N-DAWG

Spotted the Just Jap R35 GTR fueling up at Gymea yesterday on my way to the airport

Dori... Forgies now?

If you want the best of both worlds, responsiveness, and boosted power without going nuts, then GT+t isn't a bad way to go. If you keep things to around 7PSI you won't have too many issues with supporting mods, and most of it can be done without spending too much and using factory parts. If you want to start pushing higher boost levels 10+ then you start looking at gearbox, moreso on the brakes though with 7PSI you'd want to do that anyways, and the list can go on.

I think it's more to do with the AFM measuring air flowing into the intake, the ECU then making adjustments accordingly, and then a portion of that air is vented to atmosphere, but the ECU still thinks it's in the loop. The alternative being a MAP Sensor so the ECU can see the drop in Manifold Air Pressure. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain that's what causes the issues associated with Atmo BOV's. The other issue with Atmo BOV's of course is that it's venting emissions that haven't passed through the cat converter therefore making them a defectable modification.

NSW licence for 5 years is around $151... sucks that QLD is raising the price on everything motor related... that's what happens when state governments get the taste of money and become greedy! I just renewed mine for 5 years.. perfect timing before moving back to NSW in a few months lol Anywho, while I'm still an official QLD Resident, petition signed!

Cheers Michael I ended up finding it that time, mixed feelings about it though.. they were nice and all like you said, but it's probably more cost effective and better result washing it at the freedom car wash and then polishing it yourself.. not to mention you can use the polish you want, number of coats you want etc.. I've been using Mother's along with the sealing finish coat with good results...when I'm bothered to polish it lol Lately I've been lazy and using the autowash on Mt Gravatt Capalaba Road next to the servo. If you go when there's people working there, for $20 they go over the wheels for you, then the auto wash which is "brushless" does a pretty damn good job at removing all the dirt and junk off the car (I know this as I used it last night and the dirt that was all sticky and building up really thick just came off) and the air blowers dry the car really well. The $20 treatment also does an underbody wash and they go over the car with the chamois for you too. It's pretty much ready for polishing after that

I see.. I'll be honest when it comes to oil feeds/drains etc.. i'm not so knowledgeable, pretty much relying on what I can recall from my conversion. ps. nice X-Trail, the build link in your sig doesn't seem to be working though

Quoting Dori: oil feed; ran a braided line to oil pressure side & tee'd into that oil return: on the r34 de, theres blank mark but with r33 there shud be a bolt which u can remove. however on the r34 de theres the vct return which is a blanking bolt so i used that. *end quote* That's for an R34 but may be similar?

I'm pretty sure Dori's mechanic done the same thing as mine did... I'll ask him and hopefully that will help for you.

You're "altering the performance of a vehicle" by performing an "engine modification". That and the vehicle is still a GTS"t". In short, it's not going to be legal, at least not without spending a lot of money. Also good luck convincing a Police Officer that your GTSt is non-turbo when, and I do generalise here, a lot of them don't know what they're looking for and in some cases are convinced that a GTS is turbocharged and will try and find the turbocharger. Proving that it's not will simply mean telling them that you modified the car to be non-turbo and then expect defects for an non-engineered engine mod, and possible fines for driving a modified vehicle even if the car is equal to or lower than the performance of a GTS. My suggestion: 1. Buy a GTS, keep it fairly standard and clean till you're off your P's then buy a GTSt or GTT. 2. Buy a GTS, upgrade suspension with coilovers or lowered springs, whiteline sway bars, wide wheels with good tyres (even Kumho KU31's are a respectable budget performance tyre), hi-flow panel filter. Learn to get the most out of driving it in its N/A form, do other supporting upgrades along the way like 5 Stud GTSt Brake Upgrade, gearbox, LSD.. then when you're off your P's buy a a DET with loom and drop that in, or do a DE+t Conversion. In fact, buy an R33 GTS, then down the track buy an R33 GTSt Front-Cut Complete with Gearbox, wiring loom and ECU if possible, brakes/hub assembly, and wiring loom etc... This way you can do your handling upgrades like the suspension, brakes, wheels and tyres while you're on your P's, all you'll need to do is source 5 stud hubs and brakes for the rear, then when you're off your P's drop in the RB25DET, wire it up, use the stock ECU to get you going or run an aftermarket ECU such as a PowerFC, or piggy back with a GReddy EMU (good if you don't have the GTSt ECU), or possibly Nistune? (someone confirm if you can Nistune the GTS and GTSt ECU's) and then yeah you'll be set to go! Then sell the old engine, you might not get a lot for it unless someone wants it to to a rebuild or a DE+t set up in a Silvia for example... but yeah, buying an R33 GTS and a half-cut would get you the best of both worlds till you're off your P's. OR just buy and sell and buy again

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out. I'm not sure on whether you can remove the sump without the engine coming out.. i'm sure if that were possible my mechanic would have done that? I doubt there's that much difference in that respect between an R33 and R34. From what I understood, the oil return on the R33 block had a blanking bolt and only the R34 had a provision for where it "would" be on a DET... I THINK Dori's engine had the bolt though? Anyways, I'll leave it to a couple of the R33 guys to give their advice on how they handled the oil return on the RB25DE but it's best not to risk just tapping the block without pulling the engine.

There was someone on this forum with an orange R34 4 Door with an SR20DET. The idea was that the SR20's could pull a lot of power with a smaller (2litre) engine which also reduced the weight and improved weight distribution. I'm not sure how this compares to an RB20DET? One thing for sure is that you'll save on injectors, sparks, coilpacks etc.. with there only being 4 instead of 6. If you were going to go to the effort of an engine swap, at leaste do it once do it right and put a larger displacement RB25 engine in, or why not turbocharge the RB25DE NEO?

If it's a standard in-tank replacement it would be a Walbro GSS342 intake pump. Should be good 550horse, flows 255 LPH and direct replacement.

Hi Power Racing tuned my eManage Blue with my DE+t Conversion back in January 09. They're happy doing GReddy eManage, I believe they do other ECU's as well.

LOL nice one!

Hey mate, sorry I read the msg on my phone and thought I'd replied :S I have one guy who is looking at buying both together, just waiting on final confirmation. If that falls through I'll send you a PM you're only after the shocks though yes? I really want to sell both together, unless you know someone who wants the springs...

Spotted a Red 4 Door R34 GTT at Alex Hills Shops yesterday and the night before. Nice clean ride, good to see another neat 4 door

*bump* Suspension is off the car, will try get photos done today/tonight

I was about to say send Dori a PM, but he's already posted up lol Good luck with the DE+t, looking forward to seeing the results

Thanks Dori ps. your not at work today? Mods, I've posted this up in the FS section now. Price Drop and new link below: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...in-t322908.html This one can be locked now to avoid confusion Cheers

I've been bitten by the mod-bug once again and have taken up a too-good-to-resist price on a new set of JIC Coilovers. As such I have the following for sale: Front and Rear - KYB Shock Absorbers Front and Rear - Lowered King Springs (30mm) Currently at the mechanic and being removed from my R34 25GT Sedan (4 Door Love). Both shocks and springs have done approximately 5,000kms in it's N/A Life, and almost 15,000kms in its TurboCharged Life. No track work, daily driven with the occasionaly spirited drive. My mechanic tells me they're eyelets front and rear, and I've been told that these will also suit R33 GTS and R33 GTSt. I had a wheel allignment done bit over a week ago when fitting new tyres, and Fulcrum Suspension tell me that everythings in working order and no problems with the suspenion on there at the moment. I'm hoping that I can get $500.00 for the lot, pick up from Brisbane preferred, but I can post out at buyers cost or come to a deal. If anyone wants the shocks or springs separately, then I'm fine with that, so long as I have a deal to be able to sell them both. Pics will be up once I get the car back from the mechanics (getting a bit of other work done, hopefully will be able to post up pics within the next couple of days) Feel free to contact me by PM Cheers, Nathan

hahaha sorry but that made me laugh lol

I've got 30mm Lowered King Springs front and rear and KYB Shocks Front and Rear. Wanting to upgrade to coilovers pending a sale... done around 20,000kms in total, no track work just street driven. PM me a price if interested. I work in Coopers Plains, pretty much around the corner.

No one? Remember price is negotiable I’ve been told that the suspension set up should also be suitable for R33 GTS and R33 GTSt... you’ll need to verify this though.

Hey, I've got a set of 30mm Lowered King Springs on my R34 GT at the moment with KYB Shocks... are these suitable? My mechanic tells me they're eyelet type. Done approx 20,000km of street driving, no track work. A wheel allignment this week by Fulcrum confirms that suspension is all in working order. I'm keen to sell as my mechanics given me a hard to resist price on JIC Coilovers. I'd prefer to sell both the springs and shocks together but could consider separating. PM me if interested Cheers Nathan