N-DAWG

Spotted a white R34 GTT Coupe on Kessels road on the opposite side, looked to have blue-ish parkers, noticed as I was going past so didn't have the chance to wave

Goran at Brakewest! Good quality, very quick and great to deal with! I took photos of my stock R34 GT brake lines, annotated with measurements, and he made and sent custom lines to suit GTSt calipers the same day and got it overnight!

I'm in for buying these!

PM Sent

I think I know what sort of sound you're talking about... is it more noticeable when turning and breaking? I asked a mechanic about it and they told me that because the discs are floating discs that there's still a little bit of movement and that would cause the creaking sound. I've also installed a UAS Master Cylinder Stopper.

DB1170 for R33GTSt. Not sure on R34, but I don't see why they would be much different as they're both Nissan 4 pot calipers. A brief google shows reference to R34 GTT and DB1170 though.

nope... well minimal change. The squealing and poor braking was related to the discs in the end. I had the discs machined and also changed to QFM K500 pads. The discs had glazed like a mirror in the end and bendix ultimates were like scourer on glass. Machining ended up being the last thing I done as the discs were only a couple of months old. Just wish the mechanic I took it to caught up on that to begin with... won't be going back to that one in a hurry! I still find that i'm double braking though to get best braking performance. Just firms up quite noticeably after the second pump of the brakes, so yeah dunno... no part of my brakes is factory anymore lol I've got an 98 model R34 Booster and BMC for sale if anyone needs to replace theirs, and also an R33 GTSt BMC. All have the same part code on them. Am keen to get rid of them to fund my 6 monthly service and Profec B install/tune soon!

Looks good fish Is this going to be the thread to confirm purchases or will another thread be started?

w00t awesome!!!

Wouldn't it be just as cost effective to replace the turbo? Used turbo's aren't THAT much these days...

What Michael said. I started out with 30mm lowered king springs, already had to replace the shocks before that, Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars. You might as well replace your camber and castor bushings while you're at, if they're already worn then lowering will just make it even worse, though lowering a car will generally result in an increase of negative camber (wheels slant inwards towards the car, less contact with the ground = uneven wear) if the camber is out worse on one side of the car than the other, then wheel alignment issues would be worsened with lowering without correcting this (in my experience). Brakes, R33 GTSt calipers are quite affordable now. I believe you can modify your brakes to suit R33 GTSt Calipers and larger discs without doing the 5 stud conversion (someone confirm?) I doubt you would want to do a 5 stud conversion after geting new wheels anyway. Failing that, depending on the condition of your brakes (discs,pads) a good set of discs and good pads combined with a Dot 4 brake fluid should see you stopping well. I didn't specify types of pads as everyone has their preference when it comes to noise/dust/heat resistance/cold bite. Generally high performance pads are less streetable. After that, this is the part where you ultimately decide which direction your car is going to take in terms of performance. If staying N/A, then a high flow panel filter and a 2.5" catback exhaust system is generally your starting point. You can go with a pod filter, but unless you brace it to the chassis, put a box around it, and then run a cold air feed to get any significant gains, then a panel filter like a K&N is generally the way to go. After catback system comes extractors and hi-flow cat converter. Refer the current group buy for extractors. If you want affordable extractors from Partsco in NZ now is the time! After all that you could get a piggy back ECU like a SAFC to clean up the AFR's but performance gains would be minimal for the dollars spent. To take it even further, you start looking at port n polish the head to improve flow; aftermarket cams and adjustable cam gears, raising compression and then it starts getting $$$$. My advice, plan ahead..well ahead! Modifying costs money either way you look at it, but if you plan it right you can save a lot.

Spotted a white R35 driving past near Sunny Bank maccas

*ANCIENT BUMP* Most of this stuff still for sale, as follows: Turbosmart Boost Single Stage Boost Controller, switch between stock boost and manual adjust boost via switch (not supplied) - *Price Drop* Will be happy with $70PP or Pickup R34 25GT Fuel Pump - $20PP or Pickup? Surely someone out there has use for it? R34 GT Non-Turbo Exhaust manifold - $20 pickup?

*BUMP* Still for sale! Want it gone!

*bumpage* $70PP or pickup, would really like to sell these to fund my next upgrade

hey everything in good time I done everything else besides power mods first, and picked up the car from my tuner after the conversion, exactly a year after I'd originally purchased it in its stock form. You've done the right thing going for suspension, sway bars and wheels/tyres first, the best thing you can do to any car really.

Very nice! Very clean and tidy ride Some subtle sideskirts and rear corner extensions would complete it nicely

www.photobucket.com upload the images there, resize to suit the average screen size, and copy and paste the code, and done

arherm that doesn't look like an N/A lol

hahaha thats gold!

Huge Street Racing Bust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQUbLN1t338

bahaha check out my exhaust pipe!

The Matrix Runs on Windows XP

Volumetric efficiency. Think of it as drinking with a thicker straw vs a thinner straw. Thicker straw takes more effort to get the drink (less low down torque), but once it starts flowing you can get more drink (top end power). With a thinner straw little effort is needed to get the drink flowing (more responsive low down torque) but the flow reaches its peak quickly (limited top end power). The volumetric efficiency refers to time it takes for the volume of the straw to fill with liquid. In real world terms with a car, this higher top end power sacrifices response and low end power which for day to day driving is generally better. To take that analogy to another level, if you were entering a drinking competition and you had to choose a straw, which would you pick? The larger straw as once you fill the straw with liquid, the liquid will flow a greater amount. Likewise, if you're car is going to see the track more often, or higher revs more often, then a larger exhaust pipe diameter would be ideal as the top end power outweighs the need for bottom end power and torque.

it's brilliant aye! Parents better hide the keys when he grows up haha