N-DAWG

I've got a couple of Brake Master Cylinders, ABS though. One was from an R33 GTSt Part Number BM44 (came with my R33 GTSt brake upgrade), one came off my 98 R34 25GT Sedan also has part number BM44. I've now bought a replacement R33 GTSt brake booster which happened to come with a BM44 Cylinder attached, so I have 2 MC's that I want to sell. PM if interested.

true! Sometimes it's nice just having a daily driver that you can just...drive! I've had mine off the road the last week till I get brakes sorted out and calipers rebuilt.. just another problem.. once you start messing around with cars there's no end! either something else needs changing or you want more power lol $2600 that's ridiculous! I done an online quote for my insurance if I moved back to 2500 and it came through at $2,259! I think I'll stay in Brisbane! It's crazy spending that much on insurance every year, sometimes it nearly costs the same as the car after so many years, not to mention the excess! and I'm 23, though my insurance was still a LOT cheaper when I bought this car at 21. The premium and excess comes down once you get into the 22-24 bracket with Just Car, at least for me anyways, my premium dropped around $300 odd dollars afer being with them for a year as well. My advice though if you just want an N/A Skyline for a nice daily car, get an R34. They're quite cheap now (at least when I bought mine they were $14k and under, P Plate Laws and the Yen may have changed the value though).. only thing is that I've found they're more common in TipTronic Auto's than in Manual. That said though Tiptronic can be a lot of fun too and with a stage 2 shift kit (which is on my list of future mods) they get through the gears quite quickly =] At least with an R34 you're going to have a newer car. R34's are heavy though but at least you get the NEO engine. Think of it this way, if that R33 has 180,000kms, yeah the engine might be rebuilt, but the suspension, brakes, driveline, transmission etc.. are all 180,000kms old. Allow 5k for a decent full respray, allows 2-3 grand to replace suspension bushings, springs, shocks etc.., then depending on the condition of the brakes whether the calipers need rebuilding, how much meat is left on the rotors and pads, are the brake lines in good condition... tyres have much left on them? What's the condition of the transmission and clutch? How many panels need replacing / panel beating, how costly are the body repairs themselves going to be before even spraying. I would get someone who knows what they're looking for in a used car, get 3 quotes for each work that needs to be done, way up the costs, time and effort. In the end even if you break even with buying a good condition Skyline to begin with, having a car that you can say you've restored and got it to near new condition again is always a good thing.. and if you restore it all it doesn't matter the age of the car as everything is new or in good condition. What matters though is what it's going to be worth in the eyes of a buyer if you plan to sell later on. If you already don't like the idea of spending a lot of time on restoring a car or building a project car, then scrap that idea lol Oh also another thing to consider, and I really don't know the answer to this either, but you want to make sure that your insurer is going to insure it for the value that you want! Nothing worse than spending x amount of dollars on modifying a car and then the insurer having other ideas ~_~ ps. beautiful place Kiama!

Depends where you're insuring it. My insurance for my car after modifying it is still under 1500k a year. When I compared my insurance now to where I used to live in NSW there's nearly a grand difference! Up here there's only a few hundred bucks difference really between a GT and GTT, at least when I done the online quote. Anyways as was said before, if you know people who can do a good job without costing too much sometimes it works out allright cause you're buying a car next to nothing, and replacing pretty much everything else. You said the motors been rebuilt so at least you know engine wise it's going to have a longer life. The most expensive part of restoring a car generally comes down to labour cost more than anything else. Multiply a mechanics hourly rate by how long it takes to do all the work and things add up very quickly. On another note, how much would a rebuilt R33 GTS4 motor alone be worth? and exactly how bad is this car? You might be able to get another GTS4 whether an R32 or R33 that might be in good physical condition but a high mileage engine, use parts from both, sell the remaining bits... just thinking out loud at the moment though, but the fact that it's got a rebuilt engine would make it ideal to strip down for parts for a project car if that's what you're keen to do. I've never really explored those options fully though so I don't know what will and wouldn't work, or have a complete idea on costs.. but for what I spent on my R34 to get it to where it is now (and this isn't even the end yet), there's time's I wish I bought a cheaper R32 or R33 and restored that.

Google is your friend. http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/mod...car/?car=184327 This page should have all the specs you need to know Scroll down to the bottom part of this page also has specs: http://www.northshoreprestige.com.au/vehic...l=r3425gt#specs RB25DE is 10:1 RB25DET is 9:1 RB26DETT is 8.5:1

10:1

Bigger discs and calipers. Before Brakes: 280mm front discs with 2 pot calipers. 265mm rear discs with 1 pot calipers. R34 25GT Sedan items. After Brakes: 296?mm front discs with 4 pot calipers. 297mm? rear discs with 2 pot calipers. R33 GTSt items. R33 Brake Master Cylinder (has same part number though as my previous MC. Custom Made by Brakewest ADR Approved Braided Lines to suit. I had purchased uprights/hubs from an R33 for the conversion, but it turned out that the bolt sizes were different, so the workshop modified the exisiting uprights/hubs to suit the R33 GTSt brakes. When I picked it up they said that one of the pistons was a bit stuck and they had to muck around a bit with it. I thought they were just finding something to charge more for, but when I had brake pads and discs changed by another mechanic he also mentioned one of the pistons is slow to come out and if there was anything else that he'd do it would be to rebuild the front calipers. I had the brake conversion done last quarter of last year. It's only really been over the last couple of months that braking performance has decreased and now gotten this bad, and squealing starting about a week and a bit after having new pads and discs fitted (bendix ultimates on the front). I originally changed the discs and pads as they were due, but also to rule out if that was the issue. Brakes were nice and strong after that but later got worse again

I noticed when reversing into my parking the brakes don't really squeal as much, but applying brake pressure i hear like a creaking noise from the front sounds like the calipers. I know that one of the pistons is a bit slow to pop back out on one of the calipers, I THINK it was that one. Thing is the loud squealing and also this creaking sound is coming from the drivers side that the booster is on. Is it possible that a leaking seal on the caliper would be allowing air or water to be sucked back into the lines, and therefore creating the soft/dead brakes? and perhaps the squealing is just a result of that? or maybe it could be both booster and caliper? The last time I had it in they swapped back the old master cylinder that I had before that I know was in good working condition, and also bled the brake lines. After that it was a significant improvement! But now the problem with the brakes feeling dead is back again. The squealing never left though, just over this last week it's gotten a whole lot worse particularly after a long run. To give an example, I was on the motorway approaching the toll gates so naturally slow down trying to slow down more through the gears than just foot on brake... but after applying brakes from a gradual slow stop at the gate, (stopping from around 30-40km/hr) the ear piercing squeal was deafening! so much that the lady at the toll booth gave me a really bad look! I've ordered a front caliper seal overhaul kit to have the front calipers rebuilt, and also got an R33 GTSt booster/cylinder on the way too. Either way it's going to be good to have the matching booster for the R33 brakes and front calipers seem to be in need of rebuilding.. so this will isolate both of those possibilties and hopefully that will be the end of it.

Good work fishpaste I'm a bit late posting in this thread, but I think I'll definitely be up for a new hoodie embroidered. I trust your judgement with a good quality/fitment hoodie. For the sake of it I wouldn't mind getting the replacement done as well, but so far the comments on the previous hoodies aren't looking so promising. Any idea on what the expected date would be, even just a rough guess? Cheers Nathan

I'm now more confident that it's the brake booster that's causing my grief. My brake pedal feels fairly firm without a lot of travel, and little stopping power really, unless i give it a few presses when approaching an intersection. Once the car gets to operating temperature braking performances decreases more and it squeals! which I thought was just the bendix ultimate, but they didn't start squealing till a week or so after having them fitted at least a month ago now. The squealing is more of a high pitch whistling type sound, variable by the pressure i'm applying and starts squealing as the car slows down from low speed. It appears to be coming from the booster side of the front of the car, and after talking to a workmate in the know about brake boosters, he said yeah it will start squealing soon if its the booster, and that was before i mentioned any squealing. From what I described he reckons that it's the booster and that the diaghrams probably blown out. I must note though that before it got to the squealing stage, my brakes were like Ryan described.. in fact glass brakes is a good way to describe it, scarily smooth particularly when driving down the lookout instead it would still have a bit of play before it came completely to a stop. I'm wondering if Ryan's problem is the same, a brake booster on the way out ? I am in no way an expert on brakes, but from what I've been reading, and based on all the other components I've isolated (everything but the booster) this appears to be my problem.

No worries If you get a pod like I said just shield it or you'll end up with worse performance for your day to day driving. An N/A isn't going to see anywhere near the temperatures of a turbocharged Skyline, and a lot of those run unshielded. Colder air = more power; hot air = heatsoak and loss of power as the air intake is taking in cold air. Making up an air box with a cold air feed into it is the best way to get performance with a pod filter.

Does the Brake Booster come complete with Master Cylinder?

Yeah, sounds alike... I find the ultimates are very dusty! my wheels are shadow chrome though and the insides of the spokes are dark, so isn't so bad, but definitely a dust storm lol I pretty much went for ultimates and new rotors in the hope of ruling out whether it was just my rotors n pads having aged to the point of needing replacing, but the only thing left now really is the brake booster, unless there's another problem somewhere else... I just want confidence in my brakes again ~_~

I think I've got a very similar problem to what you're having. Do you find that sometimes it's quite soft after one press, but after a couple it firms up when slowing up to an intersection? Also at times the brake pedal is way too soft? I've done the R34 GT to R33 GTSt conversion and what you're saying sounds similar. I must say I kind of had more faith in the brakes I had before and didn't get the braking performance increase I expected. I had slotted RDA's on the front with Bendix Ultimates, Bendix GCTs on the rear, ADR Braided Lines front and rear, R33 GTSt Calipers front and rear, R33 GTSt Master Cylinder, and Motul RBF660 and a UAS Brake Master Cylinder Stopper. Last month I had the other master cylinder put in to rule out whether that was at fault, and had the mechanic bleed and change fluid to a DOT 4 fluid for the time being. Seemed allright initially, mechanic described it as nearly throwing him through the windshield when pulling up hard. Now a couple of weeks later it seems to be back to the softness, and having to press down a lot or several times to get it to pull up the way it "should". It's pretty much all or nothing at times. Once they warm up a bit too it's worse... apply a steady rate of braking pressure to the pedal and nothing much, push it more and car sort of lunges forward a bit. I don't know if I'm on the right track here, but would the increased number of calipers have something to do with it? Perhaps the brake booster not being matched to the new brake setup? or not necessarily? Are the brake boosters very different between N/A and Turbo skylines? I'll be watching this thread closely.

Spotted a white R33 coming out of maccas in Sunnybank bit after 6 this evening. Saw a blue R32 drop into the Kumho Tyres warehouse in Coopers Plains yesterday.. had GTR Rear wheels and a Elite Racing Developments Sticker on the rear quarter window. I was getting lunch from the takeaway when I heard the RB coming around the corner

Found the invoice! Here goes with an extract: BNF24Z Swaybar-h/duty Blade adjustable BNR11Z Swaybar-h/duty Blade adjustable KDFL-101 NISSAN SKYLINE GTR NZ Fr LOWER KDRL-61SP NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTR Rr LOW SPF0984K UNIVERSAL SWAY-BAR BRACKET Looking at this site, the swaybar codes match up as being front and rears for R33 and R34 RWD. http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112382 The KD Codes are for the king springs. I listed them above for informational purposes since parts for a R34 N/A Sedan components were in question here. Hope that the codes are accurate, basically transposing what I have here. Hope this helps.

I've seen a few DE NEO's for sale for months now without much luck in selling... one of which is from a business specialising in Jap parts. You've got a GT-V though? Since you've got the equipment of the GTT why not do a bolt on conversion? Or given the dollars you would spend on a new DET NEO/ECU, labour for engine in and out, then the return you may or may not get on the old engine...you might as well save more and look at rebuilding it for a strong turbocharged engine.

Saw 83CKS driving through Redbank Plains on Sunday.. I was in the Silver R34 Sedan, remembered seein you on here

Send a PM to DORI34 he's about to commence his turbo conversion soon and unless he's already got a buyer lined up, I'm sure he'd be happy to sell you his DE NEO injectors. Edit: just noticed you were only after one... good luck, might be worth trying a wreckers as most people buy all 6 together. There was a forum member that bought my old DE NEO injectors few months ago, can't remember who it is now, but if they didn't need/use all six then you might be in luck.

That tube is a vacuum line. I've been told by people that have done this that it's not important and to tuck it away... though I'm really not certain as to what the particular function of that vacuum line is. More than anything, a pod will make a difference to the induction sound. Whilst the pod filter looks good, sounds good and can take in a lot of air quite freely; it will also soak up all the engine bay heat a lot more than an airbox with a panel filter, unless of course you enclose it and run a CAI (Cold Air Intake). A CAI could just be a tube running cold air from say the front bar into the air box To be honest, you'll be better off just replacing the panel filter with say a K&N High Flow filter as you've got a cold air feed from the opening under the bonnet that feeds into the box, and an N/A can only take in so much air anyways... as opposed to forced induction where the filter becomes even more of a restriction. The first step in unlocking N/A power is relieving all the restrictions in the air flow in and out of the engine, and as far as a filter goes, the K&N Panel will do the job just fine. I've read about some people's experience with pod filters creating more power in the top end in freeway driving, this is mainly due to the ram effect of the cold air hitting the filter, but that's really the only way that you'll get the most out of a pod filter vs the panel filter.

I'm lovin that front bar! That GTR looks good too

Bring it up in suspension. I can't seem to find it anywhere! which is strange cause I keep all my car stuff in a folder...that I try not to look at lol I wouldn't have thrown it though as it had all the alignment results etc.. so if it comes up somewhere I'll post up.

I'll try dig up my invoice from Fulcrum to see what part numbers are on it. If I recall there was mention of GTR on a couple of parts, I just thought maybe its just the way they entered the inventory on their system, perhaps a part suitable for most models... but maybe it is in fact different. I'll see what I can find later tonight.

Care to elaborate on this set up? I like it

To be honest, I'm really not sure... I got a quote from Fulcrum for springs sway bars and fitting + alignment and they ordered the parts. They may be the same? Sydneykid will probably be able to answer that question for you. Or give Whiteline a call.

I don't 'think' that sway bars make the ride harsher, rather just stabilise the load between the two sides of the vehicle. I can't really comment too much on the before and after with sway bars as I also had 30mm lowered king springs fitted at the same time as my whiteline bars, but I can definitely say that it made a difference to the body roll. The combination of spring/shocks and tyres/tyre pressure used would make a lot more difference to comfort. I am in no way a suspension expert but that is how I understand it.