CerealKiller

* UAS RB25 Plenum & Intercooler * 12 Psi * Standard ECU * Standard Turbocharger * Cat Back Exhaust * Pod Filter I doubt a PowerFC and tune can yield as much gain with just a cat back and pod...

That's a Blitz AC Racing gauge. Best gauge ever (I use them). Mechanical boost gauge.

bump

:werd: that was brilliant! top finish too

comes with an adapter. Not sure what though. I'll email pics to you.

yeah as above. I've been having some wiring issues and it disconnects the power to the s-afc causing my car to stall. Just wondering if this will cause me to lose settings as I just got it tuned less than a fortnight ago... Oh and for the dude that want the settings I'll post them here when I get the chance.

email address?

both are on sale again. $110 each. Both in good condition. No time wasters. In Sydney. Pics available on request. (keep all questions / bids in this thread please).

the wires on the Ford EL O2 sensor I bought doesn't take solder very well. The Nissan plug wires do. I got around it by using a male/female crimp connector. Crimped both sets of wires and join them together.

S15 rims certainly do fit on a R32 GTS-t.

I have no idea about the wiring. Adam from UAS did it and soldered the wire onto the loom (I'm assuming he did that as I saw him use a soldering iron). I'll take a look a the wiring tonight. Cubes - I'll get a scan up of the dyno chart tomorrow as I don't have a scanner at home. Car made 148.4rwkw on 0.8bar of boost.

it's not the fuel pump. The car stalls when stationary. As in it's been sitting at the lights for a while. I did read that thread but I'm very confident it's not... Anyway I'll give UAS a buzz and see what's happening.

buy a dump/front pipe and cat off BATMBL (For Sale section). I'm fairly sure it's cheaper than what the workshops will offer. You could then install it yourself or pay a mechanic for an hour of his time.

anyone got a direct link for the Nismo R34 around NUR?

I'm reading it off a HKS turbo timer. I've also used a mulitmeter for the readings, the TT is off by about 0.1-0.2V...

stock. My mods are: FMIC, exhaust, fuel pump.

talk to Dezert Eagle. He has a R33 series 1 but UAS put in a RB25 from a S2.

NAman - AVC-R stands for actuator valve controller type-r oRiCLe - a 60mm gauge fits in there. I've got one there. Attached is a really bad shot of my interior (it's really small as well). If I remember I'll take some photos of it tonight.

On Saturday I got my S-AFC2 tuned at UAS, mid range is a lot more responsive. All has been fine daily driving until last night. It stalled twice whilst sitting in traffic (yes it was out of gear). It also stalled last night when my turbo timer was counting down. Any one got any suggestions? I was thinking of making my idle a bit higher (currently around 700rpm) but I don't really want to do that. It could possibly be a bad batch of fuel as I filled up yesterday afternoon.

do the busstop is a reference to when "Alex" crashed his Skyline into a bus stop (I think that's correct).

It's easier to get big power from a big single turbo than to use two smaller ones. Also why are you aiming for so much power?

can't see why not

Police were just doing their job. There's no one else to blame but the driver - how he can live with the guilt of killing two of his mates and proceed in the riot is beyond me. A little off topic...I wonder what the reaction would've been like if it was a Skyline that crashed?

What voltage should I be getting in a R32 (RB20DET)? I believe it should be at least 14V but I rarely get 14V My last car got a healthy 14.4V. Mine struggles with electrical load. If I turn on the a/c + headlights it drops it down to about 13.3V, if I brake it'd drop down to 13V Any suggestions? I got my alternator replaced last year as it died, and I've got a 12 month warranty on it. Reckon it'd be worth getting it replaced?

My RB20 misfires randomly I pretty much drive like a granny (daily driver < 4,000rpm) and it occassionally misfires. Then after say 20 minutes of driving with 50% power (the misfire makes my car sound like a boxer engine) it's all good again. Do you guys reckon the araldite / electrical tape trick will sort my issues out? I've had UAS and Grey Imports both check my coils with nothing bad found...