N-DAWG

Sorry, around $100 more than say superspark lol http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...mp;hl=coil+pack Cheapest i've found. Heard not so great things about superspark, and heard mixed things about the JJR ones...so i'm just gonna look at getting splitfires straight up.

Coil Pack 3 = Dead They threw in a coilpack from an R33 Series 2 in the meantime to help me out till I can get some Splitfires. For now i'm just gonna see how she goes, I don't want to go for too long a drive in a hurry, particularly with long weekend coming up n all, hopefully I won't have any more dead coilpacks in a hurry!

Yeah splitfires I think will be ther better way to go...spend bit extra now rather than more again later. I took it in this morning, it's 99% coilpacks, but they want to diagnose first just in case it's an injector, before I go and fork out on coilpacks. Coil packs seem to be fairly straight forward to swap, i've seen the DIY for them so at least I can do that myself. Ended up going with the R33 Series 2 Turbo, it's only running 7 psi, so it's definitely pushing a lot more power than before though! The boost graph was quite wavey though so no more boost till I get a EBC and probably a plumbackBOV, I think I'll be over having the flutters after a while lol But yeah the boost is there very quickly! Exhaust has a nice deep sound to it when i put the foot down, but for normal driving it's quite good not too loud, and if I get to my cruising speed around 60-70km/hr take foot of throttle she just rolls very very quietly! Just the flutters are obvious though unless I shift at 2k revs. I've got a tiptronic auto box. The intake plenum hasn't been modified, maybe something to look at later... for now I'd rather have been spending money on an EBC rather than coilpacks, guess I'll be trying to sell my unused parts quickly first. Costs add up very quickly when doing a conversion.

Yeah just done a search for coilpacks and found eleventybillion and one threads all with my car sounds like a WRX damn...more money lol Looking at Just Jap ones for $399...or should i spend the extra on super spark or splitfires? I've heard the justjap ones are as good... It will be interesting to see if it's still doing its WRX impersonation tomorrow morning lol And yes I definitely want to get a plumback system soon! The chatter sound is kinda cool in a way, yeah it gets the looks n all, but also not the looks I want. Well tomorrow morning I'll be taking it down to them for them to check it over as I said I would...then if it's coilpacks and they have reasonably priced ones in stock I'll just change them...otherwise it means ordering them. Is it safe to drive the way it is?

Got my Skyline back today! Man it feels different!! It's been tuned for 7PSi at the moment, the boost is doing something very weird...at first the tuner thought it was the front wheel but he checked it and it was fine...so a EBC is going to be next up in the future to be able to smooth that out and run bit more boost. The other thing is that without the factory crossover pipe, they weren't able to run the factory BOV, so it's running without one which whilst sounds good I still plan to plumb it back in with a blumback BOV. The tuner agrees that it's best to have a BOV, but seems to think it's safe to run it how it is... Took it for a fair bit of a drive, didn't really thrash it as such, still getting the feel for it...took it from slacks to mt gravatt around the block, up the lookout, then stopped on the side for a while car still running...and noticed it started idling strange, almost sounding like a rotor rev rev rev rev rev... and shaky... thought maybe it's just the way it is at idle, went to drive off, and still shaky and revs sounding almost like a WRX... Does this sound like coilpacks? Or maybe something not quite right with tuning? I called the workshop and they said to bring it in, they doubt it's the tune, but they said to bring it in to check it out... So now I've gotta wait it out till tomorrow morning now :S

Oil Pressure switch? Hi-Power Racing are sorting that out for me, I think they're relocating it or something? I'll confirm all the details with the way they done the oil n water lines when I pick it up this arvo...I hope it will be this arvo lol It's getting catback done this morning then it's on the rollers for tuning. Coincidentally it's my car's birthday today, had her for exactly a year now! Targa roof is pretty cool, though I got over it pretty quickly when I had my NX Coupe for 2 months lol Was a first car, affordable sporty SR20 run around What I liked though was that I could remove the inserts on the targa roof and use it like a sun roof

WOOOOO the fun begins

Like these plates? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GD3LLA-GTR-personal...A1%7C240%3A1318 Good luck to him selling them!

Yes definitely gotta factor in an ECU upgrade/piggy back on an R34, expensive exercise there. Allow $950+ Dyno Tuning (approx $400-600). I speak from experience right now as I've had a GReddy eManage fitted as part of my turbo upgrade. The R34 ECU can relearn simple things like exhaust upgrades or air filter...but throw cams into the mix and yeah tuning is going to be needed. Pretty sure you won't see the limits of the factory fuel pump and injectors though..someone confirm? btw..did you reset your ECU after the exhaust upgrade? If not, disconnect negative battery terminal, foot on the brake for 15-20 seconds, reconnect, start car, and let it relearn your driving style and adjust to the new exhaust. Don't forget to switch off the battery backup siren if you have one. The N/A Turbo is a great cost-effective option, isn't always the cheapest option though, at least if you want to use aftermarket front/dump pipes and front mount intercoolers and high flow pod filters...and you will definitely want to upgrade that exhaust piping again to something like 3". Also speaking from experience, things easily starting costing more here and there very quickly The bang per buck though on a N/A Turbo is considerably better when compared to keeping it N/A going for the big cams n all. Both options require a new ECU or Piggy Back ECU (fitting of a piggy back aint cheap, and the cost of a replacement unit like a PowerFC is expensive), and tuning which is expensive. Also note that if you have an auto box then a piggyback setup is pretty much the only way to go. Add up the cost of the parts for the cams/cam gears and lifters etc.. compare it to buying a mix of aftermarket/factory parts for a turbo. Then work out your labour bill, yes the turbo conversion is an expensive labour exercise, but you can't tell me that doing work on the engine internals isn't! You'll probably want to change your head gasket too if you want to seek higher compression and a stronger gasket. Can you see where things are heading cost wise? Don't forget you'll still be using N/A model brakes which I highly recommend upgrading if you're seeking bigger power like that of a turbo, and then suspension and handling and a good set of tyres willset you back a bit too. Since you've already done the 2 1/4" exhaust, I would either get a high flow panel filter or make a custom box and bracket in a pod filter with a cold air feed, a simple effective way to get more cooler air into the engine. Then spend money on things like suspension. BUT before doing all that, figure out what you want to do with your car, work out your costs and options if you keep it N/A, do the same if you were to go the N/A turbo route, compare it to selling and buying the turbo car if you want a turbo, and then go from there. All the options of getting more power out of a N/A Skyline are costly, just cause it's a Skyline doesn't mean it's going to be a powerhouse without some serious modifying.

Sounds like you have a fair amount of research still to do. 2 1/2" would have been a better size to go for for the exhaust. If you're going to do cams etc.. then sorry to say but 2 1/4" is going to be restrictive as 2.75" or even 3" would make better use of the cams since you're going to be able to flow a lot more air efficiently through the exhaust system. Generally you would want to start with an exhaust that's going to be substantial for your planned modifications, work up to extractors and high flow cat, the intake is probably the easiest part to do yourself, then later do the big things like bigger cams and cam gears, port polishing the head, and of course it reallly adds up quick if you want power out of an N/A. I suggest a good read of the following: How to get more power from an N/A http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html N/A power results thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...-E-t138169.html Also do a forum search on the N/A section for exhaust, get a good understanding of the exhaust characteristics on an N/A Skyline. Once you have a good understanding of all that, you'll be able to put the puzzle pieces together and see how everything will work out. After that ask questions and you'll find there's plenty of knowledgable people here that will guide you and answer your queries, but it really helps to understand the N/A Skyline first, otherwise you'll just be doing little mods here and there that may not go together as well as they could/should, and ultimately probably cost more money. Hope that helps...

Absolutely! You would probably want to look at upgrading to a larger throttle body as well. Afterall, if you've increased the flow with exhaust and bigger cams, then increasing the size of the throttle body will allow more air into the plenum. Remember Air + Fuel + Combustion = Power. With a turbo it's easy to force air in, but the only way you're going to get more into the N/A motor is to make every part breathe better.

The key to N/A performance is alleviating restrictions and getting things flowing optimally. You would want to look at high flowing extractors/cat/catback exhaust and a good flowing cold air intake to get the air in and out of the engine quickly, as a minimum really to see benefit in the cams.

YES!!!! I do!! Sending PM

Sounds about right for the service, it is an expensive service, a lot of work involved. Are you in Brisbane at all? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ec-t225778.html

Cam gears should be cross compatible I believe...at least they all seem to be listed as being suitable for RB20/25/26 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=340&page=1 Price varies from around $125 per cam gear to around $329. Just remember to take into consideration variable timing if you change the intake cam gear. Also stay clear of the cheap ones you see floating around eBay! There's a thread somewhere on which eBay parts to stay away from. Also if you haven't already bought them, it's a good idea to do your idler and tensioner pulleys and also seals as well when changing the belt over. The timing belt is a big job on the RB engines so while they're in that part of the car you'd be nuts not to do them also.

If he can handle driving a low compression N/A for so long... it will be like turbo lag without the boost and quite humiliating when your car struggles to get of the line As been mentioned before, depends how they classify the car even without a turbo, and also most State's rules are something along the lines of "a vehicle that has had its performance modified" which could really mean having a turbo removed technically... For the cost of de-turboing a car now, and then reverting it back later (lets not forget about the way the ECU is probably going to see the car without a turbo...) he'd be better off buying a N/A now and doing the bolt-on turbo conversion later, or engine swap later, or change the car later. If he wants to drive an even slower skyline around, he might as well by an econobox till he's on his open licence unless he absolutely must have a Skyline purely for the looks and status. On another note though, if one was to do the turbo removal...how much of a difference would it make if the car was run with a more restrictive exhaust? My reasoning behind this question is that if too large an exhaust on an N/A Skyline results in less power down low, but more top end power due to decreased volumetric efficiency...would there be any "significant" difference running a smaller restrictive diameter exhaust on a low compression N/A Skyline? At least to the point where it became bearable to drive? What difference would this make on wear n tear on the engine and fuel economy? Will the ECU be able to self learn the new set up?

Done the same conversion last month on my R34 Sedan. You don't "need" to change the master cylinder, but it's a good idea if you have one to do so, so that you get the correct brake bias. I'm not 100% sure on the brakes ont he R34 N/A Coupe, my sedan had 280mm front and 265mm rear, upgraded to 297 front and 297 rear. I THINK the N/A Coupe is different. Someone posted once before saying they're the same as the R33 GTS but 5 stud.. so may need to verify. The guy I bought my R33 GTSt brakes from had the master cylinder to suit so I changed it also. If you're going to flush the brake system you might as well do master cylinder if you have the matching one. Also if you don't have brake hoses for the R33 GTSt brakes, you'll need them also as the factory ones on the N/A are a bit different with the way they connect to the caliper. Good idea to get the ADR approved braided hoses from Brakewest in the Group Buy, or go direct. Goran from Brakewest is really helpful, I took photos and measured up the lines on my R34 Sedan and he has made them to suit the R33 GTSt brakes. They should be pretty much the same for the Coupe... Also the workshop that done my brakes ended up modifying my existing brakes to fit the R33 GTSt calipers and rotors and didn't have to use the R33 hubs/uprights. There are a pair for sale on eBay at the moment though (not mine, they already sold, no idea who's selling the ones listed at the moment) if you wish to do bolt on.

What they said ^^^ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hl=remove+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...hl=remove+turbo

lol I'll try take a natural looking photo of the parkers when I get my car back hopefully tomorrow night Trust me, if it was as blue as it looks in taht pic they'd be straight out...aint gonna be pulled up for something like parkers =/

Cris beat me to it...pleeenty of info in that thread! Also there's power results threads too. As been said above, N/A means a lot of money on a lot of mods to get little gain per dollar spent when compared to forced induction. Not saying the other path is cheap, but just be prepared to spend a lot to get any considerable gains.

Hey bud thanks for the reply, ended up getting one from local wreckers as I needed it straight away...thanks anyways

Hey mate...figure you want all these in one go, but if not, I'll have non-turbo injectors for sale after my turbos done this week if these are suitable for you.

Hey thanks for the offer, a lot more than what I'm looking at though, good luck with selling mate! I'm kicking myself as to why I didn't buy any of the <$300 jap catbacks that I had the chance to get before >_>

PM Sent R33 Actuator

They're looking at taking the water feed from the intake hose..or something like that on mine. They didn't like the idea of running of the heater hose. That doesn't sound too reliable there J3TR33, I'd hate to be cruising with heater on and that happens! Then again I don't think i've ever had to use the heater in the car up here in Brisbane lol