N-DAWG

Hey mate, just after current price and ETA on R33 GTS-t Slotteds for a front pair to 4108. Cheers Nathan

I like your thinking Luke... if you're prepared to do that and start out with a fresh motor suited for the turbo, you'll be able to get more out of it safely.

PM Replied, EFT Done

Put me down for one too. Just PM me payment details and I'll reply with my delivery details I take it they're ONLY available in Black? just wondering. Cheers Nathan

edit: thought I was posting int he group by thread lol

You have factory LSD? *gets jelous* lol good luck with the 5 stud brake upgrade Luke, maybe look for a Skyline that's been written off, but still has the engine, brakes, diff etc.. in good condition. I see them up for sale occasionaly, most have been rolled though. But so long as the parts you want are still in good condition, it might make it easy to do the engine swap, brake upgrade, diff upgrade and whatever else you can think off, and sell the left overs and old parts. Just a thought. Something like this basically: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R34-...A1%7C240%3A1318 except a turbo model of course and be a simple bolt on changeover and if you're in luck with the old parts should bring the costs down a bit

Yeah definitely use a front mount. you can get away easily with 7 pound. I eventually want to get a EBC to run it at around 8-9 to begin with, hopefully to get it spooling up to that boost quickly and maintain that boost level. Thing is, the N/A+t gets up to daily driving speed fairly quickly that accoridng to the boost gauge it barely makes a lot of boost before your up to 60, and a lot of the time i find myself cruising without making boost if i'm driving down a slight slope or just letting momentum carry the car a bit. Put it this way, for fuel economy when driving sedately it's not much difference to when i drove it N/A as I was revving it out more than I do/need to now. So long as you have everything you need, converting it to N/A+t isn't taht bad. You've gotta remove the exhaust and manifold etc.. anyways, as well as mount the SMIC and piping. The biggest extra on the R33 conversion would have to be running the oil and water lines, which I believe the oil line is just plugged, and the water can come from the heater hose, though my tuner decided it best to leech of the intake plenum for that. Of course with the engine swap provided you can get the ECU, means you won't have to stuff around with tuning or remaps and all the extra cost associated with it. If you decide to go PowerFC though, then at least you'll be just swapping the unit and only need tuning..not like a piggy back. So yeah, way up the balance, get a price to go either way drive in drive out, then decide. Either way both are expensive options, but I agree that swapping is a good starting point as it gives you the basis of everything to follow, and you've got a common ground with the GTSt skylines when it comes to mods, parts and other things.

Okay...I see your reasoning to want to keep it now. So you intend to do the engine/box and ecu. Well if you're wanting to have fun with a high compression motor with the expectation to rebuild later and make it stronger again by doing so later, then high compression turbo's are nice and responsive off the line. Up to you what you want out of your car, how much you intend to spend, how hard you want to push it, and how reliable you want it to be. If you're intending on doing the big brake upgrade then might as well keep your car as either way you want to upgrade the brakes to aftermarket. You already have LSD? even more reason to then keep it. If i was in your position, I'd be deciding between an engine swap/ECU/Box swap; OR turbocharging the existing engine and using and go with an aftermarket ECU and rebuild later on when it needs it. I would be leaning more towards swapping the engine for reliablities sake, and sometimes the cost can easily work out the same..BUT..if you get a kinder suprise half cut then there's always the risk and the "what if". Rebuild the engine to cope with a nice turbo set up to begin with if you can afford to...or do it later when it needs it. Check out the N/A+t results thread to see what to expect.

blown det? i don't understand what you mean by "blown" if by dead, and then rebuilding it, you'd might as well do that with your current engine unless you wanted to rebuild a dead engine and sell your current one... I done the bolt on conversion...so long as you don't go crazy with boost and it's tuned well you'll be fine. BUT If I done it all over again, I probably would have done an engine swap. buying a front cut is certainly a good option though as I highly recommend a brake upgrade! Not to mention having GTSt brakes makes life a bit easier with parts and brake hoses and wheels etc... Just remember you'll need to convert the rear hubs to 5 stud though. I must say though...you have a completely stock N/A R33...I've seen a number of threads for people trying to actually buy a N/A R33 that is stock and clean. For the dollars you'll be spending on upgrading to turbo, suspension, brakes etc... sell it and buy a GTSt or GTT. That would be my recommendation, then at least you have a good starting base to begin with. That is the engine is already turbocharged, you can upgrade in stages starting with the exhaust, front/dump and cat, then an intercooler, then make your way up to an EBC, then you can start getting serious with tuning, and do it safely with a car already built to be turbocharged. If you had already done so much with your R33 then my response would be more along the lines of engine swap, or bolt on, or rebuild and turbo.

I've been driving it a bit over month now. The first went the same day. They cleaned up the tune a bit more not long after cause I felt that it was running a bit rich. and it's been over a month since. Just those 3 that went like dominoes last Friday night. I've been doing more reading on the eManage also on other non-skyline specific sites and other cars have had the issue as well. Some refer to it as the eDamage. A few people have found the car runs smoother, boosts smoother and doesn't stutter or anything when they bypass the ignition harness. Problem for me though is that I need the ignition timing control as I'm running a DE+t set up...so right now anything that is going to stop the coilpacks from popping is going to help. I haven't been able to find any reference to a fix from GReddy themselves yet, so I don't know that updating firmware is definitely going to fix the problem or not. I've heard of people with R34's that have updated firmware and a year later still going well. If I was in Melbourne there's a few places I would have like to go to, provided they'd tune a DE+t (my biggest problem was finding a tuner for the emanage let along a DE+t with emanage). I'm in Brisbane though.

Question... I've had my eManage Blue fitted as part of my turbo conversion in January this year using the ignition harness, optional fuel harness and the ignition signal adapter. Same day one of the packs died (smoke was evident from the coilpack cover). I had a spare one put in temporarily till I got splitfires, which before I had the chance to get in, I lost 3 coilpacks in the space of 10 minutes last Friday night. Same deal lotsa smoke from the coilpacks and the typical smell. Now I've got the splitfires in again and it's all good, but I'm worried about losing coilpacks again. I asked my tuner which firmware they used, they told me 1.11 Now a bit of research on the GReddy site reveals that there have been several updates since. Should I look at getting the latest firmware flashed and be done with it? Or should I look also at the zenner diodes? Is wiring in the zenner diodes just as simple as cutting each wire on the ignitino signal adapter and soldering them in between? If this simple cheap mod fixes/prevents the problem it's better than smoking more coilpacks!

Sounds about right... my cat Magnaflow hi flow metal cat was around $249 in addition to my cat-back system.

eManage is piggy back, hence a lot of wires to splice in, as opposed to straight swapping the ECU with a PowerFC.

Yeah sounds like your on the right track then Change coilpacks too while you're at it... i lost another one last night, haven't had the chance to get my splitfires in. I later lost another 1 or maybe 2? lucky i was 9kms from home RACQ towed it without it putting me outta pocket.. but save the headache and get them done too if you haven't. is the R33 GTSt ECU remappable?

o_O Get that thing tuned man! get some sort of engine management happening for it to run properly you need your ignition timing and a/f ratios tuned right.

Have you had it tuned?

Item: R33 Factory BOV Condition: Good Location: Brisbane Price: $45 Posted Firm Reason for sale: Purchased for my turbo conversion, ended up using a aftermarket BOV.

The 4 Door R34 25GT is different in a number of ways =/ Makes it a bit of a pain when getting parts and knowing what works. Whislt they aren't as common as the 2 Doors, it might be worthwhile making a thread for reference for 25GT Sedan specific components (eg. brakes, diff, iirc the suspension was a bit different too? can't really remember now about suspension..)

You're definitely on the right track if you're preparing everything else for the turbo, you definitely can't go wrong doing that, I done the same Question, do you have an auto or manual? If auto you're going to be limited to piggy back. If you have a manual and you can afford a stand alone unit I recommend that. At least you'll save a good few hundred on install. I got my eManage Blue for $320 (unused private sale on eBay), the harnesses were $70 each through Perfectrun.com.au, that is the optional fuel injector harness and ignition timing harness. Install couple of places quoted around $300-350 (there are a lot of wires to splice in). Allow $400-600 for tuning as well, whether that be eManage or Apexi PFC. You can see how the emanage can easily cost $800-950, and if you look at a eManage Ultimate, you're getting close to PowerFC prices which can be swapped over and with a turbo you'll have a base map to start with. btw..i'm running an eManage Blue with the RB25DE NEO ECU.

if you are looking to turbo later, why not start with at least something with the capabilities of the emanage blue. The SAFC isn't going to yield a lot of gains for you now, and won't allow the same level of tuning as a emanage blue will. Also depends though on whether you throw in a DET ECU or keep the DE ECU. If you had extractors then you would gain a bit out of a SAFC, but if you're planning on going turbo later, then extractors are going to be a waste in the long term. Remember that tuning isn't cheap! Nor is installation of piggyback ECU's. For the little gains that you'll get now, then re-tuning later when you turbocharge, save your dollars, buy a emanage or similar when you need/benefit the most from it. If you have money to spend on getting more performance, look at suspension or better still brake upgrade before the turbo.

Super C. http://www.erightsoft.net/Superdc.html Does pretty much everything, and it's free, no catches. Been using it for quite some time now.

N/A Skylines are well known for their rasp around that rev range...just wondering if that's what it is

Clicky sound? or is it more like a rasp around 3500 revs?

I've read really great things about the Stage 2 Shift Kits, definitely plan to get one in the near future after a few other important things (both car and non-car related). Has anyone had the same upgrade done in Brisbane? Anyone recommend a workshop to carry it out hoepfully around the same price as the above? I'm hoping this will solve the frustrations I have with my laggy auto box

I'm running king springs 30mm lowered from factory height. Generally look between King Springs and Whiteline. Back when I got mine done, I actually asked a local suspension place what they recommend, whiteline or king springs. There answer was simply both are good, but we support the Queensland brand which is king springs. I didn't end up getting them from that place though...I actually got quoted believe it or not around $600 less from Fulcrum Suspension. So shop around when you get your suspension done. Sydney Kid's got a list of recommended suspension work shops. To answer your question on how much better time you will get... the sway bars, coilovers and good rubber are all going to help stiffen up the chassis and keep the car flatter particularly around corners which will all help in maintaining power and speed...but what time you manage to get will depend on your driving skill. Practice makes perfect and your car will handle differently after those modifications. Once you adjust to the way your car drives and handles, you can improve your times. Don't just expect to get out there with new suspension parts and suddenly pull of ripper times from the word go. It's good to see someone trying to improve their cars handling and power through suspension and handling before looking for more performance power gains.