N-DAWG

Spotted a silver R33 Coupe and Black R34 Sedan at Coles Mt Gravatt tonight

I'm keen for info on pricing if you do I'm trying to sell my unused Justjap Autogauge bundle.. want to get something like swoosh gauges

AWESOME!! How'd you go with the FMIC piping? I honestly forgot to take the photos of mine behind the front bar to send you :S

Autobarn sell them

Unless you put stupidly big wheels, shopping trolley wings and ralliart stickers on it... like I've seen on some Magnas lol

hmmm interesting reading this as since having my turbo conversion done i've been noticing a flat spot in the mid range. Sometimes I'll be around 2-3k revs in 2nd or 3rd (tiptronic auto) and WOT just sort of struggles? It's like it wants to up n go but can't until it gets to around 4-5k. I thought maybe it's just the characteristics of this set up, or just the auto transmission isn't getting the power down well enough in the mid-range. Now I just thought this valve was controlled electronically based on revs, didn't realise it was controlled by vacuum lines. Since reading this thread I've decided to check the online R34 workshop manual http://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-S...-Manual-English to see how the vacuum lines run. On page 15 of the navigation on that link, I followed the vacuum lines from the canister to where it meets the first hard line, and also done the same for the airbox vacuum line, and then compared it to how it is on my car. The result is that they're switched around at the first pair of hard lines. Basically what appears to be the hard line that leads to the variable intake solenoid is getting a vacuum signal from where the airbox used to be. The line isn't plugged though just tucked away. Now it seems to me that this seems to be the reason I'm having a midrange flat spot. Could be the same case for the OP? Would there any reason why my vacuum lines are being run this way or is it more than likely human error in reconnecting them? More to the point, given that it's been tuned the way it is, would reconnecting the vacuum lines to match what is in the workshop manual cause me any issues with the tune?

GTV is more or less a GTT but with an N/A Motor. GT-4 would be an all wheel drive N/A R34. I'm not sure of the equipment level on the GT4, but the GTV has things like larger brakes, GTT Suspension, LSD, larger wheels, just to name a few.

Well an AFM is something that should already be there...

Yes you do. The AFM (air flow meter) measures how much air flows into the intake, sends that to the ECU which then adds fuel accordingly. Without it the car won't function correctly. Unbolt the air box, bolt on a pod filter adapter to the AFM (unless you're using an Apexi pod designed to connect to the factory AFM), and then slide on the pod and tighten the strapping. As you're in Melbourne, I believe the law says that it must be secured and enclosed. So the next step will be to use a bracket to secure the pod to a factory bolt (universal aftermarket item will do, or piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it), and then either fabricate a air box or buy an off-the-shelf one. A pod without shielding it from engine bay heat, particularly in an N/A will show neglible gain in performance, if anything lower performance. After all that, running a cold air feed into the box will help get the most benefit out of a pod filter. In short, unless you want the induction sound and looks of a pod, keep the stock air box and run a high flow panel filter.

haha so true! I just clear the kerb at my parking at work, and have enough clearance for the ones in the shopping car parks. It's another reason why I'm not in a hurry to fit an aftermarket front bar, I like having lowered suspension that doesn't compromise daily driving Car looks mint Adam, doesn't scream out look at me and get "unwanted" attention, but has a nice clean sleeperish stealth look about it and maintains the nice factory lines Would look good cosmetically if it was dropped a bit, but function over form as I always say

Item: Bendix Ultimate Front Brake Pads to suit R33 GTSt 4 Pot Calipers. Will probably suit other Nissan 4 Pot Calipers as well. Condition: Near New, used only for 2-3 months for daily driving, no track work. Reason for sale: Just had discs machined and changing to a softer and less dusty brake pad. Price: $80? Purchased them for $109 from Just Jap. Location: Brisbane. Pick up from Mt Gravatt or Coopers Plains area, or can post at buyers expense.

He stated facts. Gave real examples of what would be needed to possibly achieve that power figure without turbocharging. Now you mentioned that you fall under P Plate restrictions, and your user name has underneath it Melbourne Victoria. http://www.arrivealive.vic.gov.au/initiati...pply_if_yo.html From this date a probationary licence holder cannot drive a vehicle if it has: An engine of eight or more cylinders; a turbocharged or supercharged engine (except diesel powered vehicles); an engine that has been modified to increase its performance; and/or any of the following high performance six cylinder vehicles as published in the Government Gazette: To get 225KW out of a N/A RB25, some SERIOUS engine modifications will need to occur! It's not simply a case of no turbocharged cars and thats all. Take for example the 350Z. Decide whether you want to keep this Skyline and modify it in the longterm (whether it be turbo modification or whatever), and then decide whether to drive it till you're off your P's and can drive a turbocharged Skyline. If you're happy to keep it N/A for now and want to make more use of power, then as said, improve your driving skills, get out on the track, do suspension and handling modifications and learn to control the car and get the most out of it in its N/A form. Driving skill is something that takes years to develop, and even then practice makes perfect. 225kw's in a rear wheel drive is a lot of power compared to the 90-100rwkw that an N/A Skyline puts down at the wheels in its stock form, and without the supporting mods to control that power as well as the driver skill, things can turn ugly quickly. Just a few supporting mods to control this sort of power: Tyres that can reliably put down 225kws, the right suspension set up, and brakes to stop that sort of power. Three important things that really you can do now, in preparation for more power when you're off your P's. No point having all that power if you can't get it to the ground, and stop the car just as quickly as it goes. Now before you call me a keyboard warrior and flaming, I'm 23, I'm on my P's till the end of this year, fortunately I don't fall under the restrictions...however... I spent a year modifying my R34 starting with suspension, wheels/tyres, and brakes, BEFORE I started modifying it to get more power. Guess what? I don't regret it one bit! It has made me a better driver now, I feel more confident and more in control of the power I now have. We all have to crawl before we can walk. The fact for you though is that you're on your P's, and therefore the law is going to look at you differently, even if you are a sensible mature driver. It's a sad but true fact. Now to answer your original question, the smart way to make 225kw out of an RB25DE is to turbocharge it. If all you're after is a big power figure out of an N/A car whilst falling within your restrictions, then sorry to say this, but a N/A Skyline isn't going to be the car of choice. Like madbung said, more cubes or forced induction, and there are plenty of other 6 cylinder cars with more than 2.5litres.

Adam: Yeah my bank balance is still playing catch up amongst other expenses But my next plans are for a stage 2 shift kit with trans cooler, then the Gizzmo is looking like my choice of EBC. So far I've read nothing but good things about the Gizzmo and the price of them is great too. I doubt I'll fit a new turbo into my budget in the near future, nor the injectors and other supporting mods to make the most of it. Everything one step at a time hey. What was unreliable at 240.4? What did you do to achieve that? Cara: he's running an RB25DE with stock internals. Goes to show how strong the N/A RB's really are. With an N/A+t rather than using low compression and high boost to make power, low boost is used with the high compression to make power. Less boost is needed to achieve the equivalent power levels on a low CR DET motor. As a result the turbo starts spooling a lot earlier resulting in little to no lag, obviously variable upon what sort of turbo and boost is used amongst other things. The pistons in an RB25DE are different to those of an RB25DET, and not just the CR Ratio. Someone else touched on this in another thread some time back, but it was to do with the material that the pistons were made of. Lowering the compression through the gasket will allow you to run more boost yes, but you'll more or less be creating a DET in terms of engine response and the way the car drives, but still having DE internals. Not to mention cost of a new gasket and labour, the fact that you're still running the same internals makes it hardly worth it really, and it more or less defeats the purpose of an N/A+t. A couple of tuners I spoke to advised against the gasket method to lower compression. In all, running a 10:1 CR with moderate boost is a cost effective way to get more power out of an N/A engine without swapping the engine, ideal for those who have already gone so far with the rest of the car. It's also great fun too as boost comes on nice and early, which in turn makes for a good responsive daily driver. How far you push the boost dial is personal preference really. If you're prepared to rebuild in the near future, go nuts! If not then 7-10 PSI seems optimal for a longer life. You mentioned that you're considering doing a bolt on conversion? You've already got the 3" exhaust, GTT Injectors, PowerFC, pretty sure you mentioned a Walbro pump in a thread somewhere, so really you're half way there. All you really need is to change the manifold, bolt on a turbo, throw on a FMIC, front and dump pipe, other misc bits like piping and BOV... and get it tuned! Selling old extractors wouldn't be too hard, there's already a number of people lining up to buy a set. Mentioned before in previous threads, but worth noting again, Tiger White runs a RB25DE+t set up in his Silvia, and that car is used for drifting at competition level.

hey, not all of us run 15 psi through a RB25DE

From the way I understand it, you want to get the gas out of the engine quickly. Too small a turbo and it will become a restriction to flow. Just like say an old factory cat converter in a high powered car, except that after the manifold, the turbo is the first place hot air ends up after it leaves the engine. I would imagine that the front/dump pipe should be a size that allows the air to flow and scavenge optimally. Too big and you reduce the efficiency of the exhaust system. Would I be right in my thinking by saying that changing to a larger front/dump pipe but not touching the turbo would be like fitting a larger catback system, but not changing a restrictive cat? If a front and dump is able to flow enough for the given amount of power (lets say 3" for the average N/A+t), but the turbo isn't able to pass through the exhaust gasses quickly, then the restriction isn't the front/dump and changing to a larger front/dump isn't going to make much of a difference. The goal would be to get the exhaust gasses out of the engine and out of the turbo quickly, therefore making power and more of it, efficiently, and lowering the time that hot air stays in the engine and turbo, therefore reducing chances of detonation. Please correct me if I'm wrong

When you say spool like stock..? I've never had the joy of driving a factory turbo.. So you wouldn't recommend running more than 7PSI for a factory R33 GTSt Turbo? I'm still running 7 PSI of the actuator, eventually planning to get a EBC, possibly a Gizzmo as they seem to be very reliable and excellent value for money. So perhaps it's best to have a larger turbo before running more than 7 to keep some sort of reliability?

Changing your cat converter with a high flow cat will relieve the last restriction in your exhaust system. Seeing as you've already done wheels and tyres, I would look at a good suspension set up. What sort of wheels are they? What's the weight on them? Have you made a Cold Air Induction Box for the pod? (CAI Box). As your air intake filter is no longer in a box with a feed running to the front of the bonnet, it's no longer shielded from the engine bay heat and will reduce performance more than anything due to heat soak in the engine bay. A box will shield it from this heat, and a cold air feed into the box will ensure it gets cold air. Colder air = more power. A manual means that you're not limited to a piggy back type ECU, so you can go for options like a PowerFC. They cost more again, but it's a replacement ECU, no wires to splice in saves $ in labour. If you're going for big engine mods then a good engine management system will help ensure that you get the most out of it all, and when going for N/A power every bit counts. How much of that 10k are you prepared to spend on modifying the engine? Set aside 1000-2000 for engine management and tuning depending on what you use. My R34 was once naturally aspirated. I spent about half a year modifying everything besides the engine till I decided which way to go... keeping it N/A or forced induction. In the end I went forced induction. Still costs a lot but the dollar per gain made it an attractive option. That and the fact that I have all the ground work laid out for future modification (eg: rebuild, aftermarket turbo etc..) In some ways I wouldn't have mind keeping it N/A and going for big power that way. N/A power is a different type of power, but turbocharging is easy power really.

Nice! Good to have friends like that! So I would imagine you went with DKNE extractors? Did you get them HPC coated or heat wrapped? I would spend that money elsewhere to be honest. If you've done extractors, catback and pod, the next mods are very costly. Did you change the cat converter? If it were me, $1500 would go straight to 30mm lowered springs and adjustable sway bars OR towards wheels and a good set of tyres. If doing suspension you might as well sort out camber and castor bushings as well with some Whiteline adjustables. Get a professional wheel alignment done and all the bushings adjusted and the car will handle much better. You'll barely pay for an eManage Ultimate installed and tuned for $1500, and to get best gains you'll want optional harnesses to adjust ignition timing. The gain that you would get with an EMU for the dollars spent = not worth it in my opinion. Use suspension and tyres to assist with getting power to the ground and improve times. If you're serious about going further with modding out the engine, then it's time to do some research and a lot of reading in the 'How To Get More Power From A Naturally Aspirated (na) Engine' thread. It will cost more than $1500 to get more out of the engine, but there's a number of options including 3litre bottom end conversions if you want significant power gains. What you decide to do with the engine internally will ultimately help you decide which engine management to go with. It may be worth talking to a tuner who's done work with N/A Skylines and see what they advise for engine management as well. Every tuner has their preference though when it comes to ECU's and a piggy back air fuel controller may not be the greatest option depending on what you want to do. btw... is your R34 Auto or Manual? That will also determine what ECU/Engine Management you'll be able to use.

Lots of cash for optimal results

The R34 N/A ECU is capable of relearning minor changes through breathing mods like exhaust and filters. The gains in power with a SAFC are going to be fairly minimal, and the cost of an eManage Ultimate + install + tuning could be spent on other mods. If you're prepared to make bigger changes to the engine internally (eg: bigger cams, larger injectors, nitrous, port and polish) then that's where you WILL need aftermarket engine management and where you will get the most gains out of something like an eManage Ultimate. You managed to get extractors, exhaust and pod ordered and fitted within a couple of days? After having all that done, disconnect the ground cable on the battery, put your foot ont he brake for 10-15 seconds, wait a bit and reconnect. Start the car up, then let it relearn your driving style and adjust to the changes.

This thread here covered it in a bit more detail. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne....html&st=20

AFAIK nistune isn't going to work on a N/A R34. If so Dori34 would have been using it for his turbo conversion. Correct in the suspension side of things. Also the type of tyres will need to be taken into consideration if you're intending on straightline drag racing performance. Now you've given a budget which is a good start, but we need to know what the car will be used for, what your aim is. Are you after more power for the street Intending on dragging Track days

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...lin-t69998.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N-...-N-t249186.html

HAHA Dori..that smiley next to those 3 letters just made me laugh lol There's three ways you can go with extractors: 1) DKNE Extractors 2) Coby Extractors 3) Custom A group buy looks to be in the works at the moment with extractors, so your timing looks to be good What you spend on extractors will depend on a number of things, including whether you get them HPC coated or heatwrapped. Also DKNE are an aussie extractor, the Coby's come from NZ so there's freight to factor in there, but group buys generally help bring that cost down. Custom extractors obviously costs a lot more (generally)

Extractors, Catback Exhaust, High Flow Cat, High Flow Panel Filter. Then spend the remainder on tyres, sway bars and springs. I know the second part isn't directly related to getting power out of the engine, but it will help in making use of the power. I done my suspension, tyres and brakes first before touching the engine. A good tyres will help with accellaration, traction, braking and handling. Springs and sway bars will help lower the cars centre of gravity, reduce body roll and allow you to take corners and curves in less time. If you're purely after outright power without a turbo then it's going to cost a lot to get any big gains. Don't get me wrong, it is possible, and I respect those who go down the path of modding an N/A Skyline. To really get big power though, you're going to have to do a lot to the engine internally, and really a RB30/26 build with high compression is the best way to get big power out of an N/A Skyline engine. The R34 25GT Sedan has its fair share of weight as well which doesn't help. I suggest reading here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...-E-t138169.html In these threads you will find the majority of your answers