N-DAWG

Maybe it "seems" faster with the buttons since you only have to nudge them with your thumbs with hands still on the wheel, as opposed to moving your hand to the lever then moving the lever to shift. I know to me it sort of feels that way...weird lol

You won't really need engine management till you do cams and internal engine work and change things like the fuel injectors. For the cost of the engine management +tuning, I would look at finishing the exhaust and CAI and coilpacks first. Save the engine management for when you "need" it. Look at getting extractors, Coby Extractors from PartsCo in NZ, or DKNE Extractors in Australia (can't really comment on either myself, but Coby's have delivered well for other SAU members, and some have had good experiences with DKNE). You'll be best to get them HPC coated which makes them pricey, but you won't corrode them wiht heat wrap. Might as well upgrade to a hi-flow cat (particularly if you've still got the compliance cat), then get the air intake sorted. Don't just rip out the box and throw in a pod unless you plan to box it up and run a cold air feed. If not, you'll be better off with a K&N Panel filter. Coilpacks are a simple replacement, no special tuning required for that. Btw..What size catback do you have? 2.5"? 3"? You'll be getting a lot more air in and out of the engine with upgrading the cams, you want to make sure the exhaust is going to flow adequately with the new cams, though this depends also on whether you want more power down low, or top end power. Without doing internal engine work, a 2.5" system will give you more low down/mid range power, whereas a 3" will give you more top end power in the high rev range. Remember Fuel + Air + Spark = Power. There's no need for bigger injectors and hi flow fuel pump unless your getting more air in and out of the engine than the R34 GT injectors/pump can supply. Changing the injectors and pump will require retuning, and is isn't going to net you any performance gains unless it's being used, so save this for when you do the cams etc.. that's if you need them. When you do need them, R34 GTT injectors make good budget upgrades for the R34 NEO (R32 and R33 won't fit in factory form, nor will GTR injectors) Basically, to summarise it in the order that I would look at: Catback, Extractors & Hi Flow Cat, CAI. Reset the ECU for it to relearn the changes and adjust. Then look at port polishing, raising compression, bigger cams, adjustable cam gears etc... (all that can easily add up to big dollars and don't expect huge gains for your $$$) THEN you will NEED something like the eManage or PowerFC. Even at that point you MAY not need to upgrade the fuel system (someone please confirm this, as I'm not entirely sure with this level of modification on an N/A). Of course if you plan on running NOS then you will need bigger injectors (probably aftermarket) and aftermarket injectors are not cheap. I know that I've diverted a bit from the topic of Power FC vs the eManage Ultimate, but from what you're saying I just felt like there were a number of other things to be looking at before spending out on engine management and tuning when there isn't really any need for it with the mods you've done, and still a lot more that can be done before it's really needed, or at least before a high end engine management system is needed. My advice is to use that sort of money to get more power out of it first by removing all the other restrictions that exist.

At the rear wheels

Model - R34 25GT Sedan Engine - RB25DE NEO Modifications / Parts Used - RB25DET Factory Exhaust Manifold, R33 Series 2 Turbo, JJR Front/Dump Pipe, Custom 3" Mandrel Bend Catback system with 5" canon tip, Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat, R34 GTT Injectors, Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump, Monsta Performance FMIC Kit, Turbo XS Recirculating BOV, Apexi Power Intake Air Filter, custom speed flow oil and water hoses with speed flow fittings, extra silicon bends (90deg short silicone bend and 90deg long silicone bend), new set NGK Iridium spark plugs, heat shielding, factory piping (turbo inlet, hot pipe from the turbo), oil pressure switch adaptor, T3 foot gasket. Engine Management Used - GReddy eManage Blue with optional Injector and Ignition Harnesses and Ignition Signal Adapter for R34. Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98 Boost Used - 7 PSI (straight off the RB25 Actuator) Dyno Tune Results - 211.9HP Misc - New coilpacks will probably net a bit more gain, fried one same day after having conversion done. Splitfires on the way. Also been told that the dyno used tends to read a lot lower (10-25kw in some cases) but I'm not going for big power figures just yet. Auto transmission + N/A+t = not so great, will definitely do the valve body upgrade. Also on an R34 i advise changing the intake plenum/manifold. All up it actually took more than 29.5 Hours charged, the workshop put extra labour in here and there on their own time (this also included after sales service such as temporary coilpack replacement and additional tuning after fitting the BOV). If another workshop done the same job it could easily be a lot more. Spend extra on a decent FMIC kit. I got mine very cheap (lucky ebay bid) but the piping was pathetic and added to the install time, not to mention otherwise unnecessary cutting of the black plastic grill in the front bar simply so the modified piping could line up. Splitfire Coilpacks will easily add $640 to the cost as well, but I see things like the coilpacks and spark plugs to be a maintenance thing anyway. We all know that R34 coilpacks don't last forever. Note that coilpacks aren't fitted yet...probably won't know what extra power it may add either, but people seem to report that they pull a few extra KW's with them. Costs - Parts: $2,800-3,000 Approximate Labour & Tuning (29.5hrs labour incl. 4-6 Hours Dyno Tuning and install of the eManage): $2600.00 Dyno Graph

What mods have you done or are you planning to do to your N/A R34? Don't forget the piggy back will cost more to install due to all the wiring that has to be done +tuning costs. You might get get the eManage Ultimate for around $900 then add costs of optional harnesses if required, $350 is pretty common for a piggy back install...getting close to the cost of a PowerFC? Generally speaking, a standalone ECU like a PowerFC is the better way to go. If you have an auto though you're kinda stuck for options.. As Cara said it really depends on how much you want to spend, and also what you want to get out of your car. If you're only doing a CAI, Headers, Catback and just want to fine tune that, then a SAFC will be able to do that job. If you're looking at bigger mods like cams, port/polishing then start looking at the higher end of engine management. The factory ECU is quite capable with re-learning simple breathing mods. The best thing you can do though, which is something I should have done, sit down with your mechanic and discuss your options, what you want to plan to do. Then from there you can work out what engine management you need (simple piggy back, or eManage Ultimate, or PowerFC) and it also helps if your tuner prefers the ECU that you get. Some tuners love the PowerFC but won't touch eManage, and vice versa. I had one workshop refuse to quote me on my turbo conversion, party cause of the nature of the conversion (high comp +turbo), but just as much because they don't like to use the eManage. They couldn't really give me a valid explanation as to why though... but certainly something to consider when choosing a tuner. I would go for the eManage Ultimate if you have an auto. I went with eManage Blue myself, purely cause of the price I picked up the unit and harnesses for.

Yeah eventually...they're nothing special at the moment lol And the gearbox lagginess bewteen 2nd and 3rd at around 3-4k revs is starting to annoy me >_> Meanwhile my engine check light hasn't come up since! Spliftire coilpacks on the way soon too

I use both..but mainly use the lever. I usually enable the buttons out of habit. The buttons come in handy if you've got people in the car who decide to browse through songs on the stereo when you're ready for the next gear as you can just change from the wheel instead, or when you're drinking your slurpee between lights and still insist on driving tip lol It is definitely more of a gimmick though... down shifts can be a bit more awkward just cause of the design of the buttons. And as everyone else said about the non-airbag steering wheel. I've been wanting to change mine just cause of the way the leathers been peeling and starting to look crap...but legal or not, why would you want to remove something that could save your life.

keep dreaming...unfortunately you get waht you pay for and 9/10 things end up costing too much or a lot more than expected lol

I'd love to see a RB25DE that can exceed the 200KW limit lol Remember though, your VIN still says it's turbocharged, the car model is still a turbo, and it still requires a Queensland Transport Mod Plate to be issued. If you get pulled up, it may go unnoticed that it's a DE conversion, or if you get a mod plate it will have been well, modified requiring engineers approval. To be honest, the only way you'll really get by with it is to get a non-turbo to begin with. How long till you're off restrictions? There's other non-turbo cars out there (besides Skylines) that will be a great starting point for you. Even if you got a non-turbo S13 or something.

Not only that...it'd be a modification that requires engineer approval. Not sure where you are..but the law in Brisbane for P Platers is any modification that requires an engineer certificate...unless of course you got your provisional licence issued prior to the July 2007 cut off....like me

Short answer: Find someone with a non-turbo that wants to do an engne swap. Long and detailed answers: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...ml&hl=turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...hl=remove+turbo

lol sure thing haha I've actually had the check engine light start coming on a few times now, only started this arvo though.. Basically if backing off the throttle and braking/slowing down from load, it comes on for a bit, or if coming down hill just letting it roll and braking to control speed the light will come on till i apply throttle again. And now when idling, after putting it into park, and the revs settle the light comes on till i rev it again... Remembering this only started this arvo, and I got it back from retuning and fitting the BOV yesterday arvo and have driven it around the same way with no engine light till now. It's late in the evening so I can't exactly make the phone calls that I need to right now as it's this time of the evening and no one's in the workshop.. Just not sure if this sounds okay to drive on the weekend..

Had a slightly overdue oil change done today, along with fitting of the Turbo XS BOV plumbed back in, and a few more hours of fine tuning since the last tune was more of a getting it on the road tune. Another guy tuned it this time too I believe. Result is a much smoother boost curve compared to before. Power wise, it had a fair few runs and max came out at 211.9HP @ around 5600RPM. Boost pressure has improved a lot too since the new changes. Feels a lot smoother and much better and nicer to drive now. The plumback lets out a bit of sound at over 3500-4000 revs...obviously coming on boost a lot earlier that's expected. The gurgling sounds when backing off the throttle have reduced a lot since fitting the BOV as well and just generally it feels a lot better to drive. i've got a full colour Dyno printout as well now, will try get around to scanning it up at work soon, or I can just upload a photo of it later. The auto/tiptronic box is definitely what's letting it down in the power delivery though, specially between shifts. Will probably look at a trans cooler and shift kit upgrade later in the future, but for now the next thing will be to get boost/oil temp/water temp gauges. I'll probably rely on the factory oil pressure gauge as I'd sooner have an oil and water temp. All in good timing though. Feeling much better about the whole conversion now though and will probably just settle for the power it's currently making for the sake of reliability...there's always further down the track where I can do a rebuild and go nuts..it is after all a daily driver.

R34 NEO is top feed, but different to the GTR injectors. R34 GTT NEO injectors make good replacements for more power

Pretty sure they're 270CC

I have one from my R34 25GT removed after brake upgrade..if that's suitable?

If you're chasing those sort of figures...on an N/A R33 to Turbo conversion, I think you'll be looking at more than just the engine and gearbox. At 250-350kw you would probably be better off buying a turbo R33 to start from, and you'll definitely want to upgrade the brakes, probably the diff as well. Supporting mods that come to mind are wheels, tyres, brakes, diff, suspension. It's all well and good to chase that sort of power figure, but unless you can stop that power and control it, you won't have a car for long. The dollars involved in doing this, you probably would be better off selling the N/A R33, buying a R33 GTSt and work on that. Though if you're prepared to upgrade just about everything then I can see where keeping the N/A car you have now is beneficial and saves the hassle of selling and buying again. I would still look at a engine/box swap thoguh as a starting point, and while you have the DET engine out you can get it rebuilt then. 350RWKW is a lot of power! Why not buy a GTR? and go from there... you'll have a much better starting point to support those power figures...

Exemptions aren't something that are handed over that easily. Keep in mind to, IF you were to move back to NSW after having tfr'd to a QLD licence and bought a turbo car, you WILL be back on restrictions if you are still within your provisional licence period. The rules state that if you own a turbo car prior to the new laws in NSW you can claim exemption, if you have not previously held a NSW licence. Just something to also think about. That is of course if you plan on, or end up moving back to NSW.

Where are you trying to get it insured? My first year with JustCar based on bit over a year of being on my provisional licence, was $1581 for my N/A Skyline. About $1680 after doing suspension, wheels, stereo brakes etc.. then after 1s year with them it dropped to $1275. Now I think it's around $1350 a year after doing turbo conversion. I'm 22 as well for a couple of more months, so still under 25. $4k a year for insurance is just mental! I know that in Brisbane yeah it's cheaper, but even in NSW I don't think it gets that high...

Yeah definitely true..unfortunately my actual conversion ran fair bit over budget due to some unforseen things but that happens I guess. I've got R33 GTSt Brakes, R33 GTSt Brake Master Cylinder, ADR Approved Braided Brake Lines, Motul RBF660 fluid Just using what meat was left on the pads and rotors that I got though..but the pads will need changing soon. Probably didn't need to go as far as RBF fluid, but since the brakes were being flushed out I thought might as well do it right to begin with. TBS Performance do a street/occasional track pad that is very cheap compared to other aftermarket pads...I'm thinking about trying them out see how they go, though I haven't been able to find a lot of info on them though.

uhuh very true Cris..unfortunately the cure for it doesn't grow on trees Ideally I would like to look at a shift kit, make better use of the power there. I find between 2nd and 3rd the auto box just doesn't keep up that well. I'd sooner do that then look at more power. I think a shift kit + the plumback BOV will definitely smooth out the power curve. Then pads will probably be due soon. Anyone who doesn't look at upgrading brakes when doing a NA+t is crazy...extra stopping power definitely doesn't go astray. Things like LSD I can live without, but would be nice to have. I really planned to get out to the occasional track day, but I'm really second thinking it with this sort of set up...but if I look at it in the long term, upgraded the auto box, some good pads n later rotors, then in some years to come look at strengthening the bottom end, I will definitely be more confident about pushing some limits. In the end it all = $$$ and when the housing market is looking so attractive, priorities tend to change a bit.

My TurboXS Plumback BOV arrived today...hopefully get it fitted some time during the week and get the tune looked at again and should see some good results All this money on cars...makes me think about selling and getting a normal car again...anyone want an unfinished project? lol

Just Car. It's still classified as an import, so you pay around $1000 in vehicle excess in addition to other excesses. In Brisbane I found it to be couple hundred dollars less than a factory turbo skyline.

If you got your licence before the Queensland cut off date, then they put you on the old system...that's what they done for me? They go by the Qeensland dates not NSW. I was on a P1 due for a P2 licence when I moved up here, and now I'm on an old provisional licence till the remainder of the usual 3 year period... as far as I can see the performance restrictions are for people who hold a P1 or P2 provisional licence issued after this date, unless you can prove that you owned the vehicle prior to this date..and other things to prove as well of course.. http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...provisional.pdf What if I obtained my provisional licence before the changes are implemented? If you already held a valid provisional licence before the changes were implemented the high powered and performance vehicle restriction does not apply to you. If they go by the date in Queensland, which QT told me they do, and the licence issued is a Provisional, NOT a P1 or P2 provisional, and the restrictions say P1 or P2 issued after 1st July 2007, then I can't see how this is a problem. I also confirmed with them Provisional speed limits, and they advised I can legally do the 110km/hr speed limit on the motorway, not the P2 speed limit, which I think is great cause doing under the speed limit on a motorway can be more dangerous in my opinion. I would have another talk to someone else at Queensland Transport. You COULD tell them you already own the vehicle, but they may then ask why you bought the car when you legally can't drive it in NSW. Another great thing about the old system: Those licensed before 1 July 2007 are not required to display P plates. I've never been pulled up in my Skyline and received significantly less attention after not having P Plates on. So long as you aren't hooning around, and don't have a shiny red P on your car, there's less chance of getting that unwanted attention anyway.