N-DAWG

I believe I know which one you're talking about. It's a vacuum line. There's a vacuum assembly towards the back of the engine, two vacuum lines run together past near the power steering reservoir, one of them goes into the airbox, the other one keeps going down to the charcoal canister. The one that goes to the airbox just needs to be tucked away when you remove the box to fit a pod. Don't block this vacuum line! This vacuum line ultimately connects to the variable air intake control actuator in the intake plenum on RB25DE NEO's. Basically when you look at the intake plenum where the Y piece connects to it, you'll see the rod for the solenoid. Inside the middle of the plenum is a butterfly valve that partially separates the intake into 2 parts. At around 4700RPM this valve in the plenum opens completely. This is to assist with response in the low RPM on the N/A RB25DE NEO Motors. If this vacuum line is blocked, this valve won't function properly and power will be lost. Tucking it out of the way and removing the airbox for fitment of the pod won't effect anything, so long as the vacuum line isn't blocked.

Depending on how fussy you are with brands/weights etc... http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products.asp?...dow/Silver/Gold There's a few mesh style multi-stud patterns there.

They'd be 16s. The tyres will say R16 if they are, or R17 if they're 17" which I highly doubt. Why not get factory GTT wheels? I suspect they'd be easier to come by private sale? Have a look through the for sales or post a wanted to buy. If you go with 17s you'd want to make sure the tyre profile is suitable though so as to maintain the same, or close to the same rolling diameter to ensure a happy speedo. There should be a compliance sticker in the door jams which should have that info on it as well.

Plenty of modded ones out there, unless you want to keep a 4 door? 6k is a very reasonable budget given labour and tuning etc... plus all the other various bits and pieces like custom lines, joins, any pipe welding, spark plugs...plan that budget well and you'll come through quite nicely. An R33 turbo will be fine, R34 turbo would be better though the 33 will give bit better low down response. R34 turbo should handle bit more boost than an R33 turbo (as far as I'm aware), and is more likely going to be in better/newer condition. I'd already gone so far with my 4 Door GT that it simply wasn't worth selling... that and I done suspension/brakes/wheels/tyres before deciding to turbocharge or stick with N/A performance (either way I was keeping the car). My four door attracts little-to-no unwanted attention, so that's always a bonus there's a lot more out there for two door though which does make life easier when it comes to sourcing parts. You'll also find that the R34 25GT Four Door has 280mm front and 265mm rear rotors, so if you keep it then I would suggest upgrading front AND rear brakes. Goran at Brakewest in Victoria made up my braided ADR approved lines to suit R34 4 door with R33 GTSt Calipers. The mechanic who done my brake upgrade was also able to fit the calipers by modifying the exisiting hubs/upgrights. The R33 GTSt hubs I got didn't fit to the R33 GTSt calipers which was rather strange... either way it should save you a few dollars by not having to buy hubs/uprights.

Awesome photography there Zennon! How much money was raised for Youngcare?

hahaha I can't imagine an owner of an R35 being impressed by the dirt road and gravel though lol

Awesome day out! This was my first SAU cruise, must say a great bunch of people and a very well organised event. Thanks!

I'd like to know a bit more details on the pinelands meet up also as I'm in Mt Gravatt. I bought all my polishing products yesterday, going to have a crack at doing it myself this time around

Hey, unfortunately I don't have one to help you out with, but you might want to mention where abouts you're located and see how you go...someone local to you will probably be able to help you out

Whoa!!

Do a search on this forum for exhaust and there's plenty of info. Bascially it comes down to volumetric efficiency. Yes 3" will work but response down low is sacrificed. I could go into it in further detail but my flight is boarding now lol

Spotted a nice silver R33 Series 2 in Bellambi a couple of times last week.. very clean nice exhaust tone too

Absolutely Dan, haven't had any problems since! It's cheap assurance really, for what it's worth.

Pretty much. In this pic the one in the middle is good, the two on either side are dead: Good coilpack: Dead coilpack: I lost three in one go that night.. had to get towed home as she barely made it up the tilt-tray tow truck.

I could tell the difference between my good and dead coilpacks... the tops had popped on em >_> I've fixed my GReddy eDamage since then though lol Sometimes they can get little hairline cracks in them too.

120,000 kms out of a tank???

Welcome to the forum! I suggest you read this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html and probably this thread before a repeat happens: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sm...kw-t273215.html And this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...-E-t138169.html Only way you're really going to get that sort of power out of an N/A engine is forced induction and a lot of boost, unless you do some pretty drastic modding! getting 200KW out of an R33 GTSt is one thing, out of a GTS is another.

hissing sound could simply be your induction sound from the pod filter.. Don't know about the grinding sound.

Don't need an R33GTSt master cylinder by any chance?

with 18x8's and 30mm lowered king springs, I don't lose any of my turning circle, full lock no scrub

ahh i see, thanks for clearing that up for me

I thought "red" dragons were faster? *confused*

I'll be back in Brisbane again before this date so count me in

loll this threads great, now its moved to best cars to root in lolz

So long as your offset is right, you don't go stupidly wide, and your "rolling diameter" is as close as possible to stock, you should be fairly safe. There's a +/-% variance for the rolling diameter I believe.. I've replaced my 225/50 R16 Stock wheels/tyres with 18x8's in 235/40 Tyres. I think my offset is +38, though I reallly can't remember of the top of my head.. needless to say it fits perfectly and I have no problems whatsoever with driveability. If you have rims that just look too big for the car, and an offset that has the wheels too far in or too far out that it's obvious, then expect to have problems with defects. Also a wheel that doesn't stand out TOO much (such as big chunky chrome rims) will help reduce the amount of attention you get. If you do a google search you'll find a wheel calculator that will tell you the variance in your speedo reading at a given speed, and also what sort of profile you will need to maintain close to stock rolling diameter. On an N/A you don't want to go TOO big with wheel size, unless you want excessive weight at the wheels. The weight difference between my stock wheels and 18" alloys was considerable and definitely noticeable when my car was in its N/A form.