N-DAWG

R34 Sedan is actually reasonably spacious. I quite often have a full car on various occasions without any complaints from backseat passengers. Don't expect it to be as spacious as say a luxury falcon or commodore, but considering it's a Skyline it's still quite roomy and comfortable for backseat passengers. I'm not completely sure in comparison to the 2 Door R34, but for a sports car, the boot is very big! You can fit quite a lot! For example, I've been able to fit in a large suitcase, the 15" sub in a 1.5 cu.ft. box, and still have more room to fit more.

In short... lowered springs with matching shocks, or coilovers, sway bars, and don't understimate the tyres ability to get power to the ground as well as stop the car. Depending on what the car is used for will also determine what tyre to get. eg. is it a daily driver where you want good handling both in wet and dry conditions, or does the car predominantly see the track/weekend driver? Lowering the cars centre of gravity is what you want to achieve, note though that if you go too low you'll achieve the opposite of what you want. sway bars and strut braces help distribute the load between the sides of the car and keep the car flatter around corners. This means the car maintains traction around corners which equals more power to the ground around the twists and more control and less oversteer. Corners and curves are where you will really notice the difference when upgrading suspension in the ability to enter and exit the apex quickly. If all you're after is straightline speed (ie. drag racing) correct me if i'm wrong but stiffening up the suspension isn't necessarily the best thing? I read somewhere that in some cases the softer factory suspension is better for straightline speed/drags. Whiteline sway bars are a good way to go. Also look at adjustable camber and castor bushings to replace old worn ones, and also get the camber right all around after lowering. If you're not taking it on the track, springs are probably a better way to go as a daily. I haven't used coilovers myself, but I've heard that you'll be in for a bumpy ride if it's mainly a daily driver. Lowered king springs on my R34 is bumpy enough. Have a read of the articles on the Whiteline web site, that will be a good starting point in addition to the threads in the suspension forum.

When they run the plates on the system it's no doubt going to mention the make and model etc... If you're lucky enough to have a cop not know the difference between say a GTS and GTSt then you may be in luck unless they pull you over.

Adam, I think the fact that you've done it "properly", kept it neat, and done one very clean job of it makes it look a lot better in the eys of the law. I too am looking to do the same on my R34 soon

Hey Dan, how's Project EXA coming along?

I try to time my services with major upgrades =] My last service coincided with my conversion, works out bit more worthwhile then. Check out some of the sponsors, I know there's some that do the 100k service drive-in-drive-out quoted parts supplied. I done mine when I was still relatively new to Queensland and ended up getting a mechanic referred to by work mates to do mine. Got my timing belt kit from CRD (Croydon Racing Developments). My mechanic said my water pump still looked good till probably 150-180,000 kms at which point I'd might as well do the timing belt again. By the time I get to that sort of mileage (I've done under 10,000 in the last year) I'll be ready to take performance to another level and do a rebuild anyways, so I didn't worry about the water pump at that stage particularly when cash flow for me wasn't at its best. If you're looking to get adjustable cam gears, that's a good time to do it since the cam cover and belt is off and they're changing the seals. I wish I'd tried to squeeze in an adjustable exhaust cam gear back then, would have allowed for a bit more fine tuning.

Have a grand ready for the 100k service. They replace the water pump, timing belt, and the other usual stuff. It's the labour involved in such a service. Still though, the cost of a 100k service is nothing compared to that of a snapped belt resulting in anything from bent valves and other expensive engine repair. When I bought my R34 I was told that the timing belt had been replaced already. I didn't take the chance, got it changed, and sure enough it was the original very worn factory timing belt. Make sure you get the idler and tensioner pulleys as well as seals. Anything can affect the performance really, from spark plugs, to coil packs, the fuel used, the cat could be holding it back due to age, air filter might need cleaning...a lot of variables really. What fuel do you use? Also keep in mind not all Dyno's will report the same. I've known of some cars to read out anywhere from 10-20kw different between dynos. You should always use the same Dyno when measuring performance between modifications if you're wanting to see the comparison.

Is that all? just a pod no exhaust? If so 101 probably isn't too bad..pretty sure they make around 91 stock standard... oh and i'd be getting that 100k service done...a busted timing belt can be pretty nasty, prevention is better than cure, unless you want an excuse to do a rebuild

I don't see any logical reason why it wouldn't prime... my N/A pump primed, and the GSS342 Walbro pump primes also. Something doesn't sound right...

s1.533, It's only coilpack number 3 that's been temporarily replaced, I think my tuner fitted it with a washer or something to hold it in, just for me to be able to keep driving. Been going a few weeks liek that now lol How much does he want for the splitfires? If it's significantly cheaper you could probably give them a go At the end they're splitfires so they're going to be a good brand of coilpack. If it's only a saving of say $50 or less, then if it were me I'd just buy new ones.

I see...in that case try to get the thicker core R34 SMIC to keep temps low. You realise that there are insurance issues as well with illegally driving a turbo car, yes? Yeah use the airbox... the high compression starts making boost at 2,000 revs, and with a pod it is blatantly obvious that there's a turbo with the induction sound it makes.

Here ya go: http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...ns_brochure.pdf

Correct about the igniters. I have one R33 coilpack in mine at the moment, temporary bandaid fix till I get splitfires (which are on the way). It's been temporarily mounted as well, think the bolts lined up differently or something, but they work.

Not bad for $350!! Yes change the fuel pump. GTSt or GTR like you said, or get a Walbro pump. Given the age I decided just to get a new Walbro GSS342 ( I think this is the same model for the R33?) Best to be safe and upgrade it from the start...plus saves retuning again later. If you're running the stock turbo n all, you could probably go with a JJR Front/Dump Pipe from Just Jap...$200 does the job well, I used one myself. Hi Power Racing used different gaskets than what was supplied though. What are you going to do in terms of intake cooling? Vic has the one intake mod rule yes? I would sooner try and get a factory airbox with a hi-flowpanel and run a FMIC on a high compression turbo setup. iirc the R33 has the oil feed blanked off with a blanking bolt? With the R34 custom lines had to be made up, and there were a variety of ways it could have been done.

I've got a Turbosmart Single Stage Boost Controller if you want to use that..I want to go EBC due to the way the boost fluctuates on the R34 N/A. How much are you looking to spend? That will dictate how much to spend. For example whether you want to use a factory manifold and factory R33/R34 turbo, or go for an aftermarket exhaust manifold and aftermarket turbo. Do a search in the for sale and post up in the Wanted to Buy, should find some good bits there. If you want a parts list I'm sure a few of us can put up a list of the parts we used to get you started. I used a mix of aftermarket and factory parts. Pretty much everything was new/used aftermarket bits except for the injectors which I used GTT injectors, exhaust manifold was a factory item, and a R33 series 2 Turbo though I wish I held out till I found a good R34 one

You have/had an RB20DET but you can't drive a turbo? As far as I understand, the car's VIN is still a turbo car and that is what they go by. I'm not completely sure how it is in Vic though. In Queensland the rule also states any modification that requires an Engineer's Approval and mod plate. If it's the same sort of deal in VIC then changing the engine is going to need engineer approval. I think you've got a few things to look into in terms of the legalities of the mechanical work to be done in accordance with your licencing before working out your options.

Like Dori said, even the eManage Blue will be fine for N/A...hey I'm using it for my turbo conversion! Look around to try pick one up at a good price... I got mine for $320 posted (private sale, but unused) and the optional harnesses worked out around $70AUD each from Japan through Perfrectrun. Also check out this site that Dori sent me before: www.etuner.com.au

That's nice! I'm not a huge fan of the green colour on skylines, but I don't mind that. Can't say I've seen it though...I have seen a green Skyline (can't remember if it was a 33 or 34 now) in South Bank Brisbane, but I don't think it was that one. Yeah that's a big saving definitely! JustJap have the PowerFC's listed about 2Gz now!

I will look out for the swoosh gauges then If you can extract the data from the eManage Blue by all means I'll be happy for you to check it out..I don't have the maps on disc or anything myself though. Just let me know one weekend if you want to check it out. I'm in Wollongong at the moment till Monday, but after that just shoot me through a PM. I'm really keen to try alleviating the flow through the plenum, I like having the power down low and in the mid range, moreso than up top...one of the reasons I was also attracted to the high CR set up. Stainless steel start button sounds pretty cool, will look nice in that dash trim too! I'll definitely look at fitting an EBC in that compartment when the time comes...I like to keep the inside of the car looking relatively standard/stock when it comes to my go fast bits

Thanks Dan Yeah it certainly will. I'm not sure how doing the consant 12V+ method will effect tuning though..or will it be able to adjust accordingly? I just don't want to do the butterfly mod and then have it run to lean? If anything I'd probably wait till I see someone selling an R34GTT Intake plenum/manifold and use that...but then I'm not sure how the lines would work out then since that's where i'm getting the water feed from... I'm still running the R34 GT NEO ECU with eManage Blue and all harnesses. Your dash is so clean! I've really got to get around to buying metho and new dash paint, mines looking pretty bad now! Where'd you get that shifter from? The leather on the top of mine started wearing and now its just continuing from there =/ What brand of gauges are they? So far I've only really seen the Just Jap Gauges, the expensive Defi Panel Gauges, and the el cheapo eBay ones that fit the din panel... I may still do the cig lighter mod..if done right I'm sure it can look quite clean. I use the ash tray to store a mini light and garage remote so I don't particularly want to remove that..though if I get an EBC I might mod the ash tray area, unless I stick with Plan A and put it in the little compartment on the lower right of the steering wheel, stealthly hidden.

dude..you have a Power FC and and the Turbo ECU? No question about it! use that! lol I'm assuming it will work ont he Series 1.5? If so, then score!!

If you're going manual, aim for a stand alone ECU like a PowerFC =] If not then eManage Ultimate will probably be the way to go for Piggy Back.

Running straight off the actuator, but peaks around 9. I think it's a combination of the cheap intercooler i'm using and the intake on the RB25DE NEO. I'll look at a EBC later on not so much for more power but to stabilise the boost, maybe run it at 9. Remembering the R34 has the butterfly valve in the intake that opens at 4500revs... you can see where the boost starts building and drops a bit on the gear changes, but then it jumps by approx 1PSI on 4500revs. The intake manifold pressure is going to be different before and after 4500revs simply cause of the amount of air the butterfly valve is letting through. I'm looking at the HDI Electronic Boost Controller at the moment as it comes with the boost gauge, which is a bonus as I need that also. They're under $400 for the combo as well. I don't know too much about them though so still need to do a bit more research. Only thing is I want 52mm gauges to mount in the din panel, maybe put a 4th gauge where the cigarette lighter is. I've seen this done before and I only use the cig lighter for the GPS, but there's ways around getting power elsewhere for that. I just don't think the HDI Boost Gauge will fit well in that location though... I'm not a fan of plastering my gauges on the dash..not a big fan of being defected either

Maike, I believe the copper plugs will work, I've "heard" that they perform a bit better but don't last nearly as long? If someone can confirm that... My N/A R34 had Platinums when it was imported. I'm running Iridiums now after the turbo install. How much cheaper are the copper ones compared to the iridiums? How long can you hold out to get the iridiums?

Read those how to get more power threads. Look at the power results threads to see the gains that have been had with different modifications (remembering that it costs a lot to get power out of an N/A) The for sale Business Traders section is a good place to get prices from, and a lot of these sponsors give special pricing for SAU members: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...aders-f141.html Also have a look in private sale threads, you might find some good bargains. For labour, none other than your local exhaust shop/performance workshops/tuners. I'm sure a brief search in the Vic forums will reveal some good tuners in your area, they'll be able to tell you how much what you want is going to cost. To give you a rough idea though and a starting point (it sounds to me that you want a brief rough estimate of what these things can cost, and where to begin): 2.5" Catback Exhaust ($400-600 for a custom exhaust, depending on whether it's press bent or mandrel bends, the type of tip used etc..) Hi-Flow Panel air filter such as a K&N Panel...or get a Pod style filter (non-oiled) box it up and run a Cold Air feed for best results...you'll probably find that you NEED to do that anyways in Vic, might be easier just to go with a panel and done. Allow $70-90 for one of those. Extractors, allow up to a grand for a set of Coby's from NZ, or DKNE extractors from Aus, with HPC Coating and Install and Exhaust gasket. Hi-Flow Cat <$200 for something suitable for an N/A After that you then look at something to adjust air/fuel ratios if you want to fine tune it, maybe cam gears to adjust timing, add to that install costs and tuning for maybe a few more KW's. To be honest, with that level of modification the factory ECU after a reset (disconnect ground cable from battery, foot on brake for 5-10seconds, reconnect) will relearn quite well. After all that it's the bigger stuff like camshafts, port polishing, etc... and then you're talking bigger dollars as not only do you need the parts, there's a lot of labour work involved when working on the engine internally particularly if you look at port and polish, then you WILL need engine management installed and tuned and just engine management and tuning alone can cost $1500+ easy depending on who tunes it and what you use. Anyways, I'm basically repeating what I've said in the Apexi Power FC Vs Greddy eManage thread. The above should point you in the right direction as far as a starting point is concerned. just don't expect your N/A Skyline to perform like a turbo Skyline, and don't expect huge results for your dollar spent. N/A performance is about relieving as much restriction as possible and trying to get air in and out of the engine efficiently as you don't have a turbo forcing massive amounts of compressed air through it. Ps. If you want to know more about which exhaust to buy, what size etc.. I'll tell you know that it's been asked more times than I can recall, just do a search for that one