N-DAWG

Good idea, you won't regret it!

With P Plate Laws, the cost of N/A Skylines aren't necessarily lower. I've seen a few posts now where people were looking at the option of converting a turbo back to N/A simply cause of the cheaper cost of buying a GTSt in various cases. Maybe this has been an availability thing in some cases, but with the young generation wanting a Skyline and not being able to drive a turbocharged car, it gives potential sellers more reason to up their asking price on a good N/A Skyline. Definitely agree with you on the better to learn on.. I don't regret driving an N/A Skyline for a year before throwing on a turbo. Suspension mods, good tyres and learning to control the car before throwing a heap of power at is definitely a good way to start IMO. Any car is as fuel efficient as the driver makes it Definitely easier to guzzle it in a turbo though if you have a heavy foot or a spirited driver.

I'm using Castrol Edge 10W60 by recommendation of my tuner.. that's for a N/A+t. Been happy with it, just done the same service second time recently. Using NGK iridiums at the moment.

why would you have both?? If you're talking about a pod filter followed by a panel boxed filter.. then there's no point except for induction sound. Having both would just add restriction to your airflow and make performance worse. Unless you're driving through a dust storm every day of the week I fail to see any benefit or reason. It's either one or the other mate.

I'm ready to place an order when you're ready

Tell me about it! Worse it seems if you own a Sedan ~_~ Unless of course if it's a GTV

I can supply conveyor rubber Well my co-workers in sales can

and put on weight.. *sigh* the joys of ageing lol

lol if I was a parent, I would encourage my kids to go for an older model sporty N/A car to learn and practice on, and would in fact encourage them to go along to track days to really learn how to handle a performance car before stepping up to the real deal. Simply restricting until a certain age and then go nuts, is not the way to handle young drivers of performance cars IMO. In high school I had a mate who his dad was about to buy him a modified S15 Silvia.. till they went for a drive and he asked the owner of the car to "give it a hit". His dad almost crapped himself, told him that he doesn't want to be putting flowers on his own son's grave. In stead he bought him a red Droid Kitted Lancer with massive 18" chrome wheels that you literally could not see behind the wheel and super dark black tints. But hey, after driving that for a year he decided that he was over the whole show car thing and wanted to sell it to help his old man out. lol

Sorry I should have clarified that a bit better.. yes the R32 with the RB25.

I loved my N/A R34, and I love my N/A+t R34. Would I go back to an N/A Skyline? no. particularly in an R34 Sedan, the amount of power for the weight and size of the car just doesn't work so well. The cars really designed to have a turbo attached to its 2.5litres. Where N/A's really do well is in big displacement and high torque; or smaller displacement, light weight and higher revs and good CR. The only Skyline that I can REALLY see doing well as an N/A is an R32 simply cause it's far more nimble than say the R34. Really, the Skyline was designed to be a turbocharged vehicle, making use of 2.5Litres in combination with a turbo to make good power. Nissan have pretty much just removed the turbo, added higher compression pistons and done a few things particularly on the R34 to still get a good car. Yes 2.5Litre 6's make for a good daily for people who aren't after big power. I bought my R34 Sedan as I wanted practicality of 4 doors (not that there's THAT much more room inside), plus 4 doors doesn't attract anywhere near as much unwanted attention! That and yes I didn't realise that I would be off restrictions after moving to QLD. In its N/A form it was still a great car to drive, made for a great daily driver, and the main reason I went for a turbo is cause I wanted more power (useable power, not stupidly big outright power that would make my 4 door sedan a bitch to drive as a daily), and lets face it, 2.5Litres of Inline 6 in a heavy chassis means that you're not going to get the same gain per $ keeping it N/A as you would with a turbo, and I can tell you now I wasn't prepared to start stripping my interior and find ways to lighten up my otherwise functional 4 door daily. I personally think this thread's starting to get out of hand and people are getting to emotionally involved in it all! It originally started as a, "I have an N/A Skyline not a turbo skyline and I'm happy with it, is that so bad?" thread to a war between N/A Skylines and every other car on the road. Each to their own.. I've owned and driven a stock standard N/A R34, an N/A R34 with suspension, tyres, brakes upgraded, and now ultimately with a turbo. Doesn't mean that I think everyone else should do the same, but I do personally think that if you're wanting a sports car that delivers big power and you think you can do that with an N/A Skyline without investing some serious $$$ and R&D into it all... you're kidding yourself! If you're happy with the results your N/A Skyline delivers then that's fantastic Just don't have too high expectations and you'll be fine. Well done to those who do get nice responsive power out of an N/A Skyline though.. I've seen the R32 with the RB20DE with ITB's and it's great!! Also you can't compare N/A's in general cause traditionally "big power" N/A's are big displacement engines, and there's nothing economical and fuel efficient about a big displacement V8 when you make use of that power. In response to economy, sure some cars are more economical than others, but economy ultimately is about how you drive! I can get decent mileage out of my N/A+t if I want to... or I can guzzle half a tank of fuel in one night! Air + Fuel + Spark = Power. You're gonna use as much fuel as the air that goes into the engine whether it be forcefed into a small block, or naturally aspirated into a big displacement 8 cylinder. It's just easier to use more fuel if you have a leadfoot and a snail.

pfft I saw a barina this morning sprayed in a golden-ish coloured metallic paint, dark tints, a unit sticker on the rear windshield, and not one but TWO canons under the rear bar... of course they were mounted so that they face out to the sides on an angle from the middle *rolls eyes* slowest thing on the road too! had some sticker on his front windshield as well... I didn't get a good look at it though, it wasn't in my rear view mirror for long. oh and it wasn't the swift style barina either, it was one of the ones after it, the real chick looking rounded models.. and yes a guy was driving it. I know earlier i said a car enthusiast is a car enthusiast, regardless of what car you like and drive... but c'mon...

like when you go to the petrol station, and some old lady working there says "nice car! My grandson wants one of those" lol

Front & Dump pipe and a high flow kitty. Are you still going to run a piggy back ECU? I assume you're intending to rely on the GTSt ECU to manage fuel, but what about ignition timing? or can that all be remapped? Misc. silicon joiners and bends and clamps to suit. Crossover pipe and BOV (plumback BOV would be best) RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Fresh spark plugs while you're at it, NGK Iridiums will do a good job and you can get them regapped to suit the turbo application. I recommend sourcing a factory heatshield for the manifold and turbo if you don't already have it... either that or get some ACL heatshield and cut it up to fit over the manifold/dump and turbo. believe me it makes a BIG difference to the heatsoak!! Heatshield for your oil and water lines and any other lines that run close to the turbo/dump pipe/manifold. Something like DEI Heat Shield that goes around the lines. if you're air filter is pod, I recommended an enclosure to shield it as well. RB25DET turbo inlet piping, unless you can work with the factory airbox and piping? I know it worked out for Dori34 on his R34... I went with an Apexi Pod and factory RB25DET inlet pipe, and used a justjap airbox.

that's the best thing about the N/A+t conversion... the up n go response Mind you there is still turbo lag, just very little and you notice it after about a week of driving lol If by stock parts you're also referring to stock GTT Injectors and pump, then yeah should be fine. I wouldn't like to be running a turbo with stock GT injectors and pump, better safe than sorry. Don't forget running of the stock actuator you will be running 7PSI. On my dyno graph it peaks at 9PSI before tapering off after 5500revs. So my advice would be to ensure it's not going to be starved of fuel, plus it will give you room to improve if you catch the power bug. Dan used mostly stock GTT parts when he converted his R34 with good results, in fact I think the only thing that was different was the eManage Blue, and later a 2.75" zorst. JJR Front/Dumps are only $200, you might as well go with that, and spend a few hundred on a 2nd hand catback system, if you can push the funds a bit further, would be worth it and ensure that you're getting the gasses out of the engine/turbo efficiently, not just to increase power but get that hot air out in a timely manner.

It's your car, not their's... be proud of you N/A Skyline It doesn't matter what you drive, a car enthusiast is a car enthusiast regardless of make or model. I have the same love my skyline before the turbo as i do after it. It was also great fun driving it as an N/A too.. just cause the majority of skylines are turbocharged doesn't make it any less a skyline! I hate that sort of mentality. edit: speelling

Mine didn't... but that's because the Ignition Signal adapter on the eManage must have been blocking it.

QFM K500's working well for me so far. A few good stops in the morning warms them up to nice temperature, and they have very little dust, and so far they've been kind to my rotors since having them machined after the Bendix Ultimates munched them after 2 months.

w00t another 4 Door R34 =P

The reason he recommended a GTR pump is so that you can supply the extra needed juice so it doesn't lean out and go boom. That and a turbo = a lot more air = a lot more fuel potentially required. Fuel Pump (Walbro GSS342, GTR Pump, Bosch), Injectors (R33 GTSt if running an RB25DE, R34 GTT if running an RB25DE NEO), an ECU that can handle ignition timing (eManage pretty much your best option for an auto, if manual then eManage Ultimate or Apexi PowerFC). Important that it be dyno tuned to ensure it's safe. Fuel will obviously be adjusted to match the much higher air flow, and ignition timing will be retarted a lot to prevent things from going boom. Make sure you have adequate exhaust flow to help get that air out of the turbo efficiently (high compression + boost means more boost earlier). A good FMIC Front Mount Intercooler will help keep temperatures where you want them to be also. Something like a JustJap Cooling Pro, or HDI Hybrid. Got more details on which model Skyline you want to do this with? Any existing mods?

lol I'M making so much power? I'm only running 7 PSI dude, 160 at the wheels, not a huge amount really. RB25DE's are stronger than you think. ps. GReddy Profec B Spec II on the way, gonna bump her up to around 8 or 9 for daily, and get high boost tuned for 12 Hopefully will have it in for its 6 monthly when this happens either late this month or early next... will post up the results

Relearn meaning it will adapt to small modifications like breathing mods. They can't be remapped on a dyno, to do this you will either need a standalone ECU (eg. PowerFC) or piggy back to remap the signal (eg: GReddy eManage). To answer your question, no not really worth it at the moment looking at the '$ vs Performance Gain'. To reset your ECU: Step 1: Turn car off Step 2: Remove negative lead from battery Step 3: Put foot on brake for 5-10 seconds (this will drain out any power holding capacity in the electrical system) Step 4: Reconnect negative lead Step 5: Start the car Step 6: Go for a drive and let the ECU adapt to your driving style and auto adjust to the changes in the exhaust system.

R34 N/A with 100hp NOS? or R34 N/A+t with 100hp NOS? Keen to see that! lol @ nxcusnmcfghssdfasegwrg

Still after one? If so I've got one for sale, PM if interested

I've got one but it's for ABS... not sure if you can run them without ABS?