn't get to ask anyone. I got Forza 2 collectors edition box set from JB HiFi when it came out and iirc it was around $75-$80? much cheaper either way

You can pre-order at EB Games, but what I'm keen to know is where we can pre-order the limited edition Forza 3 that I've heard about..

I've been asked to come out to a business dinner with my boss and a client... I'd much rather stay home and frag till my remaining 275MB of quota is gone haha So if anythings going ahead tonight I'm keen to know

Your Factory ECU will still continue to function as normal and control shifts, the eManage will remap the fuel map and ignition signals +/- what the tuner sets. Basically the ECU will continue to function oblivious to what's going on, and the eManage takes over to correct it.

I thought it was also something along the lines of emissions leaving the engine without being filtered through the cat converter? or something to that effect?

R34 GT? Injectors are smaller as is the fuel pump. Whether you'll need an uprated fuel pump and injectors for <140kw I'm really not sure, but it's not a bad idea and best to be safe and allow room for expansion later on. I'm really not sure at what point they reach their full duty cycle though. Once again you'll need to look at how you're going to handle fuel AND timing, being an auto eManage Blue or EMU would be your best choice as you have an auto. You're after low down response and torque over pure power, so the saying it's the power under the peak power curve that counts holds true here. You want to make the majority of your power down low and in the mid-range of the power band, but you don't really want to sacrifice TOO much top end either IMO. Therefore I think an RB20 turbo would be a bit small... whilst it will spool up quickly, high compression will help that anyway and I think you'll be better off with an RB25 turbo to get a nice balance, not to mention the age of the turbo. With 3" from the turbo-back w/hi-flow cat and an R33 Turbo, 5PSI is achieveable VERY quickly! Around 2000rpm. A factory SMIC will bemore responsive, though with high compression turbo you want to ensure adequate cooling, but for 5PSI I think you should be ok.. go with a R34 SMIC as they're thicker and a common upgrade for R33GTSt, and get the duct/shroud to ensure cold air flow to it. Provided your gearbox is in good condition, I would look at also doing the valve body upgrade to strengthen the box and make shifts quicker, provided it is in good condition though! My box was flaring a bit, and after the turbo conversion it showed me how bad it realy was. After adding more power well it's now in getting completely overhauled. At 5PSI though with a good box you shouldn't have too much problem, though with a torquey set up there's that to consider. SO yes, a good box, valve body upgrade I believe should see you well and make the most of that low down response.

Yeah skies starting to go orange up here :S I can hear a remix of a Deep Purple song coming along... Dusttt on the waterr... FIRE IN THE SKY!! Sorry couldn't resist

i've had a few tuners tell me they wouldn't recommend that. Yes you'll run more boost with lower compression, but you still have DE pistons which have different heat properties etc.. and it defeats the purpose of a DE+t which is very responsive. I don't believe you'll need a new AFM unless you make it past the limits of the stock one, in which case you would go MAP Sensor or Z32 AFM. I don't know if there's any difference between an R32 RB20DE AFM and the R33/34 RB25DE ones, but in the case of the RB25DE AFM's they're fine for this sort of thing till you start pushing past 200rwkw. Edit: I'm not actually entirely sure what the precise limit is of the stock AFM, but from what I see it seems that after 200 odd, you start looking at a Z32 or MAP? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's late and I'm in need of sleep lol

Some good parts there, good luck with the sale! That engine would be good for someone looking to rebuild it for a GTS4 with a lot of power in mind.

There's a number of us that do/have run it on stock internals. In fact I'm pretty sure I've only seen one (that's posted in the N/A+t Power Results Thread) that has changed internals, and even then it was only really bearings and head gasket. The biggest issues you will have really is the transmission not coping if you give it decent power and a lot of it, if you absolutely flog it all the time (like any car it won't like it), and probably an even bigger problem... wanting more power and limiting one's self with adding more power, cause as we all know it's very easy to just add more power with a turbo.

Try posting in the Naturally Aspirated Section, with luck you'll porbably find someone who's ready to do an engine swap.. it's worth a shot.

hahaha same same! Ah well, still great articles as usual

From what I understand yes, though I would only really do that as an in the mean time thing though. PowerFC is a good option as you can just replace the ECU, definitely a worthwhile option. Have a look into Nistune.. I know the GT NEO ECU's can't be Nistuned yet, but I'm not sure about the R33... if a R33 GTS ECU can be Nistuned then you should be good. If not an a R33 GTSt one can be Nistuned, then maybe go that way? To be honest I don't know a great deal about Nistune boards so I'll leave this to someone else to clear up. Oh and whether I do a manual conversion, or get another used box, I'm still potentially buying someone elses problems. My car's primarily a daily driver to and from work and I like having a semi-auto. Yeah it's still the slush box underneath it all, but you still have more control with a semi-auto than a traditional auto box. I'd rather invest the money into a rebuild and know that I have a rock solid reliable transmission, plus quick shifting FTW I'm looking at a rebuild with Heavy Duty Kevlar clutch packs and clutch bands, replacing the solenoids, and valve body upgrade Should be sweet, should have it back tomorrow!

The benefit of something like an eManage or Power FC is the ability to tune ignition timing. My tuner tells me that the R34's don't need a LOT of adjustment as they are quite good at adjusting timing, though their o2 sensor is apparently a pile of #*@ lol You want to be able to tune ignition timing so as to stave of detonation. Running more timing will get you more power, but at a cost, and with high compression things can turn ugly easily if timing isn't retarded. A SAFC is exactly what it stands for.. Super Air Flow Controller. It will adjust fuel accordingly but won't touch timing. This is where the GReddy eManage piggy back systems are great (particularly for auto's) is that they provide fuel and ignition remapping, without replacing the ECU, and in an auto the shift logic is in the ECU. In your case I would invest in a Power FC as it's not a piggy back wiring job = cheaper install! You might pay more for a Power FC but you're paying for more funcitonality and the actual product than you are the balance in labour to install the thing. With all that said though, I believe that rotating the crank angle sensor will advance and retard timing? so really that combined with a GTSt computer (which will work well with GTSt injectors) should be ok till you sort out your ECU and tune. Either way you look at it though, tuning is going to make it run a whole lot better! and yes Adam, the damage is NOT going to be good! However it will be rebuilt with kevlar clutch packs and clutch bands, replacing solenoids while it's out (for good measure really and to ensure the pressure is maintained), and they're working on a better quote to try and accomodate a valve body upgrade into my budget. so... whilst it's not going to be cheap, it's going to be a lot more reliable, and a LOT more fun!! With a rock solid box and quick shifts, i won't be adding boost in a hurry since I'll be getting the power to the wheels more efficiently! It will be no more slipping 3rd gear! =D

Just run a JJR 3" front and dump.. they do the job well, is what I'm using. de-cat pipe? Yeah.. cops will see all the black on the back end of your car, pull you up, check the cat, and good luck to you coming out of that one near-alive! I believe the R33 GTS RB25DE just has a blanking bolt for the oil. The R34 not the case, though there's a few ways around it without tapping the block. From what I read you have a manual gearbox, therefore you can just replace the ECU completely with a PowerFC, or you could run a piggy-back with an eManage Blue or EMU. If you're serious about not pushing it past stock boost and just having a basic bolt-on conversion, just go with a GReddy eManage Blue Piggy Back System, BUT, make sure you put those zenner diodes in, unless the R33's don't have the same issue? If it's a series 2 they have built in igniters so I'm really not sure, perhaps Dan could clear that up? Allow $300-400 for a eManage Blue with optional fuel and ignition timing harness + $300-350 for install + $500-600 for a PROPER tune. Don't skimp on tuning with a DE+t. This furthermore states my opinion on doing things like exhaust etc.. from the beginning. Do it once do it right. I've learnt that lesson the hard way, more times than I'd like to admit. and yes Adam, those bugs do bite hard! Just as hard as the bugs that come out of other components that don't appreciate a lot of power! My baby's getting a complete gearbox overhaul now There was metal debri around the clutchpack seals and in the gearbox pan... hardly sounds like a good thing lol

Your clutch would be up to scratch then. I can't comment on the manual gearboxes (there was mention in another thread somewhere comparing gearboxes, I'll try find it) Adam's running stock internals.. the only one I've seen posted here that wasn't stock internally was Tiffany (RB_turbo_bitch) and she's using new bearings and rings, but still DE pistons. RB25DE's run 10:1 compression ratio, both in RB25DE and RB25DE NEO. Even at stock boost I would recommend running at least a GTR pump, though for ~$150 you would be best to get something like a Walbro GSS342. Bosch 040 is more expensive but also another option. I reckon you shouldn't have too much trouble getting hold of GTSt injectors, I would use them as a minimum. You do NOT want to starve an engine of fuel, better safe than sorry than to risk leaning out the engine and killing it. By supporting mods I would be referring more to things like Front/Dump Pipe, catback, hi-flow cat, hi-flowing pod filter with box and CAI. Improving the flow of your exhaust will help get exhaust gasses out of the engine quickly which will help with making power, getting through the rev range efficiently, and also with getting heat out of the engine efficiently. Also the larger injectors and fuel pump will mean that the dollars you spend on tuning aren't so wasted if/when you need to increase the fuel supply. I know you're only looking at smaller figures at the moment, but once you get used to the extra power, believe me you will want more! Once upon a time I said I would be happy with just running 7PSI... and at least you're prepared either way then.

Ask Dori34, he knows all about gearbox/clutch after a turbo My auto box showed me its true flaring nature after the turbo. It's in today to see whether a valve body upgrade/service and cooler will help clear things up, or if it's past that point... hopefully I've got it in time though!

7PSI is around the happy medium. Some have pumped through a lot more (refer WYTSKY) and still living to tell the tale. 15PSI to be exact. i've been running 7PSI (low boost) and high boost is supposed to be tuned for around 10, but it seems I've got a faulty actuator so it climbs to around 12. I've got another actuator which will see it running 10, but it should be fine I reckon. I think you'll hit the limit of the turbo before the engine really... It's worth noting that 666DAN ran his DE+t at 7PSI for a decent time (was it 50 or 70,000 kms?) before the car got stolen. With the right supporting mods, expect between 160-175rwkw. Better figures if you're running a manual transmission. You'll also reach the limit of other non-turbo components like gearbox/clutch too before anything else.

Spotte a 4 door R33 at Western Suburbs Automatics

Spotted a silver na r34 4 door today in my gravatt logan rd, nice and clean ride! I wasn't in my skyline, instead getting some exercise walking to garden city lol and just seen a white r32 on the kessels/Logan rd intersection with a big NOS sticker on the side and a heap of smaller vinyls o_O and now a nice clean black R34 coupe

I'm eventually wanting to get out to occasional track days, though I do have a couple of things to sort out incl. transmission before I feel safe about putting the car on the track. A day lke this would be fantastic for someone like me. What sort of costs and requirements for a day like this?

Does look rather tiny

or you can read the post that the picture was in mentioning it being an auto n/a.. if that's what you meant. otherwise yeah gearchanges really

Talking about exactly that.. underneath all that body and GTR badge is just an N/A Auto lol Not that I have anything against Auto's, I drive one myself.