N-DAWG

Are you talking about the actual canon tip 2.5" or 3" or the whole exhaust system? If the whole exhaust system go with 2.5" for best all round gain. 3" catback will give you more top end, more noise, and less bottom end.

Was that $595+ GST drive-in-drive-out with service? I'm looking at getting my R34 shift kitted and service, and probably upgrade the transmission cooler. I work in Coopers Plains so something a bit more local is definitely ideal.

Not sure if this one's been posted before The Littlest Drifter

So what's the latest news on this?

R33 Series 2 coilpacks will work in an R34, but the holes don't line up the same. Handy though if you need a bandaid fix and a slight bit of modding with a washer to hold it in place. RB25DET NEO and RB25DE NEO use the same coilpacks.

I've got a stock R33 GTSt BOV, PM me if you're still after one

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...erforma-f8.html Is it already installed? I suggest going to a tuner and getting it dyno tuned. Either way this is the Naturally Aspirated forum.

Jack's idea isn't too bad actually.. on the R34 the snorkel feeds air from the opening in the bonnet and is a fairly decent size. Even if there's a bit of heat soak it won't be so bad with the cold air running to the underside of the pod. I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of that setup, mainly to see if it would be feasible to have a heat shield on the pod, one of the metal types that covers the top side of the pod and leaves the underside open. Not sure how good that would look though but at least it would minimise the heat being taken in and encourage suction from the cooler side of the pod. Another set up that I've seen utilise the factory snorkel in combination with the pod filter is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...od+filter+setup

On an N/A the power gains are had through relieving restrictions. Getting cooler air into the engine efficiently, and exhaust gasses back out just as efficiently, finding the best compromise between top end power, and low end response. As such it takes a lot of modifications to get any decent power, but in the end every bit counts, just don't expect a huge gain just from a high flowing filter and cold air feed unless you combine it with other breathing mods, or unless of course if your current air filter is badly clogged and soaking up plenty of hot air that changing a filter alone will make a difference. In a lot of cases a factory air box with high flow panel will be more beneficial than an unshielded pod. What I've known some people do as well is run a cold air feed into the factory air box. Basically you get the benefits of a high flow filter, cold air, and OEM box designed to keep hot air out, and it's going to be well sealed in comparison to aftermarket/custom heat shields. As for the intake pipe, if you experience high engine bay temps, then yeah a cold air feed to the filter will definitely help. Cooler air = higher density = more air in the engine = more power. It may not be a HUGE amount more power, but if you compare that to say an unshielded pod, when the engine bay heats up and the pod filter sucks in hot air and has less power, the filter shielded from hot air that is also taking in cooler air from outside will be making more power in comparison and for longer. I'm not sure how well the Supra factory airbox/snorkel flows, but if it's anything compared to say an R34, then a factory airbox and high flow panel is certainly a better way to go, unless you like to spend the time/dollars on a good CAI setup just to have a nice induction sound...

Cold Air Intake. Basically the factory air box with panel filter is removed and replaced with a pod filter. An enclosure is made for the pod filter to shield it from heat and reduce heatsoak. To get the most out of it a cold air feed usually from the front bar runs up into the air box. The result is a high flowing air filter that gets fresh cold air which assists in making more power. There are short ram air filters where the pod filter itself is positioned low behind the front bar and cold air is rammed into the pod, but the issue with this is the potential to suck up water during wet weather.

This is the Naturally Aspirated part of the Skylines Australia Forum, that being non-turbo skylines. The airbox for a N/A is different to that of a Turbocharged Skyline. http://pds.exblog.jp/pds/1/200901/22/86/b0147786_2154144.jpg http://www.exblog.jp/blog_logo.asp?slt=1&a...86_22444747.jpg Your best bet would be one of these: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=272&page=2 This will fit with your factory intercooler piping, and the box won't foul FMIC piping if you have a FMIC that has piping that runs over the radiator. Sourcing a factory airbox and snorkel, and a hi flow panel filter such as a K&N, would easily equate to the same cost if not more.

intercooler? turbo? air box for an N/A is different mate, you'll be best to post in the 'Wanted To Buy' section.

A few shots from the charity cruise on the weekend

Sounds tough! Yeah wonder why aye? lol Did anyone take any footage and photos on the day?

Thanks guys, yeah it sure did Is it just me or is that video link not working? I'm getting this error: An error occured during video conversion, please try again later or upload another video Is it a video from skid pan? If so lookin forward to seeing it! Any photography on the day?

I plan to come along to the next one, meet some more SAU people I'm in Mt Gravatt so I've got no excuse really

correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that not all companies provide warranty on coil packs?

A few that I took tonight of my R34 25GT

I decided to get a handwash and polish done today at the Carwash Cafe place in Mt Gravatt. Just wanted to get it looking nice for the charity cruise tomorrow. So here I go whoring this thread again Same location, same method. (ps. I really need to get out and take photos before it's completely dark lol)

I have half a set of OEM ~110,000km Coilpacks... 3 of them died in one night like dominoes mainly cause of the GReddy eDamage before I done the zener diode fix lol I just keep them as spares now. The Splitfires are much stronger and are the most recommended coilpack for Skylines. R34's are known for coilpack failure once they reach a certain age, and are known to keep dying one by one after that. So do yourself a favour, do it once do it right, go the splitfires If you really get stuck, R33 Series 2 coilpacks will work but the bolt holes don't line up, but if you can easily get hold of one they can be "made to fit" for a temporary fix till you can get hold of new ones... just ask my tuner Drove around like that for a while after the first coilpack fried, then thought meh I'll wait it out, and then lost the 3 in one night, car struggled to get onto the tilt-tray! Probably a god thing that I fixed the eDamage before getting splitfires though

Splitfire, Superspark or JustJap JJR. I would highly recommend the Splitfires. I haven't had experience with Superspark or JJR coilpacks, however, my tuner advised against them and to put my dollars into splitfires. Worth noting also that my tuner wasn't selling me the coilpacks either. Check out the sponsors for pricing. The Japanese Yen isn't in our favour like it once was so expect to pay over $600 for a set. I think I recall seeing a new coilpack on the market too, it's a yellow colour... once again I have no idea about these ones either.

I've read a thread or two where people have converted the engine to non-turbo with the DE manifold n all, though A/F's needed bit of cleaning up. Apparently runs quite well considering compression and all, but I wouldn't be holding my breath. After all that you'd have to get engineer certs etc.. to be able to register the car as a non-turbo. Main reason some end up going down that path is because they've found turbo skylines more affordable to purchase than N/A Skylines. Anyways your options really are the following: a) Buy an N/A Skyline now, sell it and buy a turbo Skyline when you're on your open licence. b) Buy an N/A Skyline now, modify suspension, brakes, handling, Wheels n Tyres, then when you're open licence do a bolt-on turbo conversion c) Buy an N/A Skyline now, modify suspension, brakes, handling, Wheels n Tyres, then when you're open licence do a RB25DET NEO Swap d) Buy another N/A Car that has more power than a Skyline (at 2.5litres there's not a huge amount of power on offer with a Skyline in comparison to a lot of other N/A cars out there that would prove cheaper to keep on the road) and when on your open licence, use that saved money to buy a GTT, or maybe even a GTR by then depending on how much you can save and how affordable they are in a few years time.

R34 25GT Sedan, 25GT Coupe and 25GTT are all different for brakes. For example, my R34 25GT Sedan had 280mm Front Discs with 2 pot calipers and 265mm Rear Discs with 1 pot calipers. Brake lines also different. Good news though was that I was able to modify them to fit GTSt calipers, custom lines and the larger discs without changing the hubs. I believe R34 GTV has LSD? Injectors are high capacity on turbo models. Also R34 has top feed R33 has side feed. To the OP, My advice also is to get a turbo model to begin with, unless the high compression low boost setup appeals to you. If you're chasing large amounts of reliable power then a GTT is probably the best way to begin. N/A+t conversions are great for those who want to run the high compression low boost, or for those who have an N/A skyline that have done wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes, and a number of other things that would warrant more loss than gain when selling. If you want a 4 Door R34 then it's definitely worth shopping around for a GTV. The fact that you get turbo model brakes and suspension makes life a hell of a lot easier when it comes to getting replacement parts (take it from me, it's partially the reason for my brake upgrade), having bigger turbo model brakes = win! It's virtually a GTT but with an N/A motor and would make a great starting base if you plan to N/A+t or engine transplant later as the turbocharged engine is pretty much all what holds it back from being a GTT. I wish I'd tried to get one to begin with.

Covered in an out many times through various threads. Refer the how to turbo N/A thread, and my sticky with power results which I also encourage people to post up the costs to be able to compare. As a forum we've already accumulated quite a lot of resource for the N/A+turbo conversions. The biggest difference as far as engine goes is the compression and type of pistons. R34's also have a variable length manifold. Exhaust size, injector sizes, fuel pump are also different. Brakes and suspension also differ on N/A unless you get a GT-V which has Turbo Model brakes and suspension as far as R34 goes. R33 obviously 4 stud vs 5 stud. If you want to sticky a be all and end all resource for N/A vs Turbo for all these things, I would suggest a table with a collumn for each specific model (eg. R34 25GT, R34 25GT Sedan, R34 GTX, R34 GTV, R33 GTS, R33 GTS4, and there are quite a number of variances between models), then down the left you would have all your criteria. Most of this information as far as brakes, wheel sizes etc.. can be found from Nissan resources, things like injector capacity and type would be useful for future resource. Most conversions if not transplanting the engine, are a case-by-case scenario anyways. I'm yet to see two RB25DE+t conversions that are exactly the same. Even on the R34 with the NEO engine, DORI34 had a blanking bolt for oil feed whereas DE NEO's typically don't.

looks good dan! Almost looks like its meant to be there. I use my cig lighter though for my GPS though that's an easy work around.