N-DAWG

Some nice results here guys! I should have my result up by end of next week I'll only be using an R33 Turbo though, but maybe further down the track I might look at a bigger turbo like you've done Adam.

Cats still for sale? I need a 3" Hi Flow for my project. PM me

Indeed they are They make for a great daily too, 4 Doors come in very handy for that, specially if you're taking friends out in the car you can still fit 4-5 people comfortably!

I'm gonna steal your rims!!! That looks awesome man, side skirts will really complete that nicely So you decided to fit the exhaust before doing the turbo aye?

Photos:

Very clean indeed! I have to agree on the front bar too, however, some matching sideskirts will help that a bit. Very nice though.

no they are not the same. RB25DE = high compression RB25DET = low compression. The low compression is made up for by boost via the turbo. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...l&p=4306941 Simply bolting on a turbo to the RB25DE will not run properly and kill it very quickly. An RB25DE+t can be done though with the right parts, the right engine management that can handle fuel and ignition timing, and good tuning, and of course supporting mods such as fuel pump and injectors to meet the new demands, and of course keeping the boost level at a safe limit. The hardest part is going to be whether you can do the labour, or paying a workshop to do it, and of course finding a workshop who will not only do the labour but will be willing to tune it. A fair few workshops refused to do it, or refused to tune such a set up. If you do it, make sure the tuner is confident with it. I think it will be wise for you to have a read through the How To Turbo N/A Skyline thread. What I said above is a very very condensed version. It will also be good to look at the differences between an RB25DE and RB25DET engine. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html In regards to an LS1, this has been done on a number of S13's and a quick google shows that there's R34's that have had the LS1 treatment. There was a 320kw LS1 powered S13 in HPI Magazine issue 83. Could always do a twin turbo LS1 http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=61035 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Nissan-...1-V8_169208.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Nissan-...-with_95344.htm

*bump* I need these gone!! $350 the lot pick up Can arrange postage at buyers expense.

Still for sale. Will sell for $80 pick up for both sub and box! I'd really like to get a 12 or pair of 12s relatively soon and don't have room to keep this lying around.

Nice John some impressive power there for a DE+t , good to see more power results and looking forward to the new dyno sheet I'm interested as to what has been done to the plenum and if the modification was done to begin with, or after the conversion, mainly to see the difference made power wise.

Brake West have the measurements for the R34 25GT Sedan if anyone else needs them. I ended up getting mine custom made direct from brakewest to suit R33 GTSt Brakes. Great quality lines, good price, good service, very quick!

Shane beat me to mentioning the Autech S15.. I read about it in a magazine some months ago (I think it was the HPI Magazine?) and the power result worked out to be around the same as the turbo model with the smooth power delivery of the N/A motor. Problem is that there's clearly more gains to be had in modifying a Turbocharged 200SX, particularly when the Autech is already modified to get that sort of power from the N/A motor. I think the Autech was also lighter?

In that case 2.75" is probably going to be the best compromise between the two. To be honest though, you would probably be better off going with 2.5" now, and if you do turbocharge later sell that exhaust and upgrade later on, which shouldn't be too hard with the number of R33 N/A's coming on the scene. Don't forget the aftermarket front and dump pipes generally suit 3" or greater as well, so at least your exhaust system will be more consistent going 3" later on with the turbo, not to mention bolt on for the most part too if you use a second hand jap exhaust. How long are you looking before doing the turbo? If it's only going to be 6-12months then just hang in there with the stock system. If it's not going to be for a couple of years or so, then if it was me, 2.5" and sell and upgrade to 3" later. That's my opinion.

2.5" might be a bit restrictive on a de+t. iirc, Dan used the stock exhaust before later upgrading to 2.75" with good results. 3" would be better as there will be enough air flow to fill the exhaust piping, and of course you want to get the exhaust out of the turbo as quick as possible. I have read somewhere (can't remember if it was on SAU) where someone was getting a bit of compressor surge with the stock piping, which disappeared after upgrading the exhaust. There could be a number of variables causing that though. Why would you be wanting to use a 2.5"? Is it just a question of how it would go, or have you got a 2.5" exhaust system now with a view to turbo? Or looking at upgrading exhaust now but have it useable afterwards with a turbo? You probably shouldn't have too much trouble selling a good 2.5" catback later on to other N/A skyline owners if it's for that reason, though you'd be best to upgrade closer to a 3" to begin with whilst doing the de+t conversion.

If you're just after the looks and sound, then just get a canon stuck on the end. You'll see pretty much no gain except in the amount of attention you get. To do it properly: 2.5" exhaust piping from the cat back. The cat is near the front end of the car after the extractors and filters out emissions. From there to the back rear tail pipe/muffler is commonly known as the cat-back. 2.25" is the smallest you would want to go and will give you more response but lose in the top end. 3" is generally a bit big for an N/A Skyline due to volumetric efficiency (the ability for the exhaust gases to fill the piping). Mind you there will be more top end power to be gained with a 3" catback, but you will lose down in the low end unless you're revving the car out a lot between every gear change. 2.5" is going to be the best all round for you. Cost will vary between Mandrel bend and press bent (mandrel bend retains the pipe diameter, press bend crushes the pipe). A resonator helps to muffle the noise and prevent the common droning sound. They also help bring the car in line with EPA sound levels. A loud exhaust is fun at first, then it becomes an annoyance and attracts too much wrong attention. My advice would be to go down to your local reputable exhaust shop (if you give us a location plenty of people here should be able to steer you in the right direction) and discuss with them your needs. Meanwhile, this topic has been covered countless times! Do a search and you shall find. Like you said you don't have much idea about exhaust systems. Here's a few links to get you started: http://news.carjunky.com/how_stuff_works/t...rks_ac381.shtml http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-exhaust-...ons-channel.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm http://www.mondaymorningmechanic.com/exhaust-system.jpg http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm Once you understand the components in that 4th link and what each components function is...then things like exhaust efficiency, catback and other terms will make more sense. I do suggest using forum search, or even just looking at page 3 of the topics in this N/A section...the Exhaust topic was done to pieces back then

Here's a bit of reading on the GT-V for you: http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~skyworks/gtv_specs.html Personally I would go for the GT-V for the turbo brakes and other handling features. Nissan failed at N/A brakes, and having the bigger R34 4 and 2 pot calipers with bigger rotors from the factory is certainly worth while.

Hey everyone Lately I've been seeing more people looking at doing the DE+t conversions, and more that have done so successfully with quite impressive results. The way things are going I expect there'll be more DE+t's in the future with power restrictions and all. The power results of forced induction on a DET engine aren't exactly comparable to a DE+t. High compression amongst other things make for different torque/power gains. So I've decided that in addition to the N/A Power Results thread, to have a DE+t Power Results thread for those with N/A Skylines who travelled the path less taken. This should also help give a comparison to those who are deciding between all out N/A performance, or doing the +t Turbo Conversion, and as such I have added a cost component to the layout. Please try to keep layout to the following example: Model - R34 25GT Engine - RB25DE Modifications / Parts Used - R33 S2 Turbo, Factory Manifold, R34 GTT Injectors, HKS Super Dragger Catback, etc... Engine Management Used - eManage Blue with optional Injector and Ignition Harnesses Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98 Boost Used - 7 PSI Dyno Tune Results - KW/HP @ RPM Misc- Other Details, perhaps reason for using certain parts, or other things to elaborate. Costs - Parts: $xxxx.xx Labour: $xxxx.xx Tuning: $XXX.XX Dyno Graph A dyno graph will help give a visual of the power curve that a DE+t engine has; and also not all dyno's are the same, so it will help give a comparison amongst Dyno's used. Please keep chit chat to a minimum, there is already a "How to turbo your N/A Skyline" thread that 666DAN started right here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html Please only results from turbocharging a Naturally Aspirated skyline engine. Posting results of a DET engine transplant in an N/A shell defeats the purpose of the thread Cheers Nathan

I stand corrected..I didn't realise R33 GTSt had 16s.. I assumed they were 17" like the R34 GT to GTT comparison. Still the issue of new wheels remains anyways if one is to do the 5 stud conversion.

If you do put bigger cams in then what Josh said really isn't too bad an idea, particularly if you don't want to do the turbo conversion till a year or so, but want more power now. However if you don't do the cams, then bigger injectors are fairly pointless till there's a need for them, and a 3" catback is going to lower the performance down low and in the mid-range due to the volumetric efficiency. With that said though, the cost of the cam upgrade being spent on the turbo conversion itself will be more worth it IMO, or better still use the money spent on cams upgrading the brakes. I wouldn't overlook brakes on a high performance / turbocharged car. I just recently upgraded my brakes to GTSt (front & rear), complete with braided lines and some good fluid. I plan to swap the standard used rotors on the front with slotteds and good pads soon though, well worth it in my opinion...Nissan weren't too generous with N/A skyline brakes. If you're looking to do a 5 stud conversion, I have a front pair R33 GTSt hubs/uprights if you're interested. Of course that means changing wheels on an R33 GTS, though looking at the clearance on my R34 with 18s, I don't know that the stock 16s will clear GTSt calipers?

Samon already said what I have to say lol Unless you're going to go all the way with it and increase compression etc... you're going to hit the ceiling pretty quickly on an RB25DE and your wallets going to be a whole lot lighter in comparison to doing a DE+t, particularly when you compare the gains to be had. Now first up, cost is going to change considerably depending on whether you install yourself or take it to a workshop. You should be able to pick up a eManage Blue for less than that, I got mine private sale but new for $320...still need to add your optional harnesses if you need them. For a DE+t obviously you need the optional ignition and fuel (allow $140 there), and then the ignition signal adaptor is around $30 I think from perfectrun, you'll need that if you're using the R34 Neo Engine. Depending on where you live, some tuners do the Greddy Blue installed for a pretty good price. If you're going to have it installed for you allow a few hundred bucks or so there. Allow up to $400 for a good tuner, depends how many hours of tuning you need though. If you're looking for a nice big power figure, particularly with bigger cams and all, maybe look at a 2.75" or even 3" catback, or opt for lower top end but better bottom/mid range. Price will vary depending on materials used, mandrel bends etc.. $400-600 for a custom mandrel bend I imagine is what you'd expect? Depends on where you go. You can quite often pick up a second hand 3" Mandrel Bend Jap exhaust for around $250 odd or less if you keep an eye out though. Extractors you've got a few options: Custom made with tuned lengths and HPC Coating, very pricey! Someone clarify the costs but up to a grand I think shoudl be expected. Coby Extractors from Parts Co NZ or DKNE Extractors: Allow around $450-480 for extractors plus shipping (unless prices have changed), + $280ish for HPC Coating inside out, then fitting. Add extra if you're going bolt on and need the cat connector on them. Of course you could use heat wrap and corrode your extractors...not really worth it..do it once do it right. Of course after that you'd want a high flow cat, plenty of hi flowing ones for under $200. So allow very easily up to $1500 for exhaust with extractors. You could probably save a bit on your CAI by making one yourself, plus you'll find that the off-the-shelf boxes are to suit DET setups. Spark plugs I"m not sure if they'll need to be regapped, if so might as well throw in some new ones. I'm not sure about fuel requirements with this sort of set up...if the stock pump and injectors can't keep up, then you'll be looking at say a Walbro GSS342 pump and some GTSt or GTT injectors depending on whether you have the NEO engine. Neo heads use top feed, but different to GTR injectors. Allow up to $300 there. If you're going to turbocharge down the track....I would just do that to begin with. Extractors are a big chunk of that budget alone, and unless you can recover the dollars spent later on, they're useless once you drop in a turbo. Also have a look through the power results thread, see what mods people have done to get different power results. The N/A path is an expensive one when aiming for big power.

*BUMP* Will take $300 for front rotors/calipers/pads/lines $180 for uprights/hubs $80 for rears with lines $50 for master cylinder or $550 for the whole lot pickup.

On the R34 Neo engine I'm pretty sure I've read that the spot is blanked out..whether that means blanking bolt or just nothing i'm not entirely sure now.. Dan will be able to confirm this.

As you said, if it blows...and you'd have to be running stupid boost or flogging the balls off it at every intersection for that to happen! Using a DET engine of course means not having to tap in oil lines in the engine, but if you're confident with doing it then yeah go for it. If you do the bolt on, you'll be swapping everything else over from the GTStanyway, so only difference is you'll have a more responsive turbocharged engine, the gearbox and all handle the turbo conversion better than a R33 GTS with a bolt on job as it's designed for a turbo car. I see a number of possibilities too with this scenario...like Tezzah said, keep the engine spare and possibly not need it? or you could sell the engine to fund mods/recoupe the expense of the conversion. Or budget permitting, while you have an accessible engine, do an engine rebuild! You can take your sweet time with it not having to deal with having a car off the road, meanwhile everything else will already be there like exhaust piping etc when you're ready to swap the engine over. At least you'll then have had a DET engine to start with for the rebuild and dropping in high compression forged pistons and everything else that goes with a rebuild, you can still keep your high compression and have one mean RB25DET!

The car shouldn't really see any difference...it's just in a new shell in the end really.

Somewhat...I still love the R34 2 door, but I have to agree that the R34 does look awesome in 4 door! Something different as well, not to mention practical when it comes to passengers!