N-DAWG

*awaits Governments new plan to fill this $30M dollar hole in the budget that the cameras were supposedly going to fix*

Yeah that would of been me. I've still got the QLD Plates at the moment and SAUQLD stickers on the rear quarter windows

Spotted a white R35 GTR this morning filling up at BP Fairy Meadow

Good to know I'm suprised they're not putting them on the intersections through Springhill Rd and Masters Rd

We need more councils like that.. I like how they also say we need to "fix" the black spots, have more police visibility and improve education. There's your recipe for fixing the problem. Oh but the problem is what's generating revenue... I suppose we can't do that now, instead just capitalise on the problem http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw-...i-1225947500093

signed

That Purple GTR is HAWT! I think I've spotted you a couple of times at Westfield Warrawong car park... very nice indeed!

Hey guys, typically a couple of things came up today that I can't quite get out off... Will still try to get to Austi later on at least depending on time. Enjoy everyone, stay safe!

I've got a Kicker Monobloc ZX400.1 Class D Amp. Box is a bit rough as its been in storage and moving, but the amp is brand new unused but purchased around a year ago from JB HiFi at Gold Coast. I bought it along with a Kicker Comp Dual Voice Coil Sub to replace my existing sub and amp; but turns out only the sub was dead and the current amp I have runs it fine. Installing this one means new 4 gauge power cables, new fuses and more money that I don't have right now. If you're interested PM me Specs here: http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers Pics attached in this post. Note this is RMS Power not an overstated peak power rating. You can run two 4 ohm subs of this amp and bridge it down to 2ohms stable. Comes with a remote bass level control as well that you can mount under the dash or wherever it fits really.

Anyone still up for a pre-meet in Wollongong for the drive to the starting point? Northgate Maccas seems to be an ideal start point, close to Mt Ousley Road.

Spotted a white R33 this morning turning into Bluescope at Port Kembla

oops just realised I posted in this thread instead of the spotted thread

Spotted a white R33 turning into BHP Port Kembla this morning on my way to work

The Auto Shift Logic is in the ECU. Best options are a GT or GTT ECU with a Piggy Back such as a GReddy eManage. There was an SAUNSW Member that had a GTT with an RB30/26 set up running a standalone and I think an HKS F-Con? I can't remember the exact details, but it worked, but I've heard with HKS that you need an authorised HKS Dealer to tune their gear? Anyways, it worked but would have been a more complicated and expensive way of getting around the Auto situation. Note that GTT ECU will also be looking for sensors that the RB25DE NEO doesn't have, and vice versa the RB25DE NEO will be trying to communicate with sensors that the RB25DET NEO doesn't have. I'm sure there's ways around this though.

Sounds great! Any pre-meets in Wollongong heading to Kirrawee?

True, but there's no denying that a lot of speed traps are set up intentionally to raise revenue. I'm not sure about here, but in QLD they're notorious for the way they set up mobile cameras now.. steep decents around curves are their favourite, or behind bushes with a sign parallel to the road virtually unreadable by motorists. If they're set up in a way to encourage motorists to slow down, as opposed to simply maximising revenue then I don't see an issue. There are a lot of spots where I think fixed cameras need to be to ensure no one speeds through the areas, but that won't make money. The NSW Government said it themselves that the mobile cameras were brought about to close up a 30million dollar gap in the budget where fixed speed cameras weren't making money. I don't agree in use of speed radar detectors, there should be no reason for any anti-radar devices. Putting this money into repairing dodgey roads would be the first point of reducing road accidents IMO. More police patrolling the roads instead of sitting in mobile speed vans would be the next step to encouraging safer driving on the roads. Of course this is a double-edged sword, particularly for drivers of modified sports cars, but lets face it, police presence on the roads discourages people from speeding and driving in a negligent manner... not a chance that they could get caught by a hidden camera and meanwhile it doesn't stop a fatality from occuring...

Nice build Aggroman! What was the limit of the GTT Injectors? or did you go straight to 600CC's? I'm running a R33 Turbo mainly to keep things in budget and it's still going so I won't bother changing it till it needs changing, that way I can save a bit more, plus I need cash for Blue Slips and 1 year rego later this year to tfr to NSW, so the closer to factory the better for now lol 200RWKW on 7PSI with a factory turbo? I don't think you'll achieve that... you'll be wanting to look at 10PSI onwards. Of course many other factors can alter the power output, including the dyno itself. I think you'll find with a GTT Turbo and that set up you'll get around 180 give or take a bit if you up the boost a bit more from 7PSI. I found, at least in the auto box, the difference between 7PSI and 10PSI is very noticeable! As for the induction sound, yes quite loud and noticeable with the pod, even with the pod-box, primarily cause of the 10:1 compression causing the turbo to spool so quick. at around 2000RPM cruising in 4th on the auto I can achieve reasonably high boost and induction sound in a second. I'd actually like to look at a larger turbo in the hope of moving the spool up point further up in the rev range and also so I have a fatter mid-range. If you want a panel filter your biggest issue will be piping. If you go with a SMIC you'll be fine I suppose, but if you want a FMIC unless it has same side return pipe then it won't go with the airbox. A FMIC is a must (In My Opinion) if you're looking at that power level, and if you want future upgradability and running higher boost levels. Keep the temps down is the key to a successful N/A+t and a FMIC will ensure it gets cooler air. I also found the piping on the charcoal canister to be different on the R34 GT and the pipe out the bottom fouls on the Just Jap air boxes, should you go for a boxed pod filter set up. As for the oil line, does yours have a blanking bolt on the block like the R33's? Most N/A's don't have this and it needs to be tapped, or taken from another source. I'm fairly sure mine was T-Pieced of the pressure switch... I never really looked properly into how it was done, but oil pressure runs fine and there was no need to tap the block. Don't tap the block without taking the engine out either unless you're willing to risk the damage... you'll find most reputable mechanics won't even consider doing that. As for water lines, some take it of the heater hose, in my case it was taken from the intake manifold. Make sure you heat wrap those hoses as well, even if going braided lines. Also the lines will need to be custom, or extended off the factory ones. Speaking of oil and water lines, while you're at it get yourself an oil cooler! Particularly with the NEO's, N/A+t's can see your oil temps soaring in the summer heat and not drop back down in a hurry. I went with a Just Jap Kit, though if you're paying a mechanic then get a reputable Japanese Kit like GReddy, HKS etc.. to ensure a less painful fitment and therefore a cheaper labour bill. I've seen a 10-30 degrees celcius improvement, varying to weather conditions and driving style. On the SAUQLD Charity Cruise last year, one of the hottest days of the year and a long drive, my oil temps got to around 130c. If for whatever reason you can't source the factory heat shields, ACL HeatShield Material is amazing stuff!! I didn't have the heatshield for my turbo and manifold, and heatsoak after returning to the main road from the motorway was ridiculous! the car was sluggish and heatsoak really took its toll. After boxing up the pod, making a heatshield out of moldable ACL Heatshield material covering the manifold and the turbo, the heatsoak issue pretty much is gone! The silicon intake elbow into the throttle body used to be WAY too hot to even touch, now after driving its warm but I can hold my hand on it without any problems. Just something to consider, and while you've got the manifold on hand it might be worth molding ACL material to that same design to start with as it's great stuff! WYTSKY has a good DIY on making your own Pod Filter enclosure if you decide to go that way, and this could be a better option than a justjap air box where R34 GT's are concerned. I'm yet to do his DIY with the Cold Air Induction, but I'll want to get that done before summer. That will further stave off hot air under the engine bay of the already hot running NEO engine, particularly now with a turbo on board. The mod list you've posted is a good start to enable us to help you, but definitely plan ahead if you're looking beyond 200RWKW as before long other issues will also come into play like the factory AFM vs a Z32AFM, or an MAP based system. From what I recall the EMU will support MAP. Keep asking questions in this thread, there's a decent number of us that have successfully done the N/A+t conversions on RB25DE's and NEO DE's, all at different power levels, factory and aftermarket parts. There's a lot of help to be had in this forum.

http://blog.trapster.com/2009/11/04/police-radar-laser/ Trapster just posted this on FB about 5 minutes ago, pretty much sums up the different types of Radar and Laser used by Police, though based in the US.

GTV? Your almost there! Might as well convert it or engine swap. The hardest part is finding a tuner than so much a mechanic to carry out the conversion as a lot of tuners don't like touching N/A+t's. This will also limit to an extent the ECU used as some tuners are fussy as to what they use. I know I had trouble finding a mechanic/tuner who would do an N/A+t tune, and specially with one well-known mechanic/tuner who further didn't want to run with the GReddy ECU. Is your car Auto/Manual? Manual will give you more options for ECU, otherwise you're more or less limited to a piggy back style ECU. You could look at sourcing a GTT ECU and Nistune. I think that's what Dori34 is looking at doing with his rebuild. Option1Garage put a RB25DE NEO in their Silvia 180SX with a GTT ECU, GTT Injectors and a rising rate fuel pressure reg with good results. Keeping a GTT ECU will also help you with retaining the stock ECU. Just check if the gearbox is from the GTT model as I'm not sure if the GTV has the stronger box... if not you may want to invest in the near future in replacing or rebuilding the gearbox. I learned this the hard way, but now I have a very quick shifting Tiptronic box with Heavy Duty Kevlar Internals. Quite expensive though, but something to consider when deciding how much power you want to put through it initially as well as the health of the current gearbox. To answer your question on the cost of the conversion; this can vary greatly depending on what you want out of the car for a start, and how far you want to take it in the future. A few examples of what will change the cost substantially either way: Factory Second Hand Turbocharger vs Aftermarket Turbocharger GTT Injectors vs Aftermarket Hi-Flow Injectors Factory exhaust piping (front/dump, catback), second hand aftermarket exhaust, brand new aftermarket exhaust Standalone ECU (eg Apexi PowerFC + Tune) vs Piggy Back ECU (eg GReddy EMU). One costs more but replaces the current ECU, the other may not cost as much (generally) but requires labour time to wire up and then in some cases optional harnesses. Things can balance out here quite easily. Electronic Boost Controller vs Bleed Valve Boost Controller vs Running straight of the wastegate actuator. You can get around 10PSI with an RB20 Actuator, or 7PSI of the RB25 Actuator. Bleed Valve lets you adjust this, but not with as much control as an Electronic Type which can often cost up to 3 times as much more for say a Profec B Spec II. That's just a few items that can make a big difference to your budget. Of course there's going to be power limitations with the RB25DE NEO, at least when retaining reliability. If you're able to source an RB25DET NEO with wiring and ECU, then an engine swap in a GTV could be an attraction option. From there just do your usual bolt-on modifications such as intake, exhaust, FMIC, add a boost controller and Nistune the ECU and you'll get good reliable power with room to make more out of the stock engine. However, if N/A+t with responsive power is your thing then there's no reason really not to go for an N/A+t conversion unless of course if your expectations power wise are beyond that of the N/A+t. Weigh up the costs between converting taking into account both parts and labour which can add up VERY quickly and vary greatly from workshop to workshop, then decide which is the better way to go. Also a lot of Bolt On mods can be easily done yourself which can save quite a bit.

Spotted a white R34 a couple of times around Wollongong Harbour and CBD last night, nice ride!

Back in the Gong and lovin it! Though I really forgot what the car scene/car taste was like around here

Seen plenty of GTT's around Gong since moving back, a few around the Harbour on Saturday and today, even saw a yellow R34 GTT with Learner Plates

Spotted an R32 and a couple of yellow R34's around Gong Beach yesterday

Sold to TJ33 today!

Spotted an SAU guy at Capalaba BP in the White R31 IMP31 iirc Spotted TJ33 picking up my chairs today