N-DAWG

2.5" is the way to go...good to hear it's all worked out

the rattle/rasp at the 3k range is common in N/A Skylines. Replacing the mid muffler with straight pipe will make the exhaust louder. Jasma approved means it meets the japanese standards. If it's 3 Inch inlet, your local exhaust shop will need to downsize that pipe. I really don't think you're going to notice much difference if any. If you want to get the most out of your exhaust system, get them to make up a 2.5" catback system with the straight through rear muffler, and use a high flowing mid-muffler or resonator to keep it quiet. Good luck getting rid of the noise at 3k revs though.

Update: Turbo Actuator Sold on eBay All else still for sale!

sent pm re: bov

Yeah, both front and rear ventilated, front were 280mm 2 pot caliper, the rear were 265mm 1 pot caliper. These were the front 280mm that I had removed: http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00765Large.jpg And these are the rear 265mm ones: http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00766Large.jpg The front calipers: http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00768Large.jpg http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00769Large.jpg The Rear Calipers: http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l33...C00770Large.jpg Not sure if visually they are the same? Wouldn't suprise me if Nissan used them on more than one model Skyline, and if it's a RB20E than it's hardly going to need the bigger brakes in its stock form (after all these came of a RB25DE R34 Sedan). If they are the same, then don't expect to find many aftermarket listings for the rear brakes. My local brake shop told me they could get them in plain RDA discs. Getting anything better than that seemed near impossible, and with a turbo conversion on the way I just upgraded them, and saved the hassle for future replacement parts.

My R34 25GT Sedan had 265mm Rear Discs with single pot calipers...not sure if that really helps you much though It was a pain to get any decent discs for them as well, I ended up upgrading the whole brake set up in the end. I was only able to get 265mm in plain non-slotted items. I'm wondering if it's the same brakes that were used on the R34 Sedan.

I heard from one of my room mates that knows the guy, that it was imported from the states, so not a jap spec model. It is truly beautiful to behold

Don't particularly want to disclose location, out of respect for the owner and also that my own skyline is parked in the garage, but you may see it around Garden City area. Factory Silver with limited edition 7 character personalised plates, should stand out if you see it around.

Update: Braided Lines sold on eBay Everything else still for sale.

lol nicely said figjam... we don't need more negative image out there!

Blunt answer: read the how to turbo an N/A Skyline thread. Short answer: Factory Turbo uses low compression motor, the motor is stronger, and the low compression is made up for by boost from the turbo Bolt on turbo uses an N/A motor. The high compression is used for low down torque and quick response, and low(er) boost from the turbo gives it the extra power and top end. There is risk in turbocharging an N/A motor, reliability is put at risk, though tuning is definitely the key to a successful longer life. You can only run so much boost before you bust the internals or need to look at a rebuild to seek more power. There are some with balls though who have been willing to defy the norm and push the limits (wytsky i'm looking at you lol) but at the end of the day it depends on the driver. Some are fine with not having boost till 3-3500 revs and being able to run a lot more top end power, whilst others want a more useable engine that boosts at 2000 revs. The other is cost. If I was to do it over again, i would get a turbo skyline to begin with, or do an engine swap. Other things to consider of course, unless you have a GTV, is the brakes, gearbox, lsd, just to name a few. My advice to you is to read through the how to turbo your N/A thread as this is pretty much all covered. Best to ask questions there, there are plenty of DE+t people there that can answer them.

hehehe that made me laugh lol

I see a R35 GTR every morning in the shared car park when i leave to work... dunno who owns it, one of a possible 160+ people, but whoever it is I'd love to be them! lol

Non Turbo R34's don't have Traction Control and LSD, unless you have a GTV.

running eManage Blue with optional fuel and ignition harnesses. I'm wanting more safe long-term reliability so I think i'll be sticking with the 7psi method for a while unless I'm willing to do a rebuild. Dan got over 50,000ks with his 7PSI set up, i done under 9,000km in a year (living where i am now though that is, quite close to work and everything else) so if i keep this up, drive it in a reasonable manner by the time i get that sort of mileage out of it I may be prepared to rebuild the bottom end to make more power and bigger turbo etc... I'm not quite in the position to just be throwing out money on cars lol though I have in the last year spent more than I'd like to admit lol

hmmm i've read briefly about the E85....I'm tuned for BP Ultimate at the moment though.

The R34's are nice n clean...till you remove the airbox and the neo cover lol

Will the Falcon coilpacks work on the R34 NEO? I spoke to the tuner this morning, apparently the boost reading was of the intake manifold and it's the characteristics of the R34 intake plenum that would be contributing to it. They believe that if it was taken from another point, or if it was even viewed on a boost gauge it will be unnoticeable. I've been told that a EBC should be something to look at later, and they don't recommend spending up on one right now, just to take one step at a time. As for blow off valve, to fit the factory one on the piping I have will mean grinding back the shiny surface of the pipe and welding a plate, then fitting the bov n plumbing it back in...which could turn out to look quite ugly and be a lot of work. The other option which I've been researching, is to use a BOSCH bypass valve such as the ones found on factory turbo systems on european cars. A bit of research shows them to be able to hold boost quite well, and I found a post on SAU where someone was using it for 263kw with 1.1Bar for over a year now and had been using BOSCH BOV's for 4 years. So for a cost effective solution I'm looking at a Bosch recirc BOV and that should hopefully control the boost a bit better and remove the flutters. The dips in the power curve are due to the auto transmission, the stall from the auto box and the dyno trying to slow it down. I've been told the effect of not having a BOV fitted isn't going to have much of an impact being that it's an auto. My driving style is a bit different though particularly with driving tip most of the time. I've asked that the tune be looked at a bit further as it was done in one afternoon and for my peace of mind I'd like it looked at, and that isn't going to be a problem. I just want to get the BOV sorted out first and possibly the coilpacks before it goes back in though. As for running the turbosmart single stage, i've been told that it's not going to a lot if anything as there's no predefined target for it to adjust to, simply just increasing or decreasing and emulating the actuator to an extent.. Anyways, one step at a time, hope to get the BOV sorted out fairly soon and see how it goes then. But in all it seems to be a combination of the DE Intake Plenum and Manifold, the auto box, and quite possibly lack of BOV that is giving it that sort of read out.

The turbosmart seems to be relatively simple to install... would these directions still apply for the R33 turbo? http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?...load&id=178 Thing is I don't have a boost gauge to check the boost level, and it would most likely need a retune, would it not? or not necessarily? I'd really want to do them both together though... just an expensive exercise if it turns out I really need a EBC. i've got a RB20 Actuator still supplied by mistake instead of a RB25 one, I still need to return. But I've heard that this will run higher boost again? About the Flyn BOV though?

Yeah very strange indeed...I'm trying not to get too disheartened at the moment. Budgets blown over, things haven't turned out exactly right...i'm sure that it can be sorted though...anything can be sorted with $$$ I'd pick up a boost controller for under $400 if I felt confident about installing it myself, along with the coilpacks when I get them. It's mainly the extra cost of fitting then retune as far as a EBC goes...coilpaks are damn expensive nuff said :S What would be the easiest most affordable preferably DIY way to get a BOV running on it the way it is now? Is it true about mounting a factory BOV onto that intercooler piping? Or should I buy a cheap aftermarket BOV like say one of the Flyn ones, or would I be best not to? I really don't know what the Flyn ones are like, but if it will be a easy affordable but reliable solution...

I'm fairly positive (will check later) that it's running straight of the actuator, no solenoid.. to give a run down no BOV as I didn't have a crossover pipe and the factory bov i had is apparently not quite suited to that alloy piping?? I want to get the factory plumback BOV running asap though. turbo is a R33 Series 2 turbo JJR Front & Dump with custom 3" mandrel catback & 3" Magnaflow hi-flow cat. Spark plugs were changed Injectors are R34 GTT NEO injectors Walbro GSS342 was installed as well Splitfires will be next up as it's had one failed coilpack, it's just such a big expense straight after all this though =S Dori suggested that since it's running straight of actuator and no BOV that's why the boost graph is probably erratic. The dips look to be between gear changes (auto/tiptronic box) and the closed loop means the turbo is slowing hence the power dip ( I believe ) So now I'm not sure whether to insist on having the turbo smart manual boost controller installed and see how it goes at controlling that boost, or whether to just go straight to an EBC. I'm fairly certain an EBC will smooth that out a lot, correct me if i'm wrong, and combined with a plumback BOV should really make the power delivery a lot more linear? Just doesn't feel right and not so great to drive... Problem is, we all know how expensive a EBC + tune is, and splitfires aren't cheap by any means either =S

I'm still having mixed opinions about the conversion...but I think my Dyno graph explains why. Been told that the dyno is used more for diagnosing and tuning and not so much power runs, known for reporting up to 20kw less than other dynos, so i'm not taking notice of the power at the moment, more the boost and power curve. My boost graph seems to be abnormal...the tuner thought it was the front wheel on the turbo but it's not, and was hesitant to want to put the turbosmart single stage on it, instead being best to opt for a EBC. Once I get a Plumback BOV sorted out it should also hopefully help as well and stop the flutters that I'm already very much over. Then another resonator or something to kill the drone... Anyways, here goes with the dyno graph, hoping someone can shed some light on the abnormalities....

Hi all Some parts leftover from turbo conversion, some new, some used. Turbosmart Boost Single Stage Boost Controller - $100 Bought this 2nd hand, haven't used it, going to go with an electronic boost controller later on instead. Needs wires and switch. Allows you to switch between stock boost or whatever boost you set it to. Same as this one except it's red not blue: http://www.modyourcar.com.au/turbosmart-si...ontroller-p5497 R34 25GT Fuel Injectors - $ Make an offer Top Feed Injectors to suit NEO Head. Removed for GTT injector upgrade for turbo. R34 25GT Fuel Pump - $ Make an offer Same above, removed to replace with a Walbro pump for turbo conversion. Turbo Dump Pipe Gasket and Front Pipe to Cat Gasket $15 posted Same as the ones supplied with the JJR Front/Dump Pipe, unused brand new. Wastegate Actuator Not sure how much this is worth, what it's for... it's smaller than the Skyline Actuator, has a rod that screws on, appears to be adjustable, I'll get pics up of it soon. Has numbers on it 445963-8 45126 04016 if they mean anything to anyone? Braided Line Kit $100 Bought this kit on Nissan Silvia. Still all in sealed packaging. One hose approx 33cm long end to end (incl. fitting). 8mm I.D. on the fitting Two hoses approx 65cm long (incl. fitting) 12mm I.D. on the fitting (bit hard to measure the length of the hose as it's packaged unopen) Assortment of fittings as per photos. I ended up using speed flow's instead as my lines ended up being custom and completely different. What you see is what you get, PM if unsure of anything. R34 GT Non-Turbo Exhaust manifold - Make an offer Removed for turbo manifold. Has heat shield. R34 25GT Sedan Exhaust - Make an offer Available from Slacks Creek, they're keeping it for about a week if that, then it's being scrapped. It's got the compliance cat welded on, so it's in one big piece Pick up during business hours from Coopers Plains area, or I can post . Postage extra except for the gaskets, they're small, light I can just throw them into a express envelope. Might have more things to add later on. Any questions ask here or PM. Cheers Nathan

Okay...now for some pictures..and hopefully some advice in regards to getting a BOV running. I'm hoping I'll be able to modify the NEO cover to fit with that piping, hopefully I won't have to trim too much off, but I think it will just look a lot neater. The intercooler piping kit as I've probably previously mentioned was pathetic so that's the best that could be done with it. Now I doubt a R34 Crossover pipe is going to fit without a bit of modifying...what I'm thinking though is if I were to run some sort of aftermarket BOV pipe after the silicon elbow, possibly having to cut down the intercooler piping a bit. Would something like this be suitable for mounting a factory R33 BOV on to? Basically then I'd just need that, an extra silicon joiner, and then it's a matter of plumbing it back in... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Dump-Valve-Turbo-Ad...p3286.m63.l1177 I don't particularly want to drive around with a closed loop set up for a long time, it flutters so soon due to the way it builds up boost very quickly and I don't particularly want that attention. I haven't had a particularly close look at the turbo inlet pipe, but I imagine this shouldn't be too much of an issue to plumb it back? Would it make any difference to the tune? Like enough to have to retune?

lol true...but the stuffing around though... Well she made it home okay...i'm too paranoid now lol Hopefully i'll be able to get splitfires relatively soon.