N-DAWG

I'm looking forward to seeing this! Only 2 weeks now =P Still a bit intrigued that your NEO had the blanking bolt as opposed to a blank spot where a oil feed would go. I thought it was the non-NEO DE's that had the blanking bolt.

ECU. You've got a higher capacity engine, larger injectors, the NEO has a few extra things like a variable valve in the intake plenum. Assuming you're replacing with an RB25DE NEO not RB25DET NEO?

Spotted NEO 32 on Kessels Road tonight

This might be a noobish question, but will this work if using a piggy back system such as the eManage Blue? I would imagine that the data coming from the ECU would be data before being remapped by the eManage and therefore probably wouldn't show correct data on the ecu talk... or am I mistaken? Looks like something I might add to my future mod list if it will be compatible.

So long as you're prepared to cut the dash trim.

Oh so not a GTSt Stock Exhaust then... more than likely a 3" Mandrel Bend catback system. So unless you like revving it right out each gear, don't expect more performance in the bottom end, rather a loss of performance and an increase in top end. Too large an exhaust on an N/A will have a tendency to be quite loud as well.

Nicely done with the gauges at the bottom. I've seen cigarette lighters cut out to accomodate a single 52mm boost gauge before. I want to try keep from mounting gauges on the dash, though it makes it easier to see while driving. I like the paint you used on the dash plastics.

Volumetric Efficiency. A 3" Catback will make more top-end power. A 2.5" catback will be the best balance between the low end and top end, and provide good driveability on the street. Think of a straw. If the straws too small it won't take much to get the drink through the straw, but you'll be limiting the flow. Too big a straw and it takes more effort to fill the straw and get the drink through. In the end it's going to come down to whether you want outright top end power, or more useable power. I'm not sure what diameter the R33 GTSt exhaust is from factory, but remember that it's not going to be a high flow mandrel bend system with a straight through muffler. So you may well get a good balance of low-end and top-end with a GTSt exhaust. I myself really don't know though.

EUG used an R33 GTR Catback on his R33 GTS. Budget upgrade. More power and flow whilst being quiet and stealth.

I've heard that the stock oil pressure isn't the most accurate. I'm yet to fit my gauges (going to do it with my next service) and I'll be having oil press/water temp/ oil temp fitted. You need the adapters to suit. Check out Just Jap. The gauges will come with a sender unit, so basically it's a matter of wiring up the power (12v+ and ground), and the wires from the sender units. You'll have water hose adapter which the temp senser goes on. Then you've got sandwhich plate adapters for oil pressure and oil temp which the sender things will also attach to.

A/F gauge is going to be more of a filler gauge than anything else Oil Temp, Water Temp, Oil Pressure are the first 3 gauges you should get. Obviously boost gauge is for a turbo. You can get a vacuum pressure gauge, but once again you're better off saving money that you would spend on A/F and vacuum gauges and getting decent oil/water/pressure gauges. Your ECU from factory is going to handle your A/F Ratios well, if anything it will have a tendancy to run richer rather than lean. If you have a demanding sound system that requires a good stable voltage, then a voltmeter would be handle to ensure it doesn't dip too low and damage any sound equipment under load. Save your money though, just get the oil temp / water temp / oil pressure and use the rest of the money for other mods.

your sig says pod filter in custom air box... I thought in NSW you can have a POD but it must be both secured and also boxed?

Hey bud, after current pricing on front slotted; and for both plain and slotted for rear rotors. To suit R33 GTS-t. Delivery to 4108. Cheers

uhuh definitely sounds like a rexy! and shakes a lot too

I went with Brake West. I worked out lengths for my R34 25GT Sedan and they custom made ADR approved lines to suit R33 GTSt Calipers and had them sent out the same day. Very quick and cost effective

I'd go a Bosch 040 or Walbro GSS342. I went with the Walbro for the price.

Saw a Silver R34 4 Door at the airport, I think the plates were 14ENV

Car revs out better, less flat spots. Gives more performance in the low and mid-range. Sound is changed as well. As there is no forced induction, you can't push more air into the engine. Relieving the restrictions in the intake/exhaust system is the key to making power. Larger mandrel bend extractors and HP Coating helps to scavenge the exhaust gasses out of the engine quicker. Combined with a hi-flow cat and mandrel bend catback system means that the exhaust gasses leave the engine quickly which in turn means more air can get back into the engine quickly. Air + Fuel + spark = Power. Fast air flowing through an N/A engine means more power is made. Jap engines typically make power through revs, so being able to get through the rev range quickly means that real-world performance is improved. Fuel efficiency ultimately depends on how a car is driven. eg: I can use half a tank in a week, or in a night. It depends on how much right foot is applied.

As per my tuner's recommendation, Castrol Edge 10W60, and that's with a turbocharger bolted on. I think as Dan said 10W40 will do the a good job on a N/A

They dont' come in a different width? I've got 18x8's on mine, pretty sure the offset is +38? I really can't remember but it fits pretty much the same as before. I made sure before buying them that the offset and tyre combination would be correct. Not just so that it clears the brakes, and doesn't sit in or out too much, but also so that you don't get defected. Also remember that your R34 25GT Sedan has 16 inch wheels. You'll need a much lower profile tyre as well on a set of 19s to keep your rolling diamater as close to stock and therefore having an accurate speedo. Bigger wheels do fill the the guards nicely on R34's, but to be honest I wouldn't want to add too much unnecessary weight on an N/A. Going from the stock wheels to the 18x8 alloys made a very noticeable difference! 19x8.5s in a non-lightweight wheel would be way too heavy on an N/A Skyline in my opinion. Lightweight jap wheels do cost a lot more, though sometimes you can get a second hand set for decent value when compared to the heavy weight show wheels on the market, and if I didn't get my wheels for the price that I did, I'd have invested in a used set of lightweight Japanese wheels. If you just want some nice wheels to style your ride and not worried about the effect it will have on performance, then I guess that won't be an issue. Also you mentioned you didn't want to spend a heap? I saw those RS-GT rims at a local wheel and tyre place, and a wheel and tyre package at that size would have been around the 3k mark at least! Bigger wheels are more expensive. More common sizes are "generally" going to be more affordable. large diameter tyres cost $$$ Anyways, these questions are best answered over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Su...g-tyre-f59.html You'll get all the answers you need and once you know what width/offset combinations work it should make things a lot easier for you with buying a new net of wheels

What makes you think it's 9.48:1? Just wondering how you worked it out or where you read it. I done a search on nissan.co.jp using search query: rb25de neo Clicked on the 9th search result: http://www.get-u.com/CATALOG/STAGEA/WC34/0...SPEC/engin.html Translate to English: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?d...TrUrl=Translate RB25DE NEO is 10:1 RB25DET NEO is 9:1 RB20DE NEO is 9.5:1 That's coming straight from Nissan.

Like the colour in some of the panels here? http://www.option1garage.com.au/Exhausts.htm I know the link says exhausts, but it's all body panels. They've got that burgundy/redish colour in front R33 quarter panels, side skirts and even rear boot and spoiler.

What colour is the car? When I got quotes on spray painting, I asked if going for a gloss paint would be much cheaper as I was thinking of going gloss black if I did respray. I was told it won't make a lot of difference. If you want to just do the outside, you're best to go with same colour as the car if you want it to blend in reasonably well without painting the door jams etc.. If you fit aftermarket panels don't forget to add in fitting costs as well. A lot of ordinary panel beaters don't like doing work with body kits and the like cause of the fitting.. some are good some aren't. You might be lucky to find the front quarter panels through some import wreckers. There's a few up here that have them, not sure how much post would be, but if you can find the same colour might work out allright. Even some minor body damage can cost a lot to repair, it's quite suprising how much some times. Depending on how the rest of the body is though, for example fading and scratches, if you plan to keep the car in the long-term then even respraying the outside the same colour will have it looking nice and fresh again. Interior bits like the leather boot on the shifter and handbrake can easily be replaced with aftermarket ones online, and aftermarket shift knobs for manuals are everywhere really. The plastic trims you can always sand the paint of them and respray (check the DIY section for a good guide on doing this). Besides that though, like I said, get someone that knows what they're looking at to check it over. Check things like the suspension, bushings, brakes, rotor and pad wear or warped discs, get it out on the free way to see if there's any freeplay in the steering (you mentioned the steering felt a bit loose). If you're serious about getting it, find a mechanic who knows skyline's to do an inspection as they'll know exactly what to look for. There's performance workshops up here that do pre-purchase inpsections. I'm not sure of the one's in the Illawarra though as I didn't have my Skyline till I moved up here, but I'm pretty sure there'd be one or more in Wollongong though that would be able to help you out. Edit: Not sure if Bezerkly offer this service?

Not sure of the stock size, but 2.5" is the way to go on an N/A Skyline if you want a balance between response and top end power. Any bigger and it becomes louder and you make less power down low.

Thanks mate, managed to source one before the reply though. Cheers Nathan